Evan's boat projects: floor replacement

[Merle]

They look like solid rivets. I think they are driven in with an air hammer of some kind.

They are solid aluminum rivets, same as are used to build aircraft. They are traditionally installed using a process called "bucking", where you use a pneumatic hammer on the head side, and a heavy steel bar (the "bucking bar") on the tail. The vibration results in the bucking bar hammering down the tail so it gets wider.

On small parts they can also be formed using a pneumatic squeeze that has jaws that contact the head and tail of the rivet simultaneously. But on something big like a boat or airplane, the rivet gun and bucking bar are the only way to do it. On really big stuff you need two people, one on one side with the gun and a partner on the other side with the bucking bar.

I've installed a few 30+ years ago in a training class, it's actually not too tough, though there's a bit of a learning curve with the technique. It does make a nice tough joint.

 

[Evan B]

They are solid aluminum rivets, same as are used to build aircraft. They are traditionally installed using a process called "bucking", where you use a pneumatic hammer on the head side, and a heavy steel bar (the "bucking bar") on the tail. The vibration results in the bucking bar hammering down the tail so it gets wider.

On small parts they can also be formed using a pneumatic squeeze that has jaws that contact the head and tail of the rivet simultaneously. But on something big like a boat or airplane, the rivet gun and bucking bar are the only way to do it. On really big stuff you need two people, one on one side with the gun and a partner on the other side with the bucking bar.

I've installed a few 30+ years ago in a training class, it's actually not too tough, though there's a bit of a learning curve with the technique. It does make a nice tough joint.

As far as I can tell, they were just used for aesthetics. The rivets in the rest of the boat are all standard, but any that are exposed are done with these solid types.

I have a buddy who has a rivet tool, but it isn't awesome enough to do these types. I'm not too concerned about the aesthetics though. I will probably just re-do it with standard rivets.

 

[Salmo_g]

Evan,

I think solid rivets are quite a bit stronger than hollow, tubular pop rivets. So parts like the hull are likely fastened with solid rivets instead of pop rivets. I've never done any work with solid rivets, but using pop rivets is very straight forward. I think I bought a pop rivet tool for about $15.

 

[Evan B]

Evan,

I think solid rivets are quite a bit stronger than hollow, tubular pop rivets. So parts like the hull are likely fastened with solid rivets instead of pop rivets. I've never done any work with solid rivets, but using pop rivets is very straight forward. I think I bought a pop rivet tool for about $15.

These rivets aren't holding the hull together. They're just being used to hold that thin aluminum console thing on.

 

[Merle]

Evan,

I think solid rivets are quite a bit stronger than hollow, tubular pop rivets. So parts like the hull are likely fastened with solid rivets instead of pop rivets. I've never done any work with solid rivets, but using pop rivets is very straight forward. I think I bought a pop rivet tool for about $15.

Solid aluminum rivets are far superior structurally to pull type ("pop") rivets. When done right they are fluid tight, but where they really excel in in fatigue. A big deal in aircraft structures but also important on boat hulls I would think. I would be hesitant to replace solids with pull types on a structural joint or the hull exterior.

Honestly you could get a cheap air hammer and bucking bar at Harbor Freight and with your skills be up to speed on installing solid rivets pretty quickly. It's really prety easy if you have the right die for the hammer and a heavy enough bar.

 

[Evan B]

Solid aluminum rivets are far superior structurally to pull type ("pop") rivets. When done right they are fluid tight, but where they really excel in in fatigue. A big deal in aircraft structures but also important on boat hulls I would think. I would be hesitant to replace solids with pull types on a structural joint or the hull exterior.

Honestly you could get a cheap air hammer and bucking bar at Harbor Freight and with your skills be up to speed on installing solid rivets pretty quickly. It's really prety easy if you have the right die for the hammer and a heavy enough bar.

LIke I said, if these were actually holding together something critical, I'd be more hesitant. They're just holding on accessories basically.

 

[Evan B]

Also made a decision today: Going to ditch the Attwood gas tank and put in an in-floor permanent tank while I have the floors out. May as well

 

[Merle]

Going to ditch the Attwood gas tank and put in an in-floor permanent tank while I have the floors out.

That will be sweet... good call.

 

[Evan B]

That will be sweet... good call.

Yeah I'm excited about it. I only have like 5" of in-floor space, but I'm going to put it where the livewell used to be and rebuild the console that went around that. So the layout of the boat will be about the same as it was before. Just a gas tank instead of a livewell

 

[Evan B]

For being non essential, this thing had way too many things attaching it.

 

[Evan B]

Floor is officially out!

 

[Denwor54]

I love this stuff Evan the rivets are what we call button head fasteners. To replace those is not easy with out the right tools or the right person. A rivet gun and bucking bar are needed. Pull rivets are not hard to replace and you can go to harbor freight to get the tools for this process. I forgot to take pictures of the tools and fasteners, my bad and I will send pics of them this weekend. I wish I lived closer this would be fun to show you how to do this.

 

[Paige]

You dont want Dennis shooting rivets, hes an ok bucker but sucks with a rivet gun

 

[SurfnFish]

matching foam toadstools up front..

 

[Denwor54]

You dont want Dennis shooting rivets, hes an ok bucker but sucks with a rivet gun

Good point Brian maybe we should head down and help Evan out with this.

 

[albula]

For being non essential, this thing had way too many things attaching it.

View attachment 86901

Says something about a boat when you need a shovel to fix it.

 

[Kilchis]

can't tell what you're looking at actually. I see no black rectangles

 

[dep]

now is a great time to put in that 1000wt bluetooth stereo system.

 

[SurfnFish]

similar project, looks like the owner did it right

StarCraft 16 ft boat all aluminum. New floor - boats - by owner - marine sale - craigslist

SIGHT UNSEEN OFFER WILL NOT BE EXCEPTED. SEE IT FIRST. THEN LOW BALL ME!! This boat has a new marine plywood floor, new upholstery I’m selling the boat with title and trailer only. New floor. Title...

portland.craigslist.org

 

[veilside180sx]

similar project, looks like the owner did it right

StarCraft 16 ft boat all aluminum. New floor - boats - by owner - marine sale - craigslist

SIGHT UNSEEN OFFER WILL NOT BE EXCEPTED. SEE IT FIRST. THEN LOW BALL ME!! This boat has a new marine plywood floor, new upholstery I’m selling the boat with title and trailer only. New floor. Title...

portland.craigslist.org

There is things they did right…and things I would do different. (And am doing different…i have the same hull in a refit process)

Your’e doing fine Evan. Solid rivets are stronger & preferred below the water line. Pop rivets are totally fine above the water line, esp for accessories.

I moved to Boise area but if you decide you want to do solid rivets. I have a rivet gun & bucking bars I can ship you to use. If you can reach both sides…then you can do them alone…otherwise you need a buddy to hold the bucking bar.

I’m in the middle of replacing a dead wooden transom with an aluminum welded one. So I feel your pain.

When I did the first refit on this Starcraft I did an under the floor 12 gallon tank vs the stock 6 gallon at the transom. That did wonders to balance the boat better.