The interwebs are divided on cutting them off. Thoughts?
Factory Loops?
- Thread starter Spfd Jason
- Start date
Divad
Whitefish
No problems on factory loops for my SA 7wt and 8wt lines I use in the salt for chum and tidewater kings. All my polyleaders get the exposed core portion cut off and new loops formed. I also carry with me everything to whip a new loop into a line on the water if ever needed.
Need to see one break first to lose confidence in the factory ones, at least for the SA lines I use.
Need to see one break first to lose confidence in the factory ones, at least for the SA lines I use.
DimeBrite
Saltwater fly fisherman
Replacing a fly line loop depends on what species you are targeting and the exact fly line you are using. For example, I would reinforce or replace the fly line loops for RIO lines when fishing for large GT, but not bother doing it if using AirFlo lines (stronger). Replacing factory loops is not necessary for our local PNW fishing.
Replacing or reinforcing factory loops is very smart when targeting billfish, dogtooth tuna, big Napoleon wrasse, yellowfin/bluefin tuna, shark, etc.
If in doubt, just add a couple 8 turn nail knots with 30 pound braid to the factory loop. Use a 100 pound core fly line (SA) for crazy strong fish living near coral. Hollow braid (30-50 lb waxed) can be slid over the fly line to make super strong, but bulky reinforced loops.
Replacing or reinforcing factory loops is very smart when targeting billfish, dogtooth tuna, big Napoleon wrasse, yellowfin/bluefin tuna, shark, etc.
If in doubt, just add a couple 8 turn nail knots with 30 pound braid to the factory loop. Use a 100 pound core fly line (SA) for crazy strong fish living near coral. Hollow braid (30-50 lb waxed) can be slid over the fly line to make super strong, but bulky reinforced loops.
flybill
Life of the Party
The intraweb is wrong.. check them periodically and replace if necessary or see if the line is still under warranty!
1. Leave on until the coating completely breaks off after a few hundred sessions.
2. Nail knot some heavy mono onto the fly line, tie a loop in the end of the mono.
3. Resume fishing unless you left the mono at home, in which case you pack up, browse the forums, and weigh in on what to do with factory loops in a forum poll.
2. Nail knot some heavy mono onto the fly line, tie a loop in the end of the mono.
3. Resume fishing unless you left the mono at home, in which case you pack up, browse the forums, and weigh in on what to do with factory loops in a forum poll.
The only loops I leave in place are those that will be looped to other fly line or braided #30 backing. That one that gets the leader attached is immediately snipped off and the leader nail knotted on. That's the one that gets the most abuse and fails - usually when you don't want it to.
Thanks for the replies fellas. Not going to worry about the new factory loops on the saltwater lines until there is a story!
What is your opinion on the Cortland 50+ core lines? I purchased the GT and Heavy Sink lines. Stronger than RIO factory loops? Thanks.
DimeBrite
Saltwater fly fisherman
I've not used those fly lines, but the guide companies in the Seychelles use Cortland fly lines (they sell them in their small shops to clients).
DimeBrite
Saltwater fly fisherman
They do cut off and replace RIO GT Elite loops.
