And now a question about transom savers

Finally got this all rigged up. It feels super solid. I like it. I trailered it home commando style (no transom saver) last weekend and didn’t like all the shaking I saw going on back there.
Do people use transom savers on small manual tilt motors?

Kinda seems not necessary.
FWIW there’s a big sticker on it that says it is for power tilt/power trim motors. But whatever. I want it and am glad to have it.

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Matt, that prop looks kinda' gnarly, like it's chewed on a lot of gravel. Maybe time to take a file to it and smooth it out, but keep it balanced.
 
I'm considering a transom saver type device for my 16'9 RH Boats hull and 60hp Merc. Did some some searches on the net; folks are all over the place on the topic. Found this article helpful and balanced.

I think I'm going with a wedge like this
 
I finally figured I better get a rubber wedge type for my single ram tilt Mercury 50. Well, don't get this one if you have a Merc 40,50,60. It's the perfect shape to get jammed into the upper piston bracket. :( I had to use a damn 2x4 to pry the thing out.

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So I threw that away and will give the Mangrove Products one a try since they specifically mention the Merc 40-60 in their fitment guide.
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I'll let you know if it fits.
 
Well, in this case, it's really not even a transom saver. The wedges/bumps are really just to keep the motor from coming down. It's more of a tilt/trim unit and skeg saver. 😁

However, I think having the motor up, with the weight of the upper unit directly over the transom or even ahead of the transom, balanced with the lower unit, is probably best for the transom. Not as much wagging back and forth on our crappy concrete highways.
Probably less wag if the motor is straight down, but then you're going to drag it.

I think my Lowe transom is fine. My Valco was another story. The 25 2-stroke was probably a bit heavy for it even though it was within (at max) the HP rating. I had the true bolted to the trailer style transom saver on that one. But I always wondered if that sort of pressure on your lower unit is bad. And, the fact my anchor point was the trailer means if the trailer and boat are moving independently from a bad bump or loose tie-downs then that could put more pressure on the transom (and lower unit) than not having one.

I saw a Bayliner cruising along I90 east going up the hill there in Factoria. The concrete was terrible back then and the boat was bouncing hard. The 9.9 kicker was bouncing so hard it ripped off and skidded across the freeway in front of me. Bad day. Probably hard to put a saver on a kicker, but I had the same thing almost happen with a 9.9 on my old 12' boat when the saver came un-bungeed.

This is one of those old arguments that will never be solved unless somebody like Myth Busters does a show on it. :ROFLMAO:
 
I saw a Bayliner cruising along I90 east going up the hill there in Factoria. The concrete was terrible back then
It still is! Especially in the lane to the right of the HOV and passing lanes! It’s like concrete dunes out there and the right/wrong axel distance, speed and shocks combo can be downright scary.
 
Well, in this case, it's really not even a transom saver. The wedges/bumps are really just to keep the motor from coming down. It's more of a tilt/trim unit and skeg saver. 😁

However, I think having the motor up, with the weight of the upper unit directly over the transom or even ahead of the transom, balanced with the lower unit, is probably best for the transom. Not as much wagging back and forth on our crappy concrete highways.
Probably less wag if the motor is straight down, but then you're going to drag it.

I think my Lowe transom is fine. My Valco was another story. The 25 2-stroke was probably a bit heavy for it even though it was within (at max) the HP rating. I had the true bolted to the trailer style transom saver on that one. But I always wondered if that sort of pressure on your lower unit is bad. And, the fact my anchor point was the trailer means if the trailer and boat are moving independently from a bad bump or loose tie-downs then that could put more pressure on the transom (and lower unit) than not having one.

I saw a Bayliner cruising along I90 east going up the hill there in Factoria. The concrete was terrible back then and the boat was bouncing hard. The 9.9 kicker was bouncing so hard it ripped off and skidded across the freeway in front of me. Bad day. Probably hard to put a saver on a kicker, but I had the same thing almost happen with a 9.9 on my old 12' boat when the saver came un-bungeed.

This is one of those old arguments that will never be solved unless somebody like Myth Busters does a show on it. :ROFLMAO:
Your thoughts on the transom saver regarding the negative effect on your lower unit are correct.
In the last 15 years or so hauling and delivering new and used boats from dealers and manufacturers especially, it became verboten to use transom savers as the kinetic energy generated by the trailer axle impacting a road defect is transmitted directly to the lower unit through the T/S.
Transoms are so much stronger now than back last century that at the most all you need is one, or a pair of these to protect your lower unit if you have PTT. Hard rubber slid over the piston shaft. Presto. Simple.
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Manufacturers have also overcome the inherent issue of brackets/transom issues which contributed to some lost highway!, and also water, motors in the past. Not Pretty!
Yamaha went to a single cylinder PTT on most mid range 150/300 hp motors, and recently an all electric, no hydraulic cylinder setup to keep the lower unit raised for clearance. It took a little engineering know how magic to make them secure for distant travel but no issues.
BTW, I haven’t seen a boat with a kicker on it in 20 years in the SE. I know there’s a comfort factor so there’s that. Power units are so much more reliable now than during the transition time from 2 stroke to 4 stroke and prior. Enjoy your vessel, be safe, and follow both rules of the road, wet and paved, while recreating.
Wear a PFD!
 
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