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Sorry not to answer your question directly, but my buddy's drift boat was bouncing around quite a bit on the trailer. I suggested he move the strap aft a bit. The revised geometry reduced the on-trailer bouncing significantly, which I have to imagine helps save wear and tear on the bow where it meets the bow stop. Good luck with your potential repair/maintenance!My fiberglass drift boat has quite a few road miles this year and I've noticed significantly more wear on the bow. Do any of you do anything to recoat your bow or protect it? Do I just wait until the whole boat needs a visit to Clacka for a recoat?
Depends on the boat. I think most small boats/drift boats use epoxy resins. My big ocean boat is all polyester resin. You just want to stick with whatever is already there if you can identify it.I made the mistake of using a polyester resin with glass matting to repair the transom on my boat. A few years later I sanded out all the disbonded crud and applied epoxy resin with glass which I sanded and painted. It's easy to do.
Huh! To the original poster, I stand corrected.Depends on the boat. I think most small boats/drift boats use epoxy resins. My big ocean boat is all polyester resin. You just want to stick with whatever is already there if you can identify it.
Thanks. Pure speculation has created some great discussion though.I see you're in Portland. I have lots of fiberglass and resins if you ever want to swing by for me to look at it. My guess is that the glass is fine, though. More than likely, this is just a gelcoat issue. We're doing a lot of speculating without having seen a photo currently.
my Clack Magnum had been a duck hunting boat, had the hell beat out of it, gouges into the outer cloth...what the bottom looked like using the method I offered..easy fix...roll it over and orbital sand the bottom, fill any deep gouges with epoxy resin and filler, apply two coats of Sea Eagle High Build Tuff Stuff, finish with a coat of Rustoleum Topside. Have done this to three Clack's.


Found out about Tuff Stuff from a seasonable guide in Alaska a couple of decades ago, told me the lodge fleet of riveted jon boats (need them light for manhandling) that they ran hard on the river began leaking through the rivets after a few seasons of hard beatings, so they would roll on a couple of coats, which applies at 8-10 mils per, sealing hulls for seasons to come. Tuff Stuff is commonly used on all kinds of boats up there. I've used it on a friend's leaking Smokercraft, which is still leak free a decade later, and on several glass boats with great results.That almost looks like Wetlander. I used that on my Alumaweld and loved it. Only had the boat slip off the bank and try to float away once.![]()
One of these might work for you. I made one out of some stainless steel that I had kicking around. Works well, no more wear.My fiberglass drift boat has quite a few road miles this year and I've noticed significantly more wear on the bow. Do any of you do anything to recoat your bow or protect it? Do I just wait until the whole boat needs a visit to Clacka for a recoat?
