Rod differences

[Dustin Chromers]

Buy a good rod and a great line as stated above.

Is there a particular rod you are looking at. There are dogs and gems at all price points.

 

[Scslat]

Enough said...

This pretty much nails it. Almost all of my rods are USA-made. I like the finish and the way they fish, and I like buying American (I know, the economic benefits are complicated...) so I'm willing to pay more for that. But they were primarily purchased because I like how they fish. They just fit me, and I've fished long enough to know what I like.

Most of my go-to rods are more than five years old, and some are over 30 years old. So my average purchase price is probably around $400. I've only used warranties twice in my life because when I buy a rod that I really like, I'm pretty careful with it. Besides, after a few years, you usually can't get an identical replacement anyway since manufacturing methods change.

As others have said, learn to cast and change rods as you get your groove. The new rod may be more or less expensive. Over time, you'll almost certainly start to appreciate the fine craftsmanship and beautiful looks of some of the more expensive rods. But they won't necessarily improve your fishing.

 

[jaredoconnor]

It is often worth paying more for novel or niche fly rods, because that’s an area where the extra R&D cost actually has an impact.

I don’t believe it is worth paying premium prices for common rods, such as a 9ft 5wt trout rod. Such rods have not meaningfully improved in performance in over a decade. There are many $200 rods that will fish just as well as a $1,000 flagship rod. The only difference is finish and marketing.

I think the same more or less applies to fly lines.

 

[Stimson]

I've never even picked up a $1000 rod. I'm on the same page as skyriver. I own several g loomis signature rods, including a 9' 4wt and 9' 5wt. Both are excellent rods, even at 30+ years old. Both are still used today. Fantastic dry fly rods. I fish an old school SA type 3 sinking line on a 9' 6wt imx rod and can dam near still throw the entire fly line with 5" strip leech. Newer, more expensive rods are probably really nice, but I rely on picking the right line for the rod, and improving my casting ability. I'll take a frisbee and toss it out onto my lawn, and practice casting to hit the frisbee from around 40'. That practice alone has made me an excellent spot caster, and it paid off when in Florida casting to within a foot of mangrove bushes trying to catch snook and baby tarpon. If you've got to have the latest, greatest to keep up with your buddies, I get it. Realistically a decent rod, with the right line for the type of fishing you're gonna do, and a whole lotta practice, along with the money saved, will put a big smile on your face.

 

[Stimson]

I'll add an additional note- clean your line! When is the last time you stripped your line off your reel and not only got all of the kinks/ twists out of the line, and used a line cleaner? There are several available. I use "glide". It's been around for years, and there might be better, but it's what I use.

 

[Mike Bacca]

I'll add an additional note- clean your line! When is the last time you stripped your line off your reel and not only got all of the kinks/ twists out of the line, and used a line cleaner? There are several available. I use "glide". It's been around for years, and there might be better, but it's what I use.

Yup, I do this once a month in the summer and make sure they are clean and ready for next time fishing.

 

[G_Smolt]

Lots of good advice re:lines and golf clubs, and a few stabs at what separates a cheap rod from and expensive rod (maybe there was something in that KG video, but he's kinda long winded so I didn't watch more than 30 seconds ), but I'll add my 2 cents (adjusted for inflation)...

Generally speaking, expensive rods have a high level of fit and finish, as well as premium components. No excess thread/wraps, minimal amounts of thread finish, proper ferrule checks, high-quality and well-fit cork, low-tolerance seat parts...while all if these things make for good aesthetics, the wraps and finish can also affect the bend/casting properties of the fishpole - too much epoxy / excess thread wraps serve to dampen the rod by adding weight and "flat spots", or places the rod now doesn't bend...

Another general observation is higher-priced rods usually have higher-quality graphite, and higher-quality graphite requires less material which means less weight. Less weight (typically) allows for faster damping, and faster damping means less energy lost while casting.

I've noticed a tendency for some cheaper rods to have moderate-to-severe torsional deflection issues, or the inability to track "true" - this can also be exacerbated by bad techinique, but (once again) generally speaking, I haven't seen that issue in rods with more thought and care put into the individual build - and there are some relatively cheap rods out there which track very well.

One of my general takeaways after decades in the industry is 95% of the flycasting population will never be able to cast a representative "inexpensive" (<$250) flyrod past its full potential. It behooves you to buy a cheap flypole (and cheap flystring, don't get me started on that issue) and as other have already observed, spend the rest on a flycasting instructor who can give you the proper foundation for success.

 

[TJAK]

Appreciate all the feedback. I plan to target redfish and summer steelhead. It would be cool if I could find a rod that could handle both. I like the concept of switch rod. Tracking finding the best lines for each as well as getting training/practice on casting. Thanks.

 

[wmelton]

Appreciate all the feedback. I plan to target redfish and summer steelhead. It would be cool if I could find a rod that could handle both. I like the concept of switch rod. Tracking finding the best lines for each as well as getting training/practice on casting. Thanks.

I wouldn't target redfish with a switch rod. If you want something for both go with a 9' 8wt single hander.

 

[Nooksack Mac]

Perhaps the parameter I care the most about in a fly/spey rod is one that's hardest to find without casting that rod: the action. We all have different preferences in actions, and one of the biggest problems we have as buyers is finding out what a rod's action is - short of buying it. Rod marketers are often remiss in describing their actions, or inclined to describe their rods as fast, even if they aren't.

I favor an action that's medium or medium-slow, with all lines. And if it's fast on the rebound, so much the better. If it's one of the rare ones that bends into the corks, that's too slow for me.

A passing thought: we sometimes get to experience the delightful stimulation of a fighting fish. For us steelheaders, that can be a rare experience. But we get to feel something good on every cast, if the rod's action is the kind we like.

 

[clarkman]

Generally speaking, expensive rods have a high level of fit and finish, as well as premium components. No excess thread/wraps, minimal amounts of thread finish, proper ferrule checks, high-quality and well-fit cork, low-tolerance seat parts...while all if these things make for good aesthetics, the wraps and finish can also affect the bend/casting properties of the fishpole - too much epoxy / excess thread wraps serve to dampen the rod by adding weight and "flat spots", or places the rod now doesn't bend...

Whelp, I guess my NFC Iconoglass 8wt started by me, and finished by my friend, @PhilR would qualify...perhaps not all that expensive, but maybe high-end given this definition....

I like this game.