Trout from above and Half Dome

Friends booked a place in August within Yosemite NP and invited my family along.

The rational pain-in-the-ass curmudgeon devil was telling me: "this is gonna be a diesel-fumed, crowded and hot waste of time"
The naïve good angel was saying: "Why not, free housing, good friends, possibilities for adventures?"

I'm glad I listened to the latter.

They got 6 permits to climb Half Dome, which is something that would have never remotely occurred to me. Obtaining permits that is, or even actually trying and do the hike. I'm not a big hiker, more due to family responsibilities. As I read more online about it, I realized it wasn't a day hike in an alpine meadow singing sort of deal, no Sound-of-Music frolic, but rather, a legit serious hike that would require an upped level of fitness + some new gear. So for a few months in advance, I did more stairs, more miles running and just in general long-duration sustained exercise, including upper body. The hike involves about 17 miles of walking, 4500 feet vertical gain, cable climb etc.

Anyway if you are looking for trout stories here, well, there are some. We spent one day walking around Tuolumne Meadows, and right by John Muir's Parsons Lodge and Pacific Crest Trail is a footbridge over the Tuolumne and you can see tons of these small guys. It's a 2-wt dream....

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I deliberately didn't pack my gear figuring, but this lady did. What a gorgeous spot to fish! Sure I was a mite jealous but then again, it wasn't as though there was nothing else to do!

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Back to the Half dome story....

The first night we got there, went out to Glacier Point for sunset and Perseid Meteors. The clouds thinned just enough to see maybe eight meteors or so, though better eyes saw more than me.

That's my climbing partner below, of the six permits only the two of us were comfortable actually giving it a shot.
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And this is roughly the route we took, waking at 4 am, arriving at Happy Isle trailhead by 5, hiking first 45 minutes in the dark and arriving at subdome by about 10:30
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We made good time and part of that is due to trekking poles. Man have I been dumb not to use those, they really save your knees and boost your speed and stability! (not to mention am now using one for river wading)

Nevada falls from Clark Point.
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View up towards Olmstead point from Sub Dome
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We gave away some of the permits en-route, a group of 4 were on the way to do the climb with harnesses and only 2 permits, so we made their day. Man that felt good!
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Gloves on and ready to go, psyching myself up, people on the cables...
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Made it to the top, me and my half dome hat
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From up top the cables look pretty easy, though from below they are, frankly, intimidating. There's no way I would do this in rain, serious weather, thunder etc. Getting there so early meant there were very few people, which meant the cables were not packed. There's no way I would do it with packed cable lines...
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The next day my family climbed Pothole dome, it's a way easier dome....That river in the background has a ton of small browns
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And had a swim at Tenaya Lake.
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On the edges of Polly Dome, saw a grove of super cool natural bonsai:

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Anyway, not a lot of trout, sorry. But fun trip nonetheless, moreso as I was out of my comfort zone, in the best kind of way. maybe that's my take home from this one, now and then go a little to a lot out of the comfort zone.....
 
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Super cool, Boot! I had no idea you could just basically walk up Half Dome. Did you feel half done after you conquered Half Dome? Regardless of looks, I find going down just about anything to be scarier and more difficult in a prolonged sense than going up; something about gravity and momentum I think. Did you find that to be the case? How were the ol' quads and knees at the bottom?
 
Shake it Cali!!!!!
Did the mist trail this spring. Never did that one before. If you do it in the spring it is like standing under/beside a sprinkler. Di you go that route or around both ways?
 
Shake it Cali!!!!!
Did the mist trail this spring. Never did that one before. If you do it in the spring it is like standing under/beside a sprinkler. Di you go that route or around both ways?
John we did Muir trail both ways, the mist trail was not misty, though they closed for trail maintenance after 7 Am so had to come down Muir trail anyways. Glad we did Muir both ways, the people we started the trail who did Mist instead of Muir, when we met up with them later, were pooped and an hour later to Subdome...

Matt- The quads did fine-ish on the way down, again, trekking poles helped enormously there, plus we were kinda almost jogging down parts of Muir trail. As for the descent off the dome, was facing the rock, went down backwards, concentrating just on foot and arm positioning. I'm tall enough that my wingspan allowed the cables to be gripped and tucked under my elbows a little, so the descent I could use my elbows for breaking and let the hands slide. I didn't realize you could climb it either, I mean excepting the Alex Honnold style, which wasn't going to happen, at least not yet...


See I used, exclusively, Honnold style on Pothole dome. Free Solo Baby! @iveofione would be proud of me!
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Though the reality was a little different. See I figure if I ramp up 1 degree steeper every day, by November I am ready for Free Solo El Cap.....The logic is inFALLable. I might need to replace my sneaks though with legit climbing shoes. Those Sneaks worked just fine till on the Half dome itself when I swapped out for a second set of shoes with fresher soles
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One of the most beautiful places on earth IMHO.
Friends and I did this hike in the 70's in early spring. Snow all the way to the base of Half Dome. The cables were laying on the rock as the hiking season hadn't really started, so we straddled the cables and basically pulled ourselves up to the top. You weren't allowed to sleep on top but we did anyways and had fun flashing our flashlights at the valley below to see how many campers would flash back.
Yosemite has changed since then because of the crowds, but I didn't realize you now need a permit!
 
Damn Boot! I think we were in the park at the same time! I was there last week. We backpacked and fished the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne (white wolf to tuolumne meadows). I honestly feel like I saw that person fishing as we exited by Pearson’s cabin. I’ll have a trip report up soon.

Half dome rules, I did it, but that was 18 or so years ago. Back when you could get asked to do something like that the day before the trip starts and not worry about your “training” ;)
 
That cable section is no joke, a teenage girl slipped and fell to her death recently while descending with her dad when a rain squall blew up and caught them in their descent.
 
Damn Boot! I think we were in the park at the same time! I was there last week. We backpacked and fished the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne (white wolf to tuolumne meadows). I honestly feel like I saw that person fishing as we exited by Pearson’s cabin. I’ll have a trip report up soon.

Half dome rules, I did it, but that was 18 or so years ago. Back when you could get asked to do something like that the day before the trip starts and not worry about your “training” ;)
Oh man that would have been fun to meet up! We could have Free Solo'd Pothole Dome or Lembert Dome together. Look forward to reading about your experience, getting up into that wilderness sure looks fun, let alone any of those High Sierra lakes!
 
Wife (a wee lass) and I did it some time ago. When we reached the saddle before the cables, a fair amount of folks were too intimidated to continue and turned around. I asked my wife what she wanted to do..."I didn't come all this way to turn around!" was the response. A nice gentleman gave her his way too large gloves to help with the cables. When we got to the top, an elder gentleman was well on his way through an 18 pack of bud...pretty sure he stayed the night. Dinner was room service on our patio at the Ahwahnee, gazing up at the dome.
 
Great TR, Boot!

I climbed Half Dome via the cables many times back in the 70s/80s, often early in the season when the cables were just lying in the rock as gwb described. I climbed it with an older friend and mentor who promised himself when he retired that he would climb it every year until he could no longer. He would always invite family and former students - all younger - to join. My last trip up Half Dome was with a group including his sons and former students in 2004 to spread his ashes from the summit. I was back in 2014 to hike the Mist trail to the top of Nevada Falls with my wife who had never been to Yosemite, but I don’t think I will ever see the summit again. Frankly, I’m not sure I would care to, if it is so crowded that a permit system is needed.
 
I climbed Half Dome via the cables many times back in the 70s/80s, often early in the season when the cables were just lying in the rock as gwb described. I climbed it with an older friend and mentor who promised himself when he retired that he would climb it every year until he could no longer. He would always invite family and former students - all younger - to join. My last trip up Half Dome was with a group including his sons and former students in 2004 to spread his ashes from the summit. I was back in 2014 to hike the Mist trail to the top of Nevada Falls with my wife who had never been to Yosemite, but I don’t think I will ever see the summit again. Frankly, I’m not sure I would care to, if it is so crowded that a permit system is needed.
Richard- the permit thing led to less crowds, the hard part is actually getting one.

What a beautiful tribute to your friend and mentor!

You could angle a different hike, Cloud's Rest maybe, not as crowded, higher elevation, no permit needed, you would definitely "see" the summit but perhaps not in the way you mean

Just working my way through "Essential Muir"- the writings re Yosemite and the Sierra you are no doubt familiar with. John Muir's passion comes off as manic, cavalier and a mite unhinged! I wasn't expecting the autodidact/zealotry at all. Makes for a more interesting read, frankly...
 
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WOW! Both @Wadin' Boot and @mcswny Yosemite reports are outstanding. Thanks for sharing and thanks much for the trip down nostalgia lane.

My dad was a seasonal backcountry ranger in Yosemite for 20 years and I grew up running around all over the backcountry. He was stationed at Buck Camp (South Fork of the Merced), Merced Lake and Tuolumne Meadows. I ended working 4 seasons with NPS while in school and worked fisheries and bears while stationed in Tuolumne.
 
What happens when you meet someone on the cables going the opposite direction?
 
great pics, thnx for the memory flashbacks...my girlfriend and I did the Half Dome and Yosemite Falls hikes back in 75' before setting out on the John Muir trail for a planned week, losing almost all of our food to a bear on our third night, which made for a very hungry and rapidl return. Our national parks are such jewels, it's understandable why they get so much traffic.
 
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