Evan's boat projects: The next chapter

I wonder if someone could 3D print a replica of that original molding for you?
SF
 
I wonder if someone could 3D print a replica of that original molding for you?
SF
hmm, i have a 3d printer at work.... but not sure i could pull that off. it's a really good idea though. didn't even think to use that for a few of the other doodads I'll need.
 
Got the Honda pulled off the Striper yesterday. Hoping to get the Johnson off the Wellcraft today/tomorrow (they're under a pop up canopy and tarps because of the rain today, so no need to lecture me about the open cowls 😉)

My goal is to have both engines attached to their new boats by the end of Sunday. Then it's the fun part... All the cable and control running
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I have a big Johnson. If you or anyone you know is interested in a big Johnson, I will not be keeping this one 😉

Got the Johnson about ready to remove before the forecasted crappy weather hit at 1pm. I may toy with it a bit more if the wind stops, but I'm at a good place to pick up tomorrow to continue.

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Either way, I'd need to figure out what to do with that molding. Anyone have good ideas for that? I'd need to come up with a solution for seating either a plexiglass or starboard piece in there.

Make a piece using pvc board on a dado-blade equipped table saw, or with a router? Just a guess....
 
The big Johnson is hanging. Tomorrow they both get bolted on their new homes
 

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Tap Plastics can cut you a piece to match the black/gray instrument panel that’s below your missing piece.

They can even radius the corners, round the edges and cut the holes where you want them.

Or you could router the edges on a nice piece of teak or mahogany and flush mount electronics to that.

Or going this route could look pretty good too;
 
Tap Plastics can cut you a piece to match the black/gray instrument panel that’s below your missing piece.

They can even radius the corners, round the edges and cut the holes where you want them.

Or you could router the edges on a nice piece of teak or mahogany and flush mount electronics to that.

Or going this route could look pretty good too;
I think for aesthetics, using the teak (or mahogany) panel would give it a very classy look and accentuate the gauges very nicely. You don't just want to replicate what was there before but to futher enhance the appearance when it's finished..
 
Nice work on that I/O to O/B conversion! I did stupid shit like that when I was younger. Learning to work with fiberglass was very cool. It's amazing how versatile it makes things.
 
Tap Plastics can cut you a piece to match the black/gray instrument panel that’s below your missing piece.

They can even radius the corners, round the edges and cut the holes where you want them.

Or you could router the edges on a nice piece of teak or mahogany and flush mount electronics to that.

Or going this route could look pretty good too;
Yeah TAP plastics is on my list of places to go here soon. I do think I'm going to do the flush mount program.
 
Nice work on that I/O to O/B conversion! I did stupid shit like that when I was younger. Learning to work with fiberglass was very cool. It's amazing how versatile it makes things.
Yeah I'm really happy I got the experience learning fiberglass like that. On this new boat, there's an "opportunity" to take the next step and mold a couple of custom pieces. The previous owner built these really hokey wooden shelf box things that replaced the gunnel rod holders that were standard on the boat. Not only are they pretty inadequate in design (not much useful space), he didn't finish them properly. I think he just used interior house paint on them which is now peeling.

So I think after the boat is up and fishing, I may mold some inset cubbies to put some useful trays in.
 
Well this is going to set me back a day or two. Whatever asshat hung the original motor did it about 4" off center to the starboard side. I kept wondering why I couldn't get that side of the motor to sit down all the way to get the bolt hole lined up and eventually figured it out after wasting time on getting the other bolts on.
 

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Unless the original owner had a morbidly obese fishing partner he was trying to offset, then I think the reason for it is shoddy work at the factory.

I spent time cleaning it up and busted out the fiberglass and resin to do a proper patch job. Got the glass set over the holes which I'll be filling with thickened epoxy from the other side. Also reinforced the corners of the splash well with a few layers of glass while I was at it. In a day or two, i'll sand the glass down and do some gelcoat over it.

Gonna be at least another full weekend of work to get this thing together. Didn't make it very far after the hole alignment discovery.

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Sounds like you are allover the HDPE. Way better than plexiglass.

If you need some sort of backing plate for the stern look into G10. Incredibly strong stuff. Boat manufacturers use it for backing plates on honeycomb hulls.
 
There’s got to be a reason why it was mounted that far off center. You couldn’t make a mistake that big and not notice it. Really weird!
 
There’s got to be a reason why it was mounted that far off center. You couldn’t make a mistake that big and not notice it. Really weird!
There is zero reason why it should be. The kicker is even on the side it was moved over on. The boat is otherwise symmetrical other than the helm/controls also on the starboard side. Having the prop for the main that far off the center of the keel makes no sense.

My Honda wouldn't even seat properly on there in that spot. I had to drill new holes either way. So just going to center it up.
 
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