How to Make a Loop in Fly Line, Polyleader, or Versileader

[Divad]

Figured I’d share a step-by-step on how I whip up strong loops in various line materials. Works on fly line, polyleaders, versileaders, intermediate etc. This was taught to me by Bjorn at The Fly Fisher.

The most important material needed is 100d GSP (Gel Spun Poly) and a bobbin. Normal thread is not of adequate strength and will rot. 100d GSP is thin enough to bite into the line without severing it.

1.) Wrap the GSP a couple times around one of the legs of the bobbin. This is a crucial step and depending on your bobbin pressure may require more or less, but I suggest 1-3.


2.) Cut the end of whatever you’re looping at a 45 degree angle.


3.) Fold back about 1-1.5in making a loop, you can always cut some off during the process but you cannot add more.


4.) Pull a few inches off the bobbin and lay it on the loop, pinching the GSP tag and loop.


5.) Then wrap 2-3 times around the loop keeping tight pressure and pinch both the wraps and the excess GSP tag.


6.) Now the part where those bobbin wraps come in play. You’re going to pull a couple inches off your bobbin and let it dangle, still pinching the GSP tag and wraps with your finger. With your other hand you’ll pinch the loop right up next to the first couple wraps.

With your thumbnails acting as guides you’re going to swing the bobbin around the loop 5-6 times slowly rolling your thumbnail guide down the loop working towards the cut off bit of fly line.


7.) Stop the swinging and pull tight on the bobbin pinching the wraps with your other hand to allow the thread to bite every 5-6 swung wraps.

7.5) Repeat steps 6 & 7 until you reach 3/4 of the way down the loop. Cut the GSP tag off.


8.) Repeat steps 6 & 7 until you pass the cut end of fly line by 1/8-1/4in. It helps if you can form a ramp of thread at the fly line cut end. Then work back up the loop repeating steps 6 & 7. (Ignore the razor until the end of step 9.)


9.) Now whip finish (or half hitch, whip is much stronger for slippery GSP) and cut your thread short.


10.) Coat wraps with superglue (stiffer but stronger), UV Knot Sense (flexible, a little less strength) or AquaSeal (flexible, long cure).

The thread wraps do 90% of the job if done correctly, biting into the line. I’ve used this method without glue on stream-side repairs. The glue helps protect the thread and provide additional strength.

 

[Divad]

Voila!

Tip: on step 6 if your bobbin is flying away when swinging add more wraps to your bobbin leg. If it’s binding up to the fly line and not spooling thread, take away a leg wrap.

 

[PhilR]

That spinny trick is pretty slick

 

[Pink Nighty]

That is awesome, thank you! If I may ask, why do the flipping of the bobbin trick instead of capturing the loop in the vise and wrapping from there? Outside of chicks not digging it nearly as much

 

[Shad]

This is how I do it. Same guy taught me.

Nice tutorial!

 

[Sagebrush]

Is this the same as using a nail knot tool?

 

[jaredoconnor]

I use a heat gun and shrink wrap. Haven’t had a welded loop fail yet, but I’ve often wondered if thread wraps would be stronger.

 

[clarkman]

I use a heat gun and shrink wrap. Haven’t had a welded loop fail yet, but I’ve often wondered if thread wraps would be stronger.

That's what I do too, but it doesn't work at all with Rio lines (go figure) & works VERY well with Airflo lines.

 

[Tom Butler]

Thank you for posting this. Been happy since I cut these slip on loops off a couple sinking lines, I think I'll do the floaters that way this winter. Never have cared for them but I like having a loop on certain lines.

 

[Divad]

@Pink Nighty haha dig it until you hit yourself in the to stop the spin (might have done that once…) I use my stomach to stop it and do it standing. But to answer your question I think the vise you’d struggle keeping the fly line taught with consistent tension on the gel spun. This method keeps tension throughout the process and doesn’t damage the fly line.

@Sagebrush no because the nail knot method is what 10 wraps or so? This method bites harder throughout the wraps whereas the nail knot relies on tension after sliding it off. Plus you can build a thread ramp on this method and cover a lot more of the loop than with a nail knot.

 

[kmudgn]

or this:
Amazon product ASIN B001T6QI3W
I have been using similar products for decades. Never had one release. The only tip I would add is to put a drop of superglue after you slip it on

 

[O' Clarkii Stomias]

View attachment 81657
Voila!

Tip: on step 6 if your bobbin is flying away when swinging add more wraps to your bobbin leg. If it’s binding up to the fly line and not spooling thread, take away a leg wrap.

If you want a smaller loop, ie: the ass end of a Skagit or scandi head, strip off enough of the coating and use the Dacron core folded over itself to form your loop. I just found an old, +25 year old Windcutter that I did this to. The loops whipped with mono floss, we didn't have GSP back then, were still solid though the Aquaseal coating was toast.

 

[O' Clarkii Stomias]

or this:
Amazon product ASIN B001T6QI3W
I have been using similar products for decades. Never had one release. The only tip I would add is to put a drop of superglue after you slip it on

Or you can make your own.

 

[jaredoconnor]

I wish fly line companies would weld tippet rings into both ends. It’s a superior way to connect both backing and leaders.

I once used a needle nail knot, to attach a piece of 20lb Chameleon to the end of my fly line. I then used a clinch knot, to tie a tippet ring to that. Functionally, it was fine. However, that 1 inch of Chameleon got a bit disfigured, after a few months, and I didn’t like the way it looked. I wish there was a knot that drew in the line, as it tightened, rather than the tag. That would enable me to have the tippet ring right up against the end of the fly line. I haven’t been able to find such a knot, though.