Coho jigs
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This is a problem. I combat the issue by using a high quality ball bearing swivel with a heavy wire clip. It facilitates quick changing to spinners or virtually any lure and allows me to still use braid as I disagree with Paige on the merits of mono and the bait caster. The sensitivity of braid and speed of the spinning reel is worth the hassle to me. Too light of braid can do this more readily as well. I do like the bait caster for the spinner or spoon though.
You're right, It sounds like something weird is happening. Are you closing the bail manually? Using a leader? Is it possible the braid was spooled with line twist? Too much line on the spool?
Technique wise try making smaller twitches, you might be throwing too much slack into the line.
Pink Nighty
Life of the Party
I've found with braid, especially lighter braid, that I need to slow my feeling down to allow the slack to be picked up. A little pause after you jig to allow the line to tighten a bit more makes a big difference. Also helps with the tip wrap.
I have similar things happen with the spin reel. The loop gets halfway around the top of the spool and I get hick ups in my cast.
I figured it was too vigorous of a twitch and too fast of reel when I was a little slack... also when I get a little excited.
The heavier swivel is a nice touch. Thx.
I figured it was too vigorous of a twitch and too fast of reel when I was a little slack... also when I get a little excited.
The heavier swivel is a nice touch. Thx.
This batch of a random assortment has been doing pretty well for me the last couple weeks:
I got in a fight with a bunch of chums the other day. The brutes just showed up and started biting. I was getting action, so I kept fishing, but after about an hour, they had broken off almost every jig I had.
Just because you can get a lot of it on your spool doesn't mean it's a great idea to use 8 lb. mono for salmon, but as long as the chums leave you alone, it usually does fine... At any rate, I can't stand using braid for much of anything besides bobber fishing, due to the aforementioned issues with tangles and tip wraps anytime you get slack in the system.
Just because you can get a lot of it on your spool doesn't mean it's a great idea to use 8 lb. mono for salmon, but as long as the chums leave you alone, it usually does fine... At any rate, I can't stand using braid for much of anything besides bobber fishing, due to the aforementioned issues with tangles and tip wraps anytime you get slack in the system.
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brownheron
corvus ossifragus
For twitiching, I'm in the short spinning rod w/ braid camp although I add a 10' bumper of 20lb Maxima or Seagaur Inviz flouro depending on the water and what's handy. I use the FG knot to join which has been a big plus for me.
I don't drop below 30lb braid due to bedding and tangles and prefer Suffix 832 after trying a lot of exotic expensive options although good ol' yellow PowerPro probabaly works 98% as good. Once I got used to slowing down and being smooth in my motions, I made a bit decrease in tip wrap incidents. Missed sets are about the only time I get a bad one these days, especially with springers as you have to really hit them hard with heavy terminal tackle.
If you bring your flyfishing mend technique, big fast movements to lift and move the flyline) to braid, you are going to get tip wrap all day.
My biggest problem with braid is when I throw a float all the way into a tree which seems to happen at least once a year. It's not easy to break 30lb braid wrapped around a springy tree limb and trying to do it from a moving boat in a rapid is about as fun as it sounds...
I don't drop below 30lb braid due to bedding and tangles and prefer Suffix 832 after trying a lot of exotic expensive options although good ol' yellow PowerPro probabaly works 98% as good. Once I got used to slowing down and being smooth in my motions, I made a bit decrease in tip wrap incidents. Missed sets are about the only time I get a bad one these days, especially with springers as you have to really hit them hard with heavy terminal tackle.
If you bring your flyfishing mend technique, big fast movements to lift and move the flyline) to braid, you are going to get tip wrap all day.
My biggest problem with braid is when I throw a float all the way into a tree which seems to happen at least once a year. It's not easy to break 30lb braid wrapped around a springy tree limb and trying to do it from a moving boat in a rapid is about as fun as it sounds...
Maybe I have line twist, but I actually looked up a U tube video for spooling a spinning reel because it had been a very long time since I last did it. And possibly too much line on the spool, but there is a lot less now. And I probably need to work on technique, since gear fishing isn't something I do a lot of.
Easiest way to generate line twist is trying to reel in line when a fish is running away. Can’t explain the physics, just learned the hard way.
This is probably one of the most important things I learned the other day. You need to use a med/hvy or heavy rod around 6'-7' for jigging. All I had was My 8'6" med steelhead drift rod and there was way too much tip flex to make those jigs pop. Lucky for me I have a 6'6" heavy bass rod in the closet that is getting dusted off.
singlehandjay
Life of the Party
When I used to twitch I used a Loomis 1021s and an old stradic with mono= money! A cold twitch from 10 to 11 on a clock. Tapping the reel to pick up slack. No bullshit snagging. They always picked up on the drop. a technique so deadly it shouldn't be legal. Damn those were fun days. Mostly just got packs of unpainted jig heads from cabelas in 3/8oz. Tie up and steal your wife's nail polish and hit the heads.
brownheron
corvus ossifragus
Yes, and having the weight of the reel below your twitching hand (fulcrum? pivot? point) and hanging from the bottom of the rod acts as a counterbalance to make the act of twitching easier.
Most commercial twitching rods are fast action 7'6" one piece models. I have one from Loomis, Edge, Lamiglas and a custom 2-piece. I like the custom best followed by the Loomis but I'm a gear nut. A guide friend uses a very inexpensive Okuma walleye jigging rod to great effect.
Paige
Wishing I was fishing the Sauk
You are still holding that weight, dont know how much difference a spinning reel below the rod vs bait caster above the rod would make. But I will take the control and accuracy of the level wind every day!
I assume you're using heavier jigs with the level wind? The guy who showed me jig fishing on the Cowlitz uses 1/4 oz jigs and a spinning outfit, so I've tried to do the same.
Everyone is different but I prefer my spinning reel for twitching. Here's why.
With the reel under the rod it gives stability to the rod during the twitch. A baitcaster sitting on top of the rod requires input by the fisherman to prevent the reels tendency to find equilibrium by rolling the rod over.
The angle of your wrist is also different. For twitching my grip on the rod feels more ergonomically relaxed (less twisted) with a spinning reel than a casting reel.
Short version, after twitching all day my arm feels less sore using a spinning reel than a baitcaster. YMMV.
With the reel under the rod it gives stability to the rod during the twitch. A baitcaster sitting on top of the rod requires input by the fisherman to prevent the reels tendency to find equilibrium by rolling the rod over.
The angle of your wrist is also different. For twitching my grip on the rod feels more ergonomically relaxed (less twisted) with a spinning reel than a casting reel.
Short version, after twitching all day my arm feels less sore using a spinning reel than a baitcaster. YMMV.
Paige
Wishing I was fishing the Sauk
I use 1/2 oz jigs 100% of the time, but am fishing from a boat and run n gun most of the time. If on foot in smaller water I co I ld see the need for lighter jigs.
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