Sure, no problem. After the lead wire is wrapped and shoved up into the bead, I start the thread and lay down a thread base back to the bend. Return the thread back to behind the lead. I double over 25# mono and measure the length I want from the back of the wire. Crimp the ends flat to make it easier to tie in. Then lash the legs of the mono loop to the shank with heavy thread pressure keeping them parallel and on top of the hook. When I get to the bend I throw in a couple half-hitches. Turn the hook upside down and backwards in the vice so the extended mono loop is as horizontal as possible. This is the tricky part - continue wrapping the thread (tightly) down the loop and as it starts to close the loop set the foam into it. Continue wrapping up tight to the foam to the point the mono starts to press into it. It may be overkill, but I put a light coat of superglue on the wraps as I return the thread back down the mono extension and the hook shank. Spiral the thread back to the foam and tie in the ice dub chenille. Return the thread to the bead, wind the chenille back to the bead and tie off. I put a dab of superglue on the thread (only enough for two wraps), make a couple of tight wraps behind the bead, then whip finish. Obviously, this process involves repositioning the hook a couple of times. Like I said the superglue on the thread wraps over the mono might be overkill and you could tie in the chenille when you finish tightening up on the looped foam. I hope this helps. I should probably have taken pics of the process.@Steve Vaughn.
Really nice tie on the ned rig fly. How were you able to attach the foam cylinders to the end of the chenille? Id like to copy that pattern if yu dont mind. I just cant figure out the foam part.
Thank you.
Bob
Thanks for the fly pattern and SBS! Something like a 60 or 90 degree jig hook would work well for this pattern. Ahrex, Firehole, and others have hooks in that category. Foam cylinders in other colors to provide a hot spot might work also.By the way, I was wrong on the hook I identified. It is actually a TMC 5262 size 4, which is 2Xlong. The one in the OP is a 3Xlong. I believe an even shorter hook shank (e.g., 1X or standard) might help the vertical orientation I am going for. When I resupply some stout hooks in size 4 or better, I will try them. Right now, the prototypes are about the same overall size as the Z-Man Turds I've been using.
Pretty cool pattern and like most of us who tie flies, I'm always looking for something new and/or different. I started tying the "Trouser Worm" for carp fishing, similar in concept in that the Trouser Worm's foam cylinders lift the bend of the hook up. Thanks for sharing.Sure, no problem. After the lead wire is wrapped and shoved up into the bead, I start the thread and lay down a thread base back to the bend. Return the thread back to behind the lead. I double over 25# mono and measure the length I want from the back of the wire. Crimp the ends flat to make it easier to tie in. Then lash the legs of the mono loop to the shank with heavy thread pressure keeping them parallel and on top of the hook. When I get to the bend I throw in a couple half-hitches. Turn the hook upside down and backwards in the vice so the extended mono loop is as horizontal as possible. This is the tricky part - continue wrapping the thread (tightly) down the loop and as it starts to close the loop set the foam into it. Continue wrapping up tight to the foam to the point the mono starts to press into it. It may be overkill, but I put a light coat of superglue on the wraps as I return the thread back down the mono extension and the hook shank. Spiral the thread back to the foam and tie in the ice dub chenille. Return the thread to the bead, wind the chenille back to the bead and tie off. I put a dab of superglue on the thread (only enough for two wraps), make a couple of tight wraps behind the bead, then whip finish. Obviously, this process involves repositioning the hook a couple of times. Like I said the superglue on the thread wraps over the mono might be overkill and you could tie in the chenille when you finish tightening up on the looped foam. I hope this helps. I should probably have taken pics of the process.
By the way, I was wrong on the hook I identified. It is actually a TMC 5262 size 4, which is 2Xlong. The one in the OP is a 3Xlong. I believe an even shorter hook shank (e.g., 1X or standard) might help the vertical orientation I am going for. When I resupply some stout hooks in size 4 or better, I will try them. Right now, the prototypes are about the same overall size as the Z-Man Turds I've been using.
You should be able to get a leaflet to insert!
Funny enough it is! The tension on it as it came was way too high, so I tried bending it to loosen it and snapped it. Soldered it back together and used the thread to provide extra security and tension. I’d gladly take up that offer!Looking good.
What is going on with your bobbin? Is it broke?
If so, let me know and I have a couple extras you can have.
SF
Funny enough it is! The tension on it as it came was way too high, so I tried bending it to loosen it and snapped it. Soldered it back together and used the thread to provide extra security and tension. I’d gladly take up that offer!
I search a lot of things on Google, but I draw the line at turds.@Steve Vaughn,
Perfect SBS for the process. Thank you.
I have to see what a Z-Man Turd is. Not sure if its safe to google or not.
Be safe.
Bob
Class act move by SF to help out another up and coming tyer!Let me look tonight and I'll ping you with a PM.
SF
Here you go. https://zmanfishing.com/collections/elaztech-plastics/products/finesse-trdI search s lot of things on Google, but I draw the line at turds.