First raft trip

[doublespey]

Definitely good advice from Jake and others - a great way to learn is to follow an experienced rower down the river and match their lines and actions. Plus if you encounter difficulties you have someone with a boat to help you out.

Additional advice - note the CFS when you float and you'll observe how the lines and difficulty navigating change as flow increases or decreases. Lines that are the best available at higher flows might not even be navigatable at lower levels. And direction changes that are easy to manage at lower flows might require more aggressive rowing at higher flows.

Also, make sure the weigh in your raft is balanced. If you're alone in the raft with an anchor out the back put some weight up front to balance things out and you will find that your raft is much more responsive in the water.

BTW, I have the same raft and setup (except in a burnt orange color) and really enjoy how it handles.

Happy Floating!

Brian

 

[jact55]

Cool!
Maybe consider decking over your right tube (see pic below, can use plywood instead of diamond plate)
It’s going to be hard to get in the raft from the left due to the rods. Decking on the frame is game changer. So easy to step on then step in. Now add a suspended floor and you can even used studded boots!

I've been mulling this over for a month or two.
I have pics of my exact raft with a suspended floor in my email.

Dumb question (I've had alot of these lately) - so does the suspended floor swing or move alot? I see it suspended via cam straps, but it seems a little above the drop stitch floor? Is it resting on the floor, or literally suspended? I feel like even with 4 straps it would swing?
...am I mistaken

I don't like standing on the inflatable floor. Immedialy after inflating and getting in for the first time, i wanted a harder floor. I'm sure thr drop stich works fine, but eh.

I think the decking on the right of the frame makes sense. I found a hpde plastic supplier that seems reasonable. I have to cut to finish size and drill and such, but easy enough.

 

[jact55]

Regarding the last 2 posts.

Thank you for the flow link jake. Ill give it a good look
I'm a note and stats guy. I'll keep tracks of it.

Yes, the north fork of cda will be a staple. I talked go a customer today, who is an experience rower. We talked north fork, and taking my raft behind his. I liked this idea. We'll see if schedules align. Funny that comes up twice in a day, and in months that hadn't occurred to me.

 

[Fourbtgait]

I've been mulling this over for a month or two.
I have pics of my exact raft with a suspended floor in my email

I think the decking on the right of the frame makes sense. I found a hpde plastic supplier that seems reasonable. I have to cut to finish size and drill and such, but easy enough.

what thickness HPDE are you thinking?
local supplie?

 

[Brian Miller]

Buy a very good PFD.

And ensure everyone on your raft wears one that fits properly, even your dog.

 

[LBL]

I've been mulling this over for a month or two.
I have pics of my exact raft with a suspended floor in my email.

Dumb question (I've had alot of these lately) - so does the suspended floor swing or move alot? I see it suspended via cam straps, but it seems a little above the drop stitch floor? Is it resting on the floor, or literally suspended? I feel like even with 4 straps it would swing?
...am I mistaken

I don't like standing on the inflatable floor. Immedialy after inflating and getting in for the first time, i wanted a harder floor. I'm sure thr drop stich works fine, but eh.

I think the decking on the right of the frame makes sense. I found a hpde plastic supplier that seems reasonable. I have to cut to finish size and drill and such, but easy enough.

Yes the floor does move but so does the raft while floating so you really don’t notice it. I’m not anal about it and inflation changes with temp and sun but I adjust the cams so the floor kinda drags or sits on the rafts floor. I bet as often as I check the frame floor is just sitting on the raft but my weight is supported by the cams. Regardless the biggest issue with standing on the inflated floor (besides puncture with your studs) is that the weight from each leg is unevenly distributed therefore you’re always off balance. I guess my bottom line is put in a floor and don’t overthink it.
I made my own HDPE front seat seen below. Used 1/2” and it works great for the seat supported full length on 4 sides. I wouldn’t trust it for a floor but who knows.
Also make what rafters call a beaver tail for the front. (A floor shaped like the front floor)
Here’s my smaller raft

 

[JayB]

I used 0.75" marine ply for my floor. Treated it with two coats of high-quality marine varnish (first coat heavily thinned, second coat less so) and followed up with marine-grade primer, two coats of marine paint, and a final coat of marine paint+texture. Was a bit of a PITA, but has held up for hundreds of miles of multi-day trips and will probably outlast the raft.

Having said that - you could probably get away with just using exterior grade plywood and a couple of coats of whatever you feel like slapping on it and be perfectly fine.

 

[jact55]

what thickness HPDE are you thinking?
local supplie?

This was the cheapest site I found. For what I think is the right product

BuyPlastic - Shopping Cart

Shop the Best Cut-to-Order Plastic Sheeting. Buy Plastic offers great service and the best value. Quick Shipping.

buyplastic.com

Was thinking 1/2" if i do the sides. But for a floor, 3/4 seems a better option?

 

[jact55]

I used 0.75" marine ply for my floor. Treated it with two coats of high-quality marine varnish (first coat heavily thinned, second coat less so) and followed up with marine-grade primer, two coats of marine paint, and a final coat of marine paint+texture. Was a bit of a PITA, but has held up for hundreds of miles of multi-day trips and will probably outlast the raft.

Having said that - you could probably get away with just using exterior grade plywood and a couple of coats of whatever you feel like slapping on it and be perfectly fine.

I sell plywood for a living. Have multiple marine panels and/or MDO I can get from work. So this is a real option also. I'd probably spring for my hydrotek marine meranti so I could be classy lol.
For some reason I like the plastic better. Cleaner? No chance of slivers on feet or boat (obviously a good routed eased edge and sealed helps this issue).

Much easier for me to go this route. But like you said, more work.

 

[Old406Kid]

I've been mulling this over for a month or two.
I have pics of my exact raft with a suspended floor in my email.

Dumb question (I've had alot of these lately) - so does the suspended floor swing or move alot? I see it suspended via cam straps, but it seems a little above the drop stitch floor? Is it resting on the floor, or literally suspended? I feel like even with 4 straps it would swing?
...am I mistaken

I don't like standing on the inflatable floor. Immedialy after inflating and getting in for the first time, i wanted a harder floor. I'm sure thr drop stich works fine, but eh.

I think the decking on the right of the frame makes sense. I found a hpde plastic supplier that seems reasonable. I have to cut to finish size and drill and such, but easy enough.

I use MDO plywood, primed, and painted. Smooth on seating areas and a textured finish on the floor.

What Is MDO Plywood? - Curtis Lumber & Plywood

What is MDO plywood? In this article we will explain what MDO Plywood actually is, how it is made, and how it can benefit your project.

www.clp-inc.com

This picture only gives a glimpse of it on the seating areas.


Good luck with your project.

Oops, just saw the comment you made about MDO while I was typing this.

 

[JayB]

I sell plywood for a living. Have multiple marine panels and/or MDO I can get from work. So this is a real option also. I'd probably spring for my hydrotek marine meranti so I could be classy lol.
For some reason I like the plastic better. Cleaner? No chance of slivers on feet or boat (obviously a good routed eased edge and sealed helps this issue).

Much easier for me to go this route. But like you said, more work.

Ha! Talk about bringing coals to Newcastle...

 

[jact55]

Ha! Talk about bringing coals to Newcastle...

I had to google what that means.
The marine meranti? Yeah. Probably won't happen, but I've been known to do dumb stuff lol

Boat is loaded up. Headn to liberty lake to practice rowing and chase some browns.
I was able to load it myself.
Take off frame, slip in the raft, reattach the frame. Vice versus to get it out.
Will take me 15 minutes to get her in the water.
Wife doesn't want to go, and I don't want to rely on her to help me get it in the truck, she has a fused spine. Glad I can make it work solo.

 

[skyriver]

I had to google what that means.
The marine meranti? Yeah. Probably won't happen, but I've been known to do dumb stuff lol

Boat is loaded up. Headn to liberty lake to practice rowing and chase some browns.
I was able to load it myself.
Take off frame, slip in the raft, reattach the frame. Vice versus to get it out.
Will take me 15 minutes to get her in the water.
Wife doesn't want to go, and I don't want to rely on her to help me get it in the truck, she has a fused spine. Glad I can make it work solo.

View attachment 60191

Hope it went well. Nice setup! It's very nice to be able to load solo.

One topic came to mind for a new raft owner- transporting your inflated raft. I'm probably more paranoid than others about this, but be mindful of your inflation pressure. There are some horror stories out there.
If you're in the Spokane area, your biggest concern is temperature change during the day. A raft inflated to 2.5 psi in the cold morning shade will be really tight come 9 or 10am on a sunny warm day. And by noon, especially if sitting in the back of your truck or on hot pavement launch could be too tight. Just always be mindful. Having said that, a raft that is not inflated enough is not going to handle well.

For us on the wet side, our biggest concern is if we go over the pass. Could apply to you as well if heading over a pass.
If the raft has 2.5 psi in my 45-50 degree garage, at my 500 ft elevation, it will be much higher at 3000 ft and 60 degrees going over Snoqualmie Or 4000 over Stevens. Or 80 degrees on the way home! I know people that have popped float tubes going over the pass. Obviously, good rafts are a lot tougher, but the concern is still real.
I like to have some "slack" in the raft for expansion, but still taut enough to be secured by straps. Mine fits in the back like yours, but under my canopy so I don't have to contend with freeway air resistance. I can have it pretty low. As long as yours has some form to it you should be fine even at freeway speeds.

Again, I don't want to give you something to worry about, but I have heard of new raft owners not even giving this a thought.

How did she handle today?

 

[jact55]

This is something I've given thought to.
But even more so at the base level, of how much to inflate it period.
I've adopted the "feel" method, despite not knowing what to feel for lol.

I use the foot pump until I start noticing it getting harder to push down, then I stop. I'm not trying to crank in extra air once I feel that resistance. If I give the sides a push, they are firm, but will slightly depress in.

I can get a guage, but thoughts on the "feel method". Am I off base?

Regarding the temp swings, yeah that will have to be a factor. I figure most my floats will be in the AM going into afternoon.
Minor passes going into Montana will be a thing also.
I pumped it up to full firmness before loading yesterday, before strapping. If anything it got colder yesterday.
I'll be cognizant of this during the summer though. I have a kpump and foot pump so easy enough to top off later.

I learned some things yesterday.
#1- I got work to do before I hit rivers
#2- wind sucks

I'm going to get some oar rights to help me out. Which it seems they have some benefits to experienced river rafters also.

I might need ore extensions, but more testing needed before I do this. They are 7.5' oars.

I need to practice my depth of rowing.

Best thing that happened to me was a storm blowing in. Had to fight headwind to get back to the launch. I was pushed to shore close to the launch, and found out the struggle of being close to shore. My inclination wanted to take my oar out to push away like a paddle, which obviously doesn't work. And I found my right oar fairly useless when that close.
This taught me that I have alot more work to do before I include a current along with a shore lol. It wasn't pretty at the end.

I'll be back out soon to work on the stuff after reflection. Hand postion, oar position, proper full body technique, ect. Hope to have this dialed in before my lessons on the yak June 15th.

But overall, Iiked the raft alot. Stable. Comfy. Need a rod holder for trolling while rowing. Anchor System worked well, I like that. Besides the work I need to put in, It was a good experience. Look forward to the rivers.

 

[Stonedfish]

I had to google what that means.
The marine meranti? Yeah. Probably won't happen, but I've been known to do dumb stuff lol

Boat is loaded up. Headn to liberty lake to practice rowing and chase some browns.
I was able to load it myself.
Take off frame, slip in the raft, reattach the frame. Vice versus to get it out.
Will take me 15 minutes to get her in the water.
Wife doesn't want to go, and I don't want to rely on her to help me get it in the truck, she has a fused spine. Glad I can make it work solo.

View attachment 60191

Hard to tell from your picture, but could that hitch set-up be modified to add a roll bar to it? It might make loading and offloading even easier.
SF

 

[jact55]

Hard to tell from your picture, but could that hitch set-up be modified to add a roll bar to it? It might make loading and offloading even easier.
SF

Im going to look into this.

I was exhausted, and it was snowing sideways. Didn't feel like taking the frame off and on to get it in the truck when leaving the lake

I got it in there still put together, but was a struggle. And rollers would have made a huge difference.

I saw some extensions with rollers, but alot more money. Should have sprung for them in the start. Oh well.

 

[Old406Kid]

I had to google what that means.
The marine meranti? Yeah. Probably won't happen, but I've been known to do dumb stuff lol

Boat is loaded up. Headn to liberty lake to practice rowing and chase some browns.
I was able to load it myself.
Take off frame, slip in the raft, reattach the frame. Vice versus to get it out.
Will take me 15 minutes to get her in the water.
Wife doesn't want to go, and I don't want to rely on her to help me get it in the truck, she has a fused spine. Glad I can make it wo

I had to google what that means.
The marine meranti? Yeah. Probably won't happen, but I've been known to do dumb stuff lol

Boat is loaded up. Headn to liberty lake to practice rowing and chase some browns.
I was able to load it myself.
Take off frame, slip in the raft, reattach the frame. Vice versus to get it out.
Will take me 15 minutes to get her in the water.
Wife doesn't want to go, and I don't want to rely on her to help me get it in the truck, she has a fused spine. Glad I can make it work solo.

View attachment 60191

I have no idea on the exact DOT requirements for overhang but you might want to check them out so your day doesn't get wrecked.
A quick search brought this up.

Legal Overhang on a Pickup Truck​

Laws applying to commercial motor vehicles also apply to passenger vehicles, including pickup trucks. If a load overhangs the front of your truck by 3 feet, the side by 4 inches or the rear by 4 feet, you will need to properly mark the overhang at its maximum width and length with warning flags, reflectors and lights for driving after dark.

 

[Stonedfish]

Im going to look into this.

I was exhausted, and it was snowing sideways. Didn't feel like taking the frame off and on to get it in the truck when leaving the lake

I got it in there still put together, but was a struggle. And rollers would have made a huge difference.

I saw some extensions with rollers, but alot more money. Should have sprung for them in the start. Oh well.

Have you considered storing your raft on some type of cart or dolly to make it at the same height as your hitch attachment?
With a roller bar on the hitch, you could wheel the raft to where the front of the raft is sitting on the roller bar. Hop in the bed of the truck and pull it straight off the cart or dolly into the truck with little to no lifting involved.
SF

 

[Guy Gregory]

Just my opinion but get 1 foot oar extensions. Here;s how to calculate the optimum length, and yours are too short.

How to Size Your Oars

To determine the correct length oar for your boat measure the distance between the port and starboard oar sockets. Then apply the Shaw and Tenney oar length formula to determine the oar length that will provide the correct 7:18 leverage ratio. This length will provide an oar where 7/25 the...

www.shawandtenney.com

You can get remnants of plastic sheets (or order others) at a pretty good price at alcobra in Spokane.

 

[jact55]

I have no idea on the exact DOT requirements for overhang but you might want to check them out so your day doesn't get wrecked.
A quick search brought this up.

Legal Overhang on a Pickup Truck​

Laws applying to commercial motor vehicles also apply to passenger vehicles, including pickup trucks. If a load overhangs the front of your truck by 3 feet, the side by 4 inches or the rear by 4 feet, you will need to properly mark the overhang at its maximum width and length with warning flags, reflectors and lights for driving after dark.

Haha, I texted my wife on the drive to the lake saying I forgot to flag it and hope I don't get stopped.
Anything over 4' i think.
I tend to flag often just in case when hauling wood.

There were 2 instances where folks in a hurry cut behind me close in the middle lane, made me cringe. Moving forward, I'm going to flag the back and sides. I think thay grey can blend in to a background. Eek.