Smooth fly line to backing connection

CanoeGuy

CanoeGuy

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Not sure this will help anyone, but figured I would share anyway. I have a strange problem with my 12wt and an integrated shooting head line - the loop to loop connection between the fly line and backing hangs up on the guides (they are the flexible kind and seem to flex too easily) when pulling hard on big fish. It first happened on an albacore trip. It happened again with my striped marlin in Mag Bay. When you are about to get fly line back on the reel and you can no longer make progress, it is not a good feeling. Fortunately, I had someone to push the connection around the wire in both cases.

Figured I needed to come up with a solution before I lost a lifetime fish because of it.

Here is what was happening with a traditional loop to loop connection where both loops of the double bimini in the backing go through the fly line loop in the same direction - guide stuck between fly line and backing

hung.jpg

A different view of that connection

bad side.jpg

If instead of passing both loops through the same side, you pass one in from each side like this

start.jpg

You get a connection that can't hang up

side.jpg

top.jpg

I normally pass the spool of fly line through the loop twice to make sure the backing loop doesn't wrap on itself instead of the fly line. Doing that with this 2-sided method makes a connection that cannot be undone. I did that for the first test and had to cut the backing to get it off the fly line.

For those that are not familiar with a double bimini:

bimini.jpg
 
Looks like it's the fatness of the loop on the integrated flyline that's causing the problem. Have you considered cutting off the factory loop and snelling a piece of heavy mono with a bimini or triple surgeons loop? Then put a dab of epoxy resin on the snell and it should slide through a lot easier.
 
downriver79 said:
Looks like it's the fatness of the loop on the integrated flyline that's causing the problem. Have you considered cutting off the factory loop and snelling a piece of heavy mono with a bimini or triple surgeons loop? Then put a dab of epoxy resin on the snell and it should slide through a lot easier.
Click to expand...
You don't think what I did will slide through easily?
 
SurfnFish said:
get some suitable flexible rated shrink tubing from the local electronics supply store, low heat apply it to cover the intersections, it will slide right through the guides
Click to expand...
Might try that on the leader end for long leaders in lakes. I don't like it for fly line to backing because you can't change fly lines quickly while fishing. If I break a fly line on coral I want to be able to replace it quickly.
 
I'd cut the factory loop off the fly line. Dip the end of the fly line in acetone and strip off the plastic finish for a couple inches. Fray about a half inch of the now exposed fly line core. Whip finish at least 1/2" or so forming a loop on the end of the fly line core. Coat the whip finish with epoxy or UV resin to protect it. Now loop the fly line to the backing. Done right this will slide through guides with no issues.
 
The only warm salt water fly fishing I've ever done was for bonefish in Cazumel. I caught pretty much everything but. Barracuda, trigger, etc..
 
I was just asking....☝️

I use an Albright myself for albacore and other, smaller Baja species, but I'd have a tough time recommending even that to someone targeting marlin or big shit that I've never gone after.

@CanoeGuy , when's your next adventure?
 
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Using a blind splice on the backing with a backing loop at least 12” - 15” I run the backing through the fly line loop three times over the fly line back through the loop without drawing it tight. I then use a dental pick to help feed the backing down the sides of the fly line loop before making it secure.
The three wraps pull the fly line loop tight from the side so you never end up with a girth hitch and it runs through the guides like butter. Backing is usually hollow braid, white, from Western Filament.
Can’t do it now but might be able to upload images in the AM. I’ve used it for everything from Marlin to Redfish. Never had an issue in 40+ years. I have broken flylines 💪
 
CanoeGuy said:
Not sure this will help anyone, but figured I would share anyway. I have a strange problem with my 12wt and an integrated shooting head line - the loop to loop connection between the fly line and backing hangs up on the guides (they are the flexible kind and seem to flex too easily) when pulling hard on big fish. It first happened on an albacore trip. It happened again with my striped marlin in Mag Bay. When you are about to get fly line back on the reel and you can no longer make progress, it is not a good feeling. Fortunately, I had someone to push the connection around the wire in both cases.

Figured I needed to come up with a solution before I lost a lifetime fish because of it.

Here is what was happening with a traditional loop to loop connection where both loops of the double bimini in the backing go through the fly line loop in the same direction - guide stuck between fly line and backing

View attachment 174439

A different view of that connection

View attachment 174440

If instead of passing both loops through the same side, you pass one in from each side like this

View attachment 174441

You get a connection that can't hang up

View attachment 174442

View attachment 174443

I normally pass the spool of fly line through the loop twice to make sure the backing loop doesn't wrap on itself instead of the fly line. Doing that with this 2-sided method makes a connection that cannot be undone. I did that for the first test and had to cut the backing to get it off the fly line.

For those that are not familiar with a double bimini:

View attachment 174445
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip. I think your solution will work well. I've been warned about wear on the backing to to fly line loop connections from repeated fish hook ups, so I monitor it and occasionally put on a thin coat of UV knot sense to smooth over any edges on the doubled Bimini knot. I've never had a connection failure. My only backing failure was a massive ~130cm Providence GT that wrapped me around a big coral bommie in a deep water channel. It snapped 80 lb gel-spun backing, and I had to retie the doubled Bimini loop and spool on a new GT fly line ASAP.

Trey Combs' Bluewater Flyfishing book Chapter 21 covers many fly line to backing scenarios for large saltwater fishing. Salmo_g mentions the whip-finish the fly line core to form a strong loop method. Just don't use acetone!!!

A couple videos on this topic:



 
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clarkman said:
I was just asking....☝️

I use an Albright myself for albacore and other, smaller Baja species, but I'd have a tough time recommending even that to someone targeting marlin or big shit that I've never gone after.

@CanoeGuy , when's your next adventure?
Click to expand...
Next one requiring an airplane is golden dorado at Pluma Lodge starting the last weekend in August. Gonna be a long wait!

I plan to retire in early May so plenty of time to check tiger muskies off my list next spring/summer before that trip.
 
CanoeGuy said:
I plan to retire in early May so plenty of time to check tiger muskies off my list next spring/summer before that trip.
Click to expand...
I may know a guy...
 
It don't matter!!! Just fish dumb. I always recommend TO JUST FISH DUMB. Ahh hell just got one on there!! It can't tell!! Ahh who cares. I just fish dumb. Figure ahh what the hell just get a line out there. Only thing matters is the hook STABS the fish!!!
 
Three things: 1- I have many reels and my knot barid to flyline changes with my mood. but I always coat the knot with UV resin to smooth it out so it transitions better over guides. I have never had failures at this junction. I fish 90% salt. 2- I Fish lots or heads and heads with tips so I have lots of connections. For me a 100ft integrated fly line is almost a rare pleasure compared to 30ft shooting heads. When I fight a fish and get to a connection I wind down to the knot and keep a straighter profile of line to rod during that moment the knot goes through the tip guide before I re-assume a more tip up posture to continue to fight the fish. 3- when fighting bigger fish I'm as active as the fish is. That means when a fish is battling I'm trying to turn that fish and move him so my rod is in motion with a lot of 9 to 3 motion. I never just let a fish take line while I just stand there tip up waiting for fish to tire from the drag. It's actually better for the fish to fight them quick so you don't have a spent fish so tired they die after you release them or get immediately taken by a shark.
 
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