I've had too many strikes on a swivel, and on split shot on the river, over the years. No go anymore. I really am getting to like using rings and weighted flies.
Stillwater indicator watchers: What's your approach?
- Thread starter Matt B
- Start date
I have used swivels in the way you describe during a hot multi-depth chironomid bite where I have moved the depth around and still kept getting takedowns and no hookup. I got rid of the swivel and that stopped happening. Additionally, when I am struggling to get bites (like yesterday), I don't want to potentially miss that chance because of a swivel when I don't need a swivel. That could be my only bite of the day, or could be a really big fish. If I don't need to introduce that variable, I'd rather not. That's why I don't use swivels anymore in my indicator rigs. I am very pro-swivel when I fish a Dick Nite on a sinktip in rivers.
I'm in need of some more indicators, so I was checking what I'd picked up from sportmans and blue mtn. angler. As I recall many felt floats unlimited was a good source. What do you think?
Also, I tend to prefer the .87" length, but also use the 1". What is the most common size others are using on washington lakes?
I don't know when I set this up but the UG section where I attach the float is 15# .015 UG. It cast well but I would like to go lighter. What are most people using, 8#? Sure a lot of sets after a weekend of bobber adjusting.
Also, I tend to prefer the .87" length, but also use the 1". What is the most common size others are using on washington lakes?
I don't know when I set this up but the UG section where I attach the float is 15# .015 UG. It cast well but I would like to go lighter. What are most people using, 8#? Sure a lot of sets after a weekend of bobber adjusting.
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I mostly use the 1”ers from there.
I drilled out some stopper pegs this weekend. I don’t have a drill press or even a vise so I used some channel-locks and my DeWalt. It wasn’t super great. There are two styles of peg in the same package, and the shorter fatter ones work better to drill out than the longer ones. I tried to salvage some longer ones by using my angle grinder to shorten them, and sand them a bit. The result is...meh.
Thx. I didn't know they didn't come predrilled. I have several pegs with holes, the foam either got destroyed or eventually the hole gets too big.
The pegs are pre drilled but the hole is narrow and hard to fit a surgeons knot through. So some of us like to widen them to pass a knot through.
Sometimes they do come with some plastic debris still blocking the hole though, kind of like cement blocking a hook eye.
The last time I ordered from floats unlimited I bought 1.25” fluorescent red/white and will buy them again. Even with a 4 weight they cast well and on my really deep indicator rigs they suspend a couple of big tungsten bead patterns and 30’ of leader. One size for everything.
My maxima UG indicator leaders are mainly either 6 or 8lb with a short butt section of 12lb. the thinner stuff sinks quickly and it’s plenty strong.
When drilling those pegs out use a very low speed drill motor. Also, retract the drill many times to let it cool and don't try to do it all at once. If the drill's friction causes the plastic to reach it's melting point you are done, only a molten ball will result.
I guess it's time to post my "Swivelmid" again....good luck if they try messin' with this one.
Bambooflyguy
Life of the Party
I use small white glass beads instead of metal so I use a swivel for weight. Who cares if I get a swivel bite....I just like watching the indicator go down! And really.....nice excuse for not hooking a fish that actually hit your fly! I wish I was expert enough to tell the difference......
No expert here, I just deduced from experimentation that the swivel seemed to be the culprit. See above. I don’t personally like seeing the indicator go down without hooking a fish, different strokes!
Bambooflyguy
Life of the Party
I’m just saying on slow days....I’ll take any kind of action! Also not an expert like some......
I don't get this anti swivel thing either.
I often use a smallest swivel for a connection between a heavy main leader and my tippet and typically run 30 to 36 inches of leader to my first fly and 18 to 24 inches to the bottom fly. By using my two-rod endorsement and two flies on each outfit and can prospect different depths, flies, etc. If I think the fish are taking my swivel that provides me information that I'm fishing too deep and a simple adjustment in my depth presentation converts those take downs become fish to hand. If the depth change does not result in fish then it is likely my fly size or color is off and an adjustment to some more swivel size/color is the next change.
The chironomid game is one based on information and I believe collecting my information any way I can include that "dreaded swivel" bite!
Curt
I often use a smallest swivel for a connection between a heavy main leader and my tippet and typically run 30 to 36 inches of leader to my first fly and 18 to 24 inches to the bottom fly. By using my two-rod endorsement and two flies on each outfit and can prospect different depths, flies, etc. If I think the fish are taking my swivel that provides me information that I'm fishing too deep and a simple adjustment in my depth presentation converts those take downs become fish to hand. If the depth change does not result in fish then it is likely my fly size or color is off and an adjustment to some more swivel size/color is the next change.
The chironomid game is one based on information and I believe collecting my information any way I can include that "dreaded swivel" bite!
Curt
I think we’ve gone over the swivel thing pretty well here. Some people like them and don’t care if they miss fish because of them. Some people don’t like to miss fish because of them and they don’t need them. The thread was originally about, do the flies get down without extra weight? Survey says, Yes! Especially with tungsten. Swivel or split shot are not needed. So I ain’t using them in my indicator rigs.
The great swivel debate of 22. Haha. For the record...I don't use a swivel. I usually have 2 flies, both weighted, most often with a tungsten bead.
Just a note about leaders...I don't use a swivel.
Ok, I'll be serious...I used some 6lb fluoro the last time out and really liked it. It was the affordable P-Line CFX that you can get just about anywhere. Many good-sized, hard fighting fish on the same fly with no re-tie. It is definitely tougher than nylon Rio 3x. All the qualities of fluoro, of course. I can tie any knot just fine with it. I think it's my new favorite leader.
I started using it only because I ran out of 3x Rio and had broken 4x on a big fish when he scraped me on the bottom. I happened to still have the CFX in the boat from a saltwater trip. Glad I had it in there!
Just a note about leaders...I don't use a swivel.
Ok, I'll be serious...I used some 6lb fluoro the last time out and really liked it. It was the affordable P-Line CFX that you can get just about anywhere. Many good-sized, hard fighting fish on the same fly with no re-tie. It is definitely tougher than nylon Rio 3x. All the qualities of fluoro, of course. I can tie any knot just fine with it. I think it's my new favorite leader.
I started using it only because I ran out of 3x Rio and had broken 4x on a big fish when he scraped me on the bottom. I happened to still have the CFX in the boat from a saltwater trip. Glad I had it in there!
I'm at the end of my first spool of 6# testThe great swivel debate of 22. Haha. For the record...I don't use a swivel. I usually have 2 flies, both weighted, most often with a tungsten bead.
Just a note about leaders...I don't use a swivel.
Ok, I'll be serious...I used some 6lb fluoro the last time out and really liked it. It was the affordable P-Line CFX that you can get just about anywhere. Many good-sized, hard fighting fish on the same fly with no re-tie. It is definitely tougher than nylon Rio 3x. All the qualities of fluoro, of course. I can tie any knot just fine with it. I think it's my new favorite leader.
I started using it only because I ran out of 3x Rio and had broken 4x on a big fish when he scraped me on the bottom. I happened to still have the CFX in the boat from a saltwater trip. Glad I had it in there!
P-Line CFX and concur with your findings.
They are okay in the river, but I like oblong indicators in stillwater to better reveal those light takes. I actually like the indicator to sit a little bit on its side, ideally. It's usually easy to see when the indicator goes down for a strong take, but if a fish takes and creates some slack, if the indi is partly on its side, when the slack forms below the indi, the indi will move.
Better than a Thingamabobber when it comes to adjustment, just don't drop the nut.
The new kid on the block is the Oros indicator.
All three have their place in moving water but the downside in stillwater is that they don't 'slip' if you're fishing depths greater than 10' which make it harder to land fish.
IMO, the slip indicators are the better choice in stillwaters.
Flybox1
Steelhead
^^^ will work if youre in water shallower than the length of your rod.
I use these, and just glue the slots.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BD571Y4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
