wanderingrichard
Life of the Party
Ugh that's gonna cost a fortune to dispose of... they charged me $80. to dispose of a polyethylene kayak. Can't imagine what he'd be charged for an actual fiberglass boat.
Evan's boat projects: floor replacement
- Thread starter Evan B
- Start date
I disposed of a big fiberglass hull at the landfill a few years ago for $200. I know there's sometimes other deals for getting rid of junk boats but haven't paid too close attention.
wanderingrichard
Life of the Party
Back to track; if your pizza oven is any indicator, you're finished boat product is gonna be fantastic.
My pizza oven is in a similar state of "I'll get to it definitely at some point but not today"
wanderingrichard
Life of the Party
Ok.
What is MDO?
Chad D.
Smolt
Medium Density Overlay, if I remember correctly.
Think plywood, with a thin face and back of MDF (the good particle board). Commonly used for big signs. Also commonly used for boat floors by many manufacturers. Good solid stuff.
Cutting and fitting a piece of wood into a specific space is the hardest thing to do!
MDO is created using waterproof resin-impregnated fibers bonded under heat and pressure, creating a waterproof panel once sealed with paint, used as the go to for exterior signs. Very durable as a re-deck for boats.
and that was what I had intended to shop for. Unfortunately, neither my local Lowes nor Home Depot had real MDO. I found some by calling Mr. Plywood in Portland, but decided that the extra money probably wasn't worth it if I'm just sealing it off anyways.
Yes, MDO and Marine Plywood are both superior products to exterior-rated plywood, but my research indicates that the method in which I'm using thinned marine primer to penetrate and seal off the outer layers, then layering over that with the deck tread paint, I'll be good for a long while with it.
Thanks.
What's the advantage of the paint you are using to glassing it and gel-coating over it?
I assume that it is less time consuming and probably lighter. Will it be as durable as glass and gel-coat? Could you gel-coat over the primer?
I assume that it is less time consuming and probably lighter. Will it be as durable as glass and gel-coat? Could you gel-coat over the primer?
I do have everything to glass it, but I think this is going to just work better overall. One issue with glassing the floors is it adds bulk that can make it hard to account for when cutting the pieces. It's such a tight squeeze to fit these in to where they need to sit that I wouldn't want to bother with that. Overall, I don't see a huge advantage to going the glass route for this. Lots more work, heavier, harder to measure for, and end product isn't necessarily any better.
Also, what you see in the photo is just the primer. Once I get all the pieces primed (which seals them up), I will install them in the boat, add primer to each rivet that is holding it down to seal those up, then go over the top with Deck tread paint.
Here is what the floor surface will be once completed: https://www.totalboat.com/products/totaltread-non-skid-deck-paint
veilside180sx
Smolt
One thing I'm always concerned about with non-skid and fly lines is stepping on them against the grit. I'm prob going to use EVA on my elevated platforms when I rebuild them just for that reason. My floor is tread plate...so lines are done if they get stepped on it any way.
Your reasoning makes sense. I figured that the weight would be an issue. I dis not think about the measuring/ bulk.
I used either that product or a similar one before. I liked it. You seem to be doing it right.
The only other way to do something like this is with a plastic floor. They are pretty darned heavy and uber-expensive.
