Shooting head?

[headduck]

Seems necessary to get the decent cast distance in salt.

Do you need a shooting line or will a standard line be fine?

Are they that much different from weight forward lines? (Obviously havent thrown one yet, assume weight is concentrated even further forward)

Is there a fan favorite or to be avoided?

I guess sink rate is determined by the target. Is there a 80% of the time I throw this rule...

I intend to continue to the my same generalist 7wt rod.

So many different ways to skin this cat... which for the most part seems like ways to sell more gear.

On an aside...

Anybody ever beach fish Ediz hook. Seen a few guys get the boats in super shallow, and wonder about beach fishing for kings... could be a blast...but also have a boat so could just be silly.

 

[Nick Clayton]

Definitely not "necessary" but they offer some important advantages.

Casting efficiency would be first and foremost. Minimizing false casts=more casts over the amount of fishing time=more chances at fish.
Keeping your fly in the water is important, and the ability to make one, maybe two false casts and shoot a long cast is a big advantage over more false casts and carrying more line with a longer headed line.

They also excel at casting with wind, as well as throwing heavier patterns.

Occasionally casting small soft hackle style patterns 40' for src on a windless day you could easily get away with any line you like. Want to spend days on end throwing clousers 70' in 12 knots of wind and those lines really start to shine.

For beach fishing an intermediate line can cover just about every scenario you'd encounter. At least in the sound. I've never fished off the hook specifically, but have heard of it being done. I'm pretty sure I'd want a faster sinking line out there.

 

[headduck]

Thanks @Nick Clayton

So adding a shooting head to std line is fine.

If I were to add 1 shooting head to the arsenal, would an intermediate with control of additional weight at the fly make the most sense. Or maybe a quicker sink?

Would some of those top water foam poppers from the legends resists the sink of the line? Looks like they would, but havent tied let alone thrown one.

Thinking about versatility and the role of each component... or at least trying to... lots pieces to put together.

 

[Nick Clayton]

Thanks @Nick Clayton

So adding a shooting head to std line is fine.

If I were to add 1 shooting head to the arsenal, would an intermediate with control of additional weight at the fly make the most sense. Or maybe a quicker sink?

Would some of those top water foam poppers from the legends resists the sink of the line? Looks like they would, but havent tied let alone thrown one.

Thinking about versatility and the role of each component... or at least trying to... lots pieces to put together.

I cant speak to adding anything to a standard line as the two types of lines I use for my fishing are integrated shooting heads (I use these the most) which in itself is a whole line, not something added. Running like and the head is joined seamlessly making for pleasant casting and retrieving with no connections to worry about. I've fished Airflo 40+ lines exclusively in the sound for the last handful of years, and am a big fan. Unfortunately those lines are hard to get these days but there are many similar lines available.

To a lesser extent, for a few applications I make my own setups using various running lines attached to lengths of T material in various densities. These are a versatile way of being able to swap out various heads and sink rates on the go. I generally only use these lines in the ocean for when I'm trying to get super deep.

For a number of years prior to newer options people made their own shooting heads in various ways, often by cutting up various lines and connecting heads to running lines they basically made. I really don't have any experience in this so can't really offer much.

Personally I don't think attaching a head to a full standard line would be much fun to cast, but I suppose it's an option. Never attempted it myself.

As far as fishing topwater with sinking lines, I really can't say. I fish topwater in the sound very, very rarely. When I do I simply use a floating line.


Sink rates totally vary on what you are doing. For Puget Sound beach fishing an integrated shooting head in a full intermediate Sink rate was always my go to and I seldom felt the need for anything else. Now that I fish pretty much exclusively from a boat I carry a variety of integrated shooting head lines from floating down to type 7 Sink rates as I find fishing from a boat requires more versatility line wise. Through the course of any day on the water I might use 4 or 5 different lines of various Sink rates depending on the situation.

I suppose for versatility sake you could get a floating running line and several heads of varying sink rates and swap out heads as needed. I am just not a huge fan of stripping lines with loop to loop connections between the head/running line so I avoid that when I can. If that's what you were after something like the OPST Commando head or equivalent might be a good option.

The biggest thing, IMO, is that a single line is simply not going to cover every fishing scenario our saltwaters offer, so first and foremost I would try to determine exactly what I want a line for and then go from there.

 

[Nick Clayton]

A decent article focused on shooting heads of various styles

What is a Shooting Head Line? The Ultra-Simple Version

Standard fly lines can already be pretty confusing, but now you might have to worry about shooting heads?!?!? Luckily, for many people shooting heads will be of no concern. They are mostly used by anglers targeting steelhead, salmon, certain saltwater species, or those fishing with two-handed...

www.demystifly.com

 

[Stonedfish]

You’d need to cut the front taper off a standard line you wanted to use as a running line on a shooting head system.
Rather then doing that, just buy a running line which most line companies make. You can get various types of running lines, floating, intermediate etc.
Shooting heads are old school and have been pretty much replaced by the newer integrated lines, but they’ll still work if someone wished to fish them.
The biggest downside in my opinion is the loop to loop connection. The biggest advantage is you can make your own heads and cover a lot of different fishing applications with one reel and a lot of head options.
Depending on your rod, most folks start with a 30’ heads and cut them back a foot at a time until they get things dialed in.
Nothing is an absolute, but if you followed this formula it might be helpful.
10 wt - 30’ head
9 wt - 29’ head
8 wt - 28’ head
7 wt - 27’ head
6 wt - 26’ head
I’ve found using braided mono loops to be super reliable. They’ll wear out before they fail if installed properly.
SF

Getting Looped | Dan Blanton » Fly Fishing Resources

www.danblanton.com

 

[_WW_]

Most of my shooting head knowledge is over 30 years old and with the advent of non-stretch flyline cores it is not the same trying to build one up. They just don't splice.
But here is what I would put together for a 6wt.
Running line should be .030 or less and directly splice into 10' of 8wt line taken from the belly of a DT8F. Loop the end of this with braided mono and loop on 10'-15' of whatever sink rate or even floating 8wt line you want.
The key is to go two weights over whatever you single hand rod is designated. You can also build one with a weight forward floating line and cut off all the front taper and then some to get something similar.

Strip this line all the way to the splice between running line and head, then you flop the head out in front of you to get it on top, throw a haul into your back/up cast and slip a loop into it as it starts to straighten out and do the forward cast with a haul in that. Aim high on the back and forward casts. Height equals distance. That's it, just a single back cast and your back in the water.

 

[Scudley Do Right]

What line do you have already? Seems like you are new to fishing in the saltwater. I would go with the line I have and decided if I really liked it first. If the answer is yes then go drop $100 on a line. I would start with an intermediate and go from there. I will make them if it’s something I can’t find. Like said above a DT two weights up and cut to fit. You can weld it to the running line if you don’t plan on swapping heads out.

 

[Northern]

If you enjoy tinkering with building lines, plenty of info above - have at it!

However, if you want the easy answer, and what the simplest way is to start...just get an integrated shooting head line. Airflo 40+, Coastal Quickshooter, Outbound Short, Cortland Compact, SA Titans all have their fans. I'm sure there are others, also.

Most folks would recommend an intermediate line for 80%. Weighted or unweighted flies to adjust depth/action.

And yes, with a longer leader (8-10') you can fish a beach popper or gurgler on an intermediate line - just keep it moving. It may eventually go under, but don't stop fishing it! I've caught as many fish on a submerged popper as on a floating one.

 

[Chris Bellows]

RIO still makes 30' shooting heads that you can match to a running line of your choice. Back when I guided I used integrated heads for clients but would usually fish shooting heads myself on a guide's day off. I like the ability to quickly switch heads especially if you don't have three rods rigged. I really only fished three lines; a floater, an intermediate, and a fast sinking line like t-14 or lead-core (just saying it makes me feel old now). Non-integrated heads have fallen out of favor due to dealing with the loop to loop connection while casting (you get used to it) but there is a place for it, especially if your primary fisheries require multiple lines on a daily basis and you can't swing multiple outfits rigged on the boat.

 

[jasmillo]

I would highly recommend an integrated line as well. Longer term, consider having at least a type 3, full intermediate and floater at your disposal. The full intermediate and floater should cover 99% of your beach SRC fishing and a good chunk of coho if you want. That said, I fish a type 3 90% of the time for coho based on the current and depth of water encountered on many coho beaches. There are definitely some beaches and tides where an intermediate or even a floater is a smarter choice though.

It took me a bit to figure out what lines worked best for me in what situations. Take your time with it and if you get really into beach fishing, don’t be surprised if you cycle through a bunch of lines when you first get started.

 

[headduck]

Thanks guys.

I am new to all of this not just the salt...but the salt is most easily accessible... and closest to the house with the most wide open space to practice...

I currently have 7 wt airflo beach sink and int.

Was watching a double haul video by simon from rio and he mentioned the benefit of the shooting head. Older video too. Guess I wasn't aware of integrated head but it made sense to be able to add it on... at the time.

Also seems like the int or the sink could work depending upon desired presentation...except for thw loop to loop... which was new to me and a bit odd...but...

I think I may torture myself with loop to loop so I apprecaite the upgrade when I know what I need.

Never been the guy that carries lots of rods and gear... even if I had the cash to, it just confuses me and I dont get good at any of them... but I do have 3 spools, so I'm already upping my options.

Appreciate all the insights. Thanks for humoring my ignorance and taking the time to spoon feed.

 

[Scudley Do Right]

Thanks guys.

I am new to all of this not just the salt...but the salt is most easily accessible... and closest to the house with the most wide open space to practice...

I currently have 7 wt airflo beach sink and int.

Was watching a double haul video by simon from rio and he mentioned the benefit of the shooting head. Older video too. Guess I wasn't aware of integrated head but it made sense to be able to add it on... at the time.

Also seems like the int or the sink could work depending upon desired presentation...except for thw loop to loop... which was new to me and a bit odd...but...

I think I may torture myself with loop to loop so I apprecaite the upgrade when I know what I need.

Never been the guy that carries lots of rods and gear... even if I had the cash to, it just confuses me and I dont get good at any of them... but I do have 3 spools, so I'm already upping my options.

Appreciate all the insights. Thanks for humoring my ignorance and taking the time to spoon feed.

I think the beach has a 33’ head so it’s an integrated shooting head. You already have what you need just. Grab a stripping basket and get after it.

 

[clarkman]

Re: splicing

The only line I can reliably splice and weld are Airflo lines. All others have a tendency to fall apart under the heat gun. That said, there are so damn many options out now.

 

[DoesItFloat]

I like a Rage for the flats and a Commando Groove with a tip for deeper water. I wish OPST made and integrated version. I'm using two handers in the salt.

 

[Stonedfish]

I like a Rage for the flats and a Commando Groove with a tip for deeper water. I wish OPST made and integrated version. I'm using two handers in the salt.

Isn't that what the OPST Smooth is? A integrated Skagit head similar to the SA Spey Lite?
SF

 

[DoesItFloat]

Isn't that what the OPST Smooth is? A integrated Skagit head similar to the SA Spey Lite?
SF

Yes, but the Smooth is fully floating. The Groove is their double density floating/intermediate head, but it doesn't have an integrated running line section.

 

[headduck]

Man...my current level ignorance is frustrating and embarrassing...

Thank you for pointing out the obvious for me. Tactfully as well. Appreciated.

Learning curve is flattening though, thank you all.