2023 Garden Thread

ikankecil

Smolt
I'll be starting most of my pepper seads two weeks from now. My growing season is such that the varieties that take longer are going to push right up against the first frost in October so they need to be 6" tall before they go in the ground in late May to have any chance of really producing much I can use.
 

mcswny

Legend
Forum Supporter
I'll be starting most of my pepper seads two weeks from now. My growing season is such that the varieties that take longer are going to push right up against the first frost in October so they need to be 6" tall before they go in the ground in late May to have any chance of really producing much I can use.
No matter what I do, peppers are a plant that I always struggle with.
 

brownheron

corvus ossifragus
That looks a good deal like an R. sinogrande, a very slow grower that I have in a shady spot. I was told to expect a bloom once every 15 or 20 years if it really likes its location.

Yes, due to my bad photos, I can see where you might see that. However, I'm pretty confident that it's not a product of R. sinogrande. We have two of those and it's quite different. My guess is something much less interesting, probably from the decorative R. Loderi hybrids. They are some of the most mature on the property, very large and lots of flowers. There is also a decent size R. fortunei, one of the parent species of Loderi, growing pretty close and it looks similar too. It'll be fun to see how it matures.

Here's R. sinogrande - the leaves are very big with pronounced veins and tan tint to the underside. They burn really easy. This one is in a container and barely made it through last summer. I'm going to replant it in a shady spot in the forest.
r.sinogrande.jpg

Here's a better shot at the hybrid above. Very different structure and growth habit.
hybrid.jpg

There are a number of these naturally occurring hybrids across the property and they all look very similar. Almost all of them are also growing out of nurse logs which is pretty interesting. Here's a baby:

hybrid2.jpg
 

SteelHeadDave

Broskioner
Forum Supporter
Those are beautiful. I really want to figure it out, because I really want to make more hot sauces. Every year I get a bit closer though.
I’m on I think my third year of attempts at serious pepper growing and I’m learning a bunch. And by serious, I mean I set up a greenhouse almost exclusively for peppers and a few other miscellaneous things. I’ve grown only a few long season/heat loving plants from seed with any measurable success. One thing I’ve learned is that starting hot crops in a short growing season from seed is an art in itself and requires a tremendous amount of attention unless you have an automated system. Buying starts from a reputable grower is so much easier but the selection can be pretty limited unless you’re on top of your game and get the cool stuff early. You probably already know this but in my experience these things definitely help a lot - hard pruning of the starts, greenhouse growing, hand pollination (shaking of plants) and a good watering regiment are needed IMO, at least here on the wet side PNW. Hot sauces are fun. Hope you have success this year. 🤞
 

SteelHeadDave

Broskioner
Forum Supporter
I know it looks like I was cleaning my ears but this Qtip has been pollinating my (for the winter) indoor Meyer lemon tree. I noticed this lil bugger on the stick and took a photo.D8CEF102-E04C-4610-BFA9-6453B2402654.jpeg
Looks like I have some work to do before it becomes a bigger issue.
C41F3227-2A0A-46E6-AB39-04BEB30F52F2.jpeg
 
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Tallguy

Steelhead
My current problem is that my garden is being taken over by grass. It's crowding out all the winter greens and winter carrots I planted, and also slowing down the garlic alot too. Might have to cover the whole garden with plastic sheeting to kill it.
 

mcswny

Legend
Forum Supporter
My current problem is that my garden is being taken over by grass. It's crowding out all the winter greens and winter carrots I planted, and also slowing down the garlic alot too. Might have to cover the whole garden with plastic sheeting to kill it.

Look into Yellow Rattle. It strangles out grass rhizomes.

 

TicTokCroc

Sunkist and Sudafed
Forum Supporter
20230114_170431.jpg
Pepper seeds this week or next if I'm up to it, I think I might need to order a few more... Still have lifting restrictions and can't drive yet so that makes doing anything right now difficult but should be cleared to drive the 19th. I'm going batty with cabin fever.

Got my little order from Victory Seeds a few days ago.
20230114_121334.jpg
Also needing starting the next week or so, onions and artichokes. Unfortunately I can't find my stash of onion seeds so I may need to order again. Newberg storage onion is the one I plan to grow, from Adaptive seeds. Onions go outside in trays and naturally sprout when conditions are just right for them, no need for grow lights or taking up space inside. If it ever stops raining and drys out for a week, lots of tilling needs to be done so the peas can go in early.
 

Tallguy

Steelhead
Look into Yellow Rattle. It strangles out grass rhizomes.

But then what do you do with the Yellow Rattle after it kills off some grass? Do you weed it out? Have you tried this in a garden?

Interesting strategy, but don't want to replace one problem with another.
 

mcswny

Legend
Forum Supporter
But then what do you do with the Yellow Rattle after it kills off some grass? Do you weed it out? Have you tried this in a garden?

Interesting strategy, but don't want to replace one problem with another.
I haven’t, I just learned about it on a British gardening show: Gardners world
 

SteelHeadDave

Broskioner
Forum Supporter
Could you say more about pruning starts?
Sure. I generally “top” my starts once they’ve reached about a foot in height (depending on the variety). It seems like a really harsh thing to do but it promotes more growth from the nodes which will eventually turn into branches and thus more opportunity for higher yields. Un-pruned plants tend to be leggy which results in lower yields and tall lanky weak stemmed plants.

This website has a lot of good info on pepper growing:


Hope this helps,
Dave
 

cdnred

Life of the Party
Last year we planted our first garden since moving from a condo 2 years ago. We experienced squirrels (and other critters) eating some of our tomatoes once they ripen. Leading the wife to start picking the tomatoes while they were still slightly green then placing them on the inside windowsill to ripen. Talking with my neighbor, he says that if I was to plant onions like a fence around the garden it detracts squirrels from eating our veggies (?). Apprently squirrels find the odor of onions offensive enough to stay away. This spring I was thinking about planting the onion fence to see whether that might help. The only issue is that there is a wooden slat fence bordering two sides of the garden so I'm sure the squirrels may be able to find a work around to avoid the onions so maybe not that good of an idea. Have others found this to be of use for squirrel deterence..?

I know that another way is to just install a fence using rabbit wire but I rather not go that route plus onions could be considered as part of the garden. I don't really want to trap them (which might be the most positive solution) as a means of solving the problem. Has anyone else come up with any qwik ideas for solving this that's low maintenance and easy to install..?
 

brownheron

corvus ossifragus
Sure. I generally “top” my starts once they’ve reached about a foot in height (depending on the variety). It seems like a really harsh thing to do but it promotes more growth from the nodes which will eventually turn into branches and thus more opportunity for higher yields. Un-pruned plants tend to be leggy which results in lower yields and tall lanky weak stemmed plants.

This website has a lot of good info on pepper growing:


Hope this helps,
Dave
I learned about this via my bonsai hobby but it's pretty important for many forms of horticulture. It's related to the plant hormone auxin and its relationship to apical dominance. In some cases like the peppers above, you want to reduce apical dominance. In the early stage of bonsai, you often want to do the opposite as rapid growth of a central leader is a good way to build a thick tree-like trunk which you reduce to the desire height later aka 'grow and chop', especially on plants that readily backbud. From wikipedia:

An important principle of plant organization based upon auxin distribution is apical dominance, which means the auxin produced by the apical bud (or growing tip) diffuses (and is transported) downwards and inhibits the development of ulterior lateral bud growth, which would otherwise compete with the apical tip for light and nutrients. Removing the apical tip and its suppressively acting auxin allows the lower dormant lateral buds to develop, and the buds between the leaf stalk and stem produce new shoots which compete to become the lead growth. The process is actually quite complex because auxin transported downwards from the lead shoot tip has to interact with several other plant hormones (such as strigolactones or cytokinins) in the process on various positions along the growth axis in plant body to achieve this phenomenon. This plant behavior is used in pruning by horticulturists.
 
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