What's in your vise?

[Norm Frechette]

Gadabout Special

Atlantic Salmon

Hook – Gamakatsu T10-6H or equivalent
Thread - Black
Tip - Fine silver wire
Tail - Grizzly hackle barbs
Butt - Fluorescent orange floss ribbed with fine silver wire
Ribbing - Oval silver tinsel
Body - Dark olive floss
Wing - Gray squirrel tail tied low over the body
Hackle - Olive tied on as a collar and tied back

Fish Flies: The Encyclopedia of the Fly Tier's Art - Terry Hellekson

 

[Scottp]

Grey Drake Spinner

hook - WFC Model 3 #12
thread - Uni 6/0 camel
tail/underbody - moose body hair
rib - tying thread
body - deer hair
wing - Congo Hair shiner tan
hackle - grizzly
shoulder - pheasant rump

Regards,
Scott

 

[EmergingFisher]

Emerger

 

[joefromchicago]

I have that book.

I know when I first took up fly tying, I found that when I made the first couple of wraps loosely, then followed with tighter wraps…two things happened - one the looser wraps became looser and two the materials pulled out.
I corrected that, by making my first two wraps as tight as possible, to secure the materials…any wraps after that were window dressing used to form a nice shaped head.
I use that technique also to help deer hair wings lay down somewhat…for stimulators especially (but also do that with some dubbing as well wrapping rearward).
‘Bout the only time I take a couple of loose wraps first, is if I am doing a cinching technique.

Thanks for sharing that page number…I’ll have to look it up.

I liked their use of the word "moderate" as opposed to "loose" and the tip that these wraps are done on the part of the feather with barbules still attached. Tying in the stem only can be problematic as stems are very hard and slick and can pull out fairly easily even with tight wraps. The point I was trying to make was tight wraps next to a built-up body tends to tip the downwing up. I know this from tying a lot of crappy flies when I began.

 

[FinLuver]

I liked their use of the word "moderate" as opposed to "loose" and the tip that these wraps are done on the part of the feather with barbules still attached. Tying in the stem only can be problematic as stems are very hard and slick and can pull out fairly easily even with tight wraps. The point I was trying to make was tight wraps next to a built-up body tends to tip the downwing up. I know this from tying a lot of crappy flies when I began.

———————————————
I hear ya, this wing was a bugger to lay down…

 

[Billy]

 

[Oliver1329]

View attachment 14383

Is that cork? premade or did you cut it yourself? If so how do you cut it and thread it on the hook?

 

[Billy]

Is that cork? premade or did you cut it yourself? If so how do you cut it and thread it on the hook?

That particular one is a pre-made head. Brain Dead Popper.

 

[mtskibum16]

Bit shorter version with less pink.

 

[Norm Frechette]

Benn's Coachman

Steelhead

Hook - Gamakatsu T10-6H or equivalent
Thread - Black.
Tail - Crimson red hackle barbs
Ribbing - Gold wire, counter wrapped
Body - Peacock herl
Throat - Brown hen hackle
Wing - Red over white calf tail
Coat head with uv resin

John S. Benn of San Francisco, California, originated this pattern in the late 1800s. The original pattern had red and white goose quill sections for the wings.

Fish Flies: The Encyclopedia of the Fly Tier's Art - Terry Hellekson

 

[Scottp]

SLS Softhackle Spundun

A few modifications to Craig Mathews’ Sparkle Dun.

hook - WFC Model 3 #12
thread - UTC 140 wood duck
shuck - FTD shuck yarn Amber
body - tying thread
thorax - Zelon Dubbing SLS
wing - deer hair
shoulder - partridge dyed golden olive (2 Tsp Rit Golden Yellow, 1/4 Tsp Rit Camel/2 cups water)

Regards,
Scott

 

[Matt B]

Matt B’s Troutpocket’s Jigged Denny’s Stillwater Nymph

 

[jasmillo]

Big o’le bass bugger…

 

[Wanative]

Balanced bass jig fly wet and dry 2/0.

 

[Buzzy]

Balanced bass jig fly

invisible?

 

[Wanative]

invisible?

Look again. Senior moment, I forgot to put the flys in.

 

[joefromchicago]

I liked their use of the word "moderate" as opposed to "loose" and the tip that these wraps are done on the part of the feather with barbules still attached. Tying in the stem only can be problematic as stems are very hard and slick and can pull out fairly easily even with tight wraps. The point I was trying to make was tight wraps next to a built-up body tends to tip the downwing up. I know this from tying a lot of crappy flies when I began.

———————————————
I hear ya, this wing was a bugger to lay down…
View attachment 14357

Nice looking fly.

 

[Norm Frechette]

Babcock

Atlantic Salmon

Hook - Gamakatsu T10-6H
Thread - Black
Tail - Dyed yellow gray squirrel tail
Ribbing - Flat gold tinsel
Body - Dubbed with red lamb's wool
Hackle - Black tied on as a collar and tied back and dow
Wing - Dyed yellow gray squirrel tail

Fish Flies: The Encyclopedia of the Fly Tier's Art -Terry Hellekson

 

[Scottp]

Reese’s Surface Assassin

Even with it’s butt down in the water, these float pretty well in choppy stuff and they’re easy to see. I’ve made a few very minor changes to his original but the sequence is basically the same.

hook - WFC Model 28 #12
thread - Veevus 8/0 tan
abdomen - Sexi-floss tan
wing/post - Congo Hair white
hackle - grizzly dyed copper olive (4 Tsp Rit Golden Yellow, 1/2 Tsp Rit Camel/1 cup water)
thorax - Ice Dub golden brown
head/indicator - packing foam white

Regards,
Scott

 

[Scottp]

Moodah Poodah Cricket

hook - WFC Model 28 #8
thread - Uni 6/0 black
body - Ice Dub black
wing - Congo Hair white
head/overwing - 2mm foam black
indicator - Parapost yarn hot orange
legs - medium rubber black


Regards,
Scott