When life serves you lemons, A TR

To the OP, what are the costs to fish where you did? Rough idea, not including travel.
Obviously there is a range in the price of accommodations chosen. Interestingly the options this year were somewhat limited due to the fact that a majority of the rental homes in the valley formerly available to fishermen are now occupied by folks escaping the war in Ukraine. Apparently the government subsidizes these rentals. When we first arrived the only place we could find was at a hostel kind of place. While this may be somewhat exaggerated my room was large enough for the narrow bed but it was necessary to stand in your suitcase while changing clothes. There were 6 rooms in our wing sharing a communal bathroom. And a shared small fridge and a microwave that didn't function. When I first saw it I thought no way but you figure out how to make things work. The rooms were $30 per night. There is one "restaurant" in town. They served hamburgers, cheeseburgers and the worst pizza known to man. Hard pass on the special homemade burger sauce. A local who we met on the river and became friends with knew another avid salmon fisherman who had an apartment beneath his house and we were able to move in there after 4 days in the hostel. Full kitchen, large screen TV and a big living room so mighty comfy digs. We rented it for the last 10 days there for $70 per night and prepared our own meals with supplies purchased at the small grocery store.

As for the cost of fishing, daily tickets for the different zones varied in price from $25 to $40 per day which is extremely reasonable for Norwegian salmon access. We also had the expense of a rental car and fuel though that was also necessary at the lodge. There is talk of perhaps offering a credit carried over to next year at the lodge where we were going to be in lieu of refunds for services not provided. Should that be the case and I can return to Norway in the future I'll say thanks but no thanks and return to this small valley in Nordland. The DYI nature of the experience and the social and cultural pluses of the diverse collection of characters we met on the river far out weighs the country club amenities provided by the full service lodge. It is much more my style and would choose it even if it was not less than 1/3 the expense. Note to self however, over the next year add learning to speak rudimentary Norwegian to the list of things to do. A good many of the people that we had to do business with each day spoke little to no English.
 
great write-up.
Best of luck with your treatment and it proves to be just another speed bump on the journey!
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the great TR and I wish you the best with your health! A 19kg anadromous salmonid in Norway would be the fish of a lifetime!

Do folks fish gear or is it fly only?
The vast majority fish with flies though it is legal to fish with gear, most use spoons, although some use worms which is also permitted.
 
Fishing techniques? Dries? When I fished Nova Scotia many fished dries or sparse wets on floating Scandi lines, the river was very clear. The river you fished looks to have a glacial tint so maybe bigger flies and mostly wet?
 
Fishing techniques? Dries? When I fished Nova Scotia many fished dries or sparse wets on floating Scandi lines, the river was very clear. The river you fished looks to have a glacial tint so maybe bigger flies and mostly wet?
Depending on water temps the fish either want the fly down in their faces or if the river warms a bit they will come up for a fly fished near the surface. We fished with one of the most interesting people I have ever met. He is now over 80 years old and was formerly the head of the psychology department at the university in Tromso. Professor Alte has been fly fishing for Norwegian salmon for over 60 years. When he found out that I spent a good deal of time fishing for steelhead he showed me a video on his phone of him guiding Trey Combs on the Alta. The professor is one of the most elegant spey casters I've watched and fished only a dry line though he "confessed" to sometimes resorting to a sinking poly leader. I was left with the impression that water temps that far north never warm to the point that salmon will actually come to the surface to eat a dry but will rise in the water column to take a sunken wet. Most people we saw fished triple density sinking lines and 2 to 4 inch temple dog type tube flies.
 
The vast majority fish with flies though it is legal to fish with gear, most use spoons, although some use worms which is also permitted.
As I recall, Delfin spoons are made in Norway, and had a few when I was a kid.
Looks like a great place to fish...
 
My guide in NS gave me these, typical wets.
As you stated the river I was fishing was usually stained by glacial till which is why probably the flies were larger than those used in the maritimes. When it did get quite clear the guys that fished there often complained that it didn't have enough color. The only salmon that I have landed in Eastern Canada was caught on a fly tied on a size 16 double, less than 1/2 an inch long. It was difficult to have any confidence in something that small until it happened.
 
Fantastic! Scandinavia is one of only a few international destinations I really hope to get to someday. Such beautiful country. That gigantic Atlantic salmon is also pretty alluring, but for sure, that's one in a million. The scenery and culture alone look worth the trip.
 
Thank you for writing the most enjoyable fishing trip report that I can recall reading (I'm 72). What a fantastic (and well-earned) experience for you and your companions!

I loved reading about the wide variety of experiences that you enjoyed during your trip: geography, culture, ecology, food, architecture, fish (natch!), and even a bit of conversational perspective from folks who live in countries other than the U.S.

In your first post, this quote stood out to me:
"There were two options. Get on a plane home and return to the doctors or do a little exploring in Norway."

That reminded me of a bit of advice that was given by a monk in the outstanding film, "Himalaya". During a difficult moment, the monk said, "When the trail divides before you, always take the hardest path."

I think it was brave of you to take that harder path (twice). And I wish you continued positive travels in your new health situation.
 
Best of luck on your journey to full health. And thanks for sharing your trip report. I've never been to the Scandinavian countries, but your story and that of a friend who visited Norway this year has me interested. Sounds like my style of fishing trip. Now get yourself well!
 
Thanks to @albula for sharing such a great trip report! And the PSA (Public Service Announcement).
Now my addition to the Public Service Announcement.

I am the poster child for regular annual, & symptomatic screening.

I was also diagnosed from a biopsy following a high PSA test because of old guy symptoms, 6 months after a normal annual routine PSA test result. So my PC was caught very early; the first in my family BTW. My urologist said PC is (typically) slow growing and that I did not need to do anything for awhile. Mrs Brian & I did not like the idea of cancer in my body so I underwent high dose rate (HDR) brachytherapy. The immediate (10 day) recovery was kind of icky before I regained "independent 2 channel plumbing control" but after one year, an "ultra-sensitive" PSA test result is undetectable. There are some minor side effects that have been gradually improving.

Get well Sir!
 
I am glad that trip report was enjoyed here in my only foray into social media. Creating it proved to be somewhat therapeutic. Being a one finger typist it was a bit of a project. And I truly appreciate the wishes for a positive result for the treatment that now has started. I am especially grateful for those who have reached out privately to offer advice and perspective having themselves been faced with the same path forward in dealing with what seems to be a constantly moving target. While this diagnosis was indeed a slap in the face I guess I should be thankful that I did not suffer an encounter with a brain worm after which, apparently, no semblance of normalcy is possible.
 
... While this diagnosis was indeed a slap in the face I guess I should be thankful that I did not suffer an encounter with a brain worm after which, apparently, no semblance of normalcy is possible.

Thank you for your report, absolutely spectacular and beautiful. I can only echo what everyone else has said in wishing you well. The sense of humor displayed above is one of the best medicines you can provide for yourself; keep it up and best of luck. Looking forward to next year's sequel report!!
 
Back
Top