What's in your vise?

[tyler]

I saw this pattern on another forum and thought I’d try it.
I absolutely suck at getting the grizzly saddle hackle to lay straight and flat on the back. Maybe the wrong type of hackle? Any suggestions on how to get it better would be appreciated.
SF

i think the flies look great just like they are. of course the proof will be when you fish them and hopefully get the look / action you want.

here's a method to get hackle to lie flat. great all around fly, too! Tying a Rhody Flatwing

 

[Zak]

A little spoon fly with Edge Glo material.

 

[Scottp]

Michigan Body Madam X

hook - WFC Model 6 #8
thread - Uni 6/0 black
underbody/tail - moose body hair
rib - tying thread
body - deer hair
underwing - Congo Hair shiner tan
thorax - Ice Dub Hare’s Ear
wing/head - deer hair
legs - medium rubber black
indicator - 1mm foam orange

Regards,
Scott

 

[SculpinSwinger]

Grizzly Prince

 

[EmergingFisher]

Hill Loch Muddler, size 12.
View attachment 13966

Using the video tutorial from the great Davie McPhail:



There's a great tip in that video for setting slip wings, something that I have trouble with. He tears the slips off instead of cutting them. Sure enough, the torn slips were much easier to set.

Yeah, I tried. A few dozen and maybe I’ll get it down.

 

[Dave Boyle]

More callibaetis, a quigley of sorts but with snowshoe hare paw as the post.

Dave

 

[Zak]

Yeah, I tried. A few dozen and maybe I’ll get it down. View attachment 14237

Looks good! Try trimming the head closer. I rest my scissors on the hook eye to guide them.if you pull the parts you want cut toward the hook eye, it's easier to get at them.

 

[Scottp]

Michigan Body Mayfly

Not sure what stage of the lifecycle this represents; I’ll leave it for the fish to decide.

hook - WFC Model 3 #10
thread - Uni 6/0 black
underbody/tail - moose body hair
rib - tying thread
body - deer hair
wing - Congo Hair shiner tan
thorax - Ice Dub Hare’s Ear
hackle - grizzly

Regards,
Scott

 

[Norm Frechette]

Otter Bar Purple

Steelhead

Hooks - Gamakatsu T10-6H or equivalent
Thread - Claret
Tail - Purple hackle fibers
Ribbing - Flat silver tinsel
Body - Dubbed with purple lamb's wool or purple uni yarn
Hackle - Purple hen
Wing - Ringneck pheasant tail feather fibers
Coat thread head with uv resin

Marty Sherman originated this pattern and named it after Otter Bar Lodge while fishing northern California's Salmon River.

Fish Flies: The Encyclopedia of the Fly Tier's Art - Terry Hellekson

 

[Norm Frechette]

Princess

Steelhead

Hooks – Gamakatsu T10-6H or equivalent
Thread - Black
Tail - Orange bucktail
Body - Copper wire
Wing – Yellow bucktail over gray squirrel tail
Coat thread head with uv resin

Peter J. Schwab originated this and similar patterns between the mid-1920s and mid-1940s 1940s while he was residing in Yreka, California. This fly was inspired by Charles H. Conrad of San Francisco, California. The wings should be cocked upward 40-50°.

Fish Flies: The Encyclopedia of the Fly Tier's Art - Terry Hellekson

 

[EmergingFisher]

Looks good! Try trimming the head closer. I rest my scissors on the hook eye to guide them.if you pull the parts you want cut toward the hook eye, it's easier to get at them.

Thanks! I am trying to get into muddler heads, gonna take a bit of practice. I’ve trimmed some a bit too close so I errored toward longer on that particular fly

 

[_WW_]

Princess

Steelhead

Hooks – Gamakatsu T10-6H or equivalent
Thread - Black
Tail - Orange bucktail
Body - Copper wire
Wing – Yellow bucktail over gray squirrel tail
Coat thread head with uv resin

Peter J. Schwab originated this and similar patterns between the mid-1920s and mid-1940s 1940s while he was residing in Yreka, California. This fly was inspired by Charles H. Conrad of San Francisco, California. The wings should be cocked upward 40-50°.

Fish Flies: The Encyclopedia of the Fly Tier's Art - Terry Hellekson

Reckon that will sink?

 

[Norm Frechette]

Reckon that will sink?

probably

 

[Norm Frechette]

Red Fox

Steelhead

Tom Darling of Seattle, Washington, originated this pattern

Hook – Gamakatsu T10-6H or equivalent
Thread - Black
Ribbing - Silver embossed tinsel
Body - Red floss
Hackle - Speckled guinea fowl barbs tied in at the throat
Wing - Fox squirrel tail

Fish Flies: The Encyclopedia of the Fly Tier's Art - Terry Hellekson

 

[mtskibum16]

The Coho Cool-Aid by Spawn Fly Fish

 

[Norm Frechette]

Richey's Golden Girl

Steelhead

Hook - Gamakatsu T10-6H or equivalent
Thread - Red
Tail - Golden yellow calf tail
Body - Gold crystal chenille
Throat - Golden yellow calf tail
Wing - Golden yellow calf tail

George Richey of Flint, Michigan, originated the two preceding patterns. Chuck Lunn did, however, collaborate with him on the Golden Girl.

Fish Flies: The Encyclopedia of the Fly Tier's Art - Terry Hellekson

 

[Scottp]

Senter’s Teacher (variation)

Kept the rear end of the original intact; the rest is a bit different.

hook - WFC Model 3 #10
thread - Uni 6/0 camel
rib - tying thread
tail/body - deer hair
wing - Congo Hair shiner tan
thorax - Ice Dub Hare’s Ear
hackle - grizzly
shoulder - pheasant rump

Regards,
Scott

 

[Northern]

First small bass streamer tied with a custom dubbing brush off my new brush table

 

[joefromchicago]

Not fully agreeable…
But it also depends on which direction the tighter wraps are applied… toward hook eye vs toward the bend.

Not trying to be argumentative here but on page 299 of the Leeson & Shollmeyer book 'The fly tier's benchside reference to techniques and dressing styles', it demonstrates the procedure exactly as I described it.

 

[FinLuver]

Not trying to be argumentative here but on page 299 of the Leeson & Shollmeyer book 'The fly tier's benchside reference to techniques and dressing styles', it demonstrates the procedure exactly as I described it.

I have that book.

I know when I first took up fly tying, I found that when I made the first couple of wraps loosely, then followed with tighter wraps…two things happened - one the looser wraps became looser and two the materials pulled out.
I corrected that, by making my first two wraps as tight as possible, to secure the materials…any wraps after that were window dressing used to form a nice shaped head.
I use that technique also to help deer hair wings lay down somewhat…for stimulators especially (but also do that with some dubbing as well wrapping rearward).
‘Bout the only time I take a couple of loose wraps first, is if I am doing a cinching technique.

Thanks for sharing that page number…I’ll have to look it up.