Do You Pretreat Your Dry Flies At The Tying Bench?

For years I have used some stuff called Watershed. Just a tiny bit on the fly and once it dries overnight it is ready to fish.

The Loon stuff called Lochsa is proving to be real good also, it is a fly treatment that can also be used on CDC. I don't wait until I need it, instead put in on the fly once it is tied. About a month ago I tied up 3 size 16 midge parachute patterns using fine grizzly for the hackle. I treated each one with the Loon product then tossed them in a glass of water to see how long it would take them to sink. Still floating high and dry weeks later.
Yeah, but that is a glass of still water. Tie one on and cast it out and the dirt you can't see will get on it and the current swirling around will add to the fly collecting junk,
 
Flyagra for sure. Easy to find and it works. Although I am hearing some interesting different ideas. Have also used loon lo has but it costs more. Always wanted to make my own flyagra but it sounds like there might be a flame involved in that situation. Probably not a good idea for me
 
How long does that type of pretreatment typically last? Does normal wear and tear (not to mention dirt and slime) degrade it?
 
I had an old bottle of watershed, the kind you squeeze to get some drops out, and the plastic got brittle and the bottle shattered in my hand, covering me and my work area with the silicone stuff. I never bought it again.
Ugh!
 
How long does that type of pretreatment typically last? Does normal wear and tear (not to mention dirt and slime) degrade it?
It lasts a long time, and even after it starts to wear off the exposed parts it helps keep dubbed flies' interiors from getting waterlogged, that effect lasts forever. Seems to work better on some flies than others, works great on Usuals. On the water, I really like the blown silica stuff like Frogs Fanny that you work in with a little brush. It works great on cdc and snowshoe wings.
 
If so, what are you currently using as they come off the tying bench?
I used to have a jar of liquid stuff, I believe Hydroblock was the name, from Dan Bailey's but it's now long gone but I think it really helped to extend the floatability.
I Scotchgarded my flies a couple times. First I learned if you just put them loose in a box and spray them, they’ll fly out. You have to tape them down or something like that. Ultimately I guess I decided it wasn’t worth it. I still had to apply normal floatant anyway, so it wasn’t worth the trouble.
 
Here's the permanent treatment from Sportsman's Warehouse I've been using. It helps to keep the bottle, the drying flies, and a pair tweezers in a dedicated Tupperware lined with paper towels.
View attachment 3179
View attachment 3180
Zak, I bought some of this yesterday and dunked some flies, boobies to be exact, to see if I can get them to float in a more horizontal orientation.
Test results pending.:unsure:
 
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How much difference is there between adding floatant at time of tying and placing the fly in a floatant bottle when on the water..? Just wondering is there's that much of a difference that instead it may be better to just wait and place the fly in the bottle at river's edge as needed..
 
How much difference is there between adding floatant at time of tying and placing the fly in a floatant bottle when on the water..? Just wondering is there's that much of a difference that instead it may be better to just wait and place the fly in the bottle at river's edge as needed..
The Loon Hydrostop label said to soak for five minutes and then dry overnight. The stuff I'm using from SW doesn't say soak for five minutes, but I still dry them overnight. Also, I wouldn't want to spill this stuff in a stream.
 
Zak, I bought some of this yesterday and dunked some flies, boobies to be exact, to see if I can get them to float in a more horizontal orientation.
Test results pending.:unsure:
Are you letting them dry thoroughly before the bucket test?
 
Are you letting them dry thoroughly before the bucket test?
Yup, overnight.
Edit: I haven't dunked them yet but they've been floating for a couple of hours after treating with the Mucilin.
IMG-5097.jpg
 
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The Loon Hydrostop label said to soak for five minutes and then dry overnight. The stuff I'm using from SW doesn't say soak for five minutes, but I still dry them overnight. Also, I wouldn't want to spill this stuff in a stream.
Rather then prep them at time of tying, it would be better then just to wait and prep your dries the night before they're used. Would be mich simplier and less time consuming..
 
Rather then prep them at time of tying, it would be better then just to wait and prep your dries the night before they're used. Would be mich simplier and less time consuming..
Not sure I understand. I've got a plastic box near my vise with the silicone bottle, tweezers and a paper towel. It doesn't take much time to dunk a few flies and put them on the paper towel to dry. And it's a pretty simple system.

But if putting the flies in a holding pen as you tie them until the night before you go fishing and then treating them all at once works better for you, go for it!
 
Not sure I understand. I've got a plastic box near my vise with the silicone bottle, tweezers and a paper towel. It doesn't take much time to dunk a few flies and put them on the paper towel to dry. And it's a pretty simple system.
No, I don't tie flies so I'm thinking your first suggestion of treating them the nite before would the simplest method for me. The flotation properties would last the same amount of time done either way..
 
No, I don't tie flies so I'm thinking your first suggestion of treating them the nite before would the simplest method for me. The flotation properties would last the same amount of time done either way..
The stuff I'm taking about is marketed as permanent waterproofing. I guess that still means the same amount of time either way.

Sorry, I'm just not following what you are saying. I don't remember suggesting treating the flies the night before a trip. But I can totally see the sense in buying a bunch of flies and treating them all at once.
 
The only pre-treatment of my flies is smashing the barb down with my vice before any materials go on the hook. I like my dry flies to be in the surface film so parachute style is preferred or part of the hackle is removed on the underside...
 
I don't pre-treat all, or even most, of my dries with the permanent stuff. But it works great for the Adirondack muddlers and Usuals that I use for dry dropper rigs.
 
The stuff I'm taking about is marketed as permanent waterproofing. I guess that still means the same amount of time either way.

Sorry, I'm just not following what you are saying. I don't remember suggesting treating the flies the night before a trip. But I can totally see the sense in buying a bunch of flies and treating them all at once.
We're just having a misunderstanding via the internet that's all..
 
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