Above the Arctic Circle: A Fly-Fishing Adventure in Northern Iceland
After five years of chasing Atlantic salmon through the rivers of Newfoundland and Labrador, I’ve seen firsthand how rising water temperatures have taken a toll on prime fisheries. Each summer, more streams are shut down due to warm conditions, forcing anglers to either wait it out or look elsewhere. This year, I chose the latter—venturing north, above the Arctic Circle, into the remote and wild rivers of northern Iceland.
But beyond the natural beauty, the people of Iceland were equally memorable—welcoming, proud, and deeply connected to their land and water.
But with some creativity and flexibility, there are ways to keep the cost manageable.
Would I go back? In a heartbeat. But next time, it’ll be a couple of weeks later—for better odds with the salmon.
All photos were taken with my iPhone, proof that some of the most memorable moments don’t require a DSLR—just the right light and the right place.
After five years of chasing Atlantic salmon through the rivers of Newfoundland and Labrador, I’ve seen firsthand how rising water temperatures have taken a toll on prime fisheries. Each summer, more streams are shut down due to warm conditions, forcing anglers to either wait it out or look elsewhere. This year, I chose the latter—venturing north, above the Arctic Circle, into the remote and wild rivers of northern Iceland.
Getting There (on a Budget)
Surprisingly, the trip started with a bargain. I flew from Wenatchee to Iceland for just 35,000 Alaska Airlines miles—a steal compared to the 40,000 miles it costs to get to Bend, Oregon. That kind of deal set the tone for a trip that was part strategic planning, part exploration, and fully unforgettable.The Land of No Bugs and Midnight Light
One of the first pleasant surprises? No biting insects—a rare and welcome relief for someone coming from Alaska. The weather was warm but never oppressive, and with nearly 24 hours of daylight, I could fish until 10 PM with ease. The landscapes were just as breathtaking as you’d expect: volcanic peaks, winding glacial rivers, and an ethereal glow that never quite fades during summer.But beyond the natural beauty, the people of Iceland were equally memorable—welcoming, proud, and deeply connected to their land and water.
Fishing the North: What Worked, What Didn't
Over eight days, I fished several rivers and streams, securing access to a handful of promising waters. The brown trout and Arctic char fishing was excellent, with char up to 8 pounds—fat, aggressive, and strong. Unfortunately, the Atlantic salmon were just beginning to enter the rivers, and despite our best efforts, we didn’t land any. Timing is everything, and if I return (which I will), I’d plan for slightly later in the season to catch the salmon run in full swing.Iceland: Worth Every Krona?
Here’s the reality check: Iceland is expensive, especially when it comes to fishing. The best rivers can cost up to $5,000 per day, all-inclusive. Rental cars, lodging, meals—all of it is twice the cost of comparable options in the U.S. And access is tightly regulated: there are very few places you can fish without a permit, and even those come at a premium.But with some creativity and flexibility, there are ways to keep the cost manageable.
How We Did It for $4,500
By hiring a junior guide (who also served as our driver), bringing our own food, and avoiding the high-end lodges, we were able to keep our total expenses to $4,500 for 8 days—including flights, car, guide, permits, and accommodations. For Iceland, that’s a bargain. And while we didn’t experience the full salmon spectacle, the char and trout more than pulled their weight.Final Thoughts
Fishing in Iceland isn’t just about the fish—it’s about being immersed in one of the most untouched, surreal landscapes on Earth. It's about standing in a glacial river at 9 PM with the sun still hanging low over the horizon, casting into crystal-clear water while a glacier looms in the distance.Would I go back? In a heartbeat. But next time, it’ll be a couple of weeks later—for better odds with the salmon.
All photos were taken with my iPhone, proof that some of the most memorable moments don’t require a DSLR—just the right light and the right place.
