DYI--Concrete Pyramid Anchor

Wetswinger

Go Deep
Forum Supporter
Last Spring I made two anchors, using a half gallon paper milk container as the form. They looked good and weighed 11# each. Unfortunately they weren't enough to keep me from being blown off during moderate winds in my 10ft. pram. So I found two matching barbell weights weighing a total of 15# to use as my main anchor and keeping one of the 11# for my stabilizer. Meh, only a little better as I think their shape would allow them to slide. So now I'm trying a Triangle shape at a goal of 20#. Here's the process.


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My math must be a little off as it ended up weighing 19#..instead of the 22# I planned for. After it dries
I'll paint it with epoxy paint. It cost $7.00 with enough leftover concrete mix to build another...
10 cube inchs concrete = 1#..?


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Josh

Dead in the water
Staff member
Admin
Very cool.

How much wind are "moderate winds" in this example?
 

SilverFly

Life of the Party
Forum Supporter
Wise choice going with the pyramid shape. Many years ago I made a pair for my old driftboat using round buckets as molds. Was loading up late in the dark once and didn't secure them properly. Next morning found they had rolled over my favorite 7wt turning it into splinters.
 

Jake Watrous

Legend
Forum Supporter
If I may make a suggestion, vinyl coat can also make a good cement anchor cover because it helps prevent chipping, cracking, etc.
 

PhilR

IDK Man
Forum Supporter
I went through the same evolution. Costco gallon milk jugs, since a gallon of concrete is about 20 lb, but they’re too slick and just dragged. Weight plates slid too. Went with concrete pyramids but they ended up kinda wide and would bang on the boat. Ended up buying some lead pyramids from someone on the old site.

The other thing I learned, that everyone else probably knows, is that you have to let out enough rope that you’re pulling sideways on the anchor and it’s able to dig in.
 

Greg Armstrong

Go Green - Fish Bamboo
Forum Supporter
I went through the same evolution. Costco gallon milk jugs, since a gallon of concrete is about 20 lb, but they’re too slick and just dragged. Weight plates slid too. Went with concrete pyramids but they ended up kinda wide and would bang on the boat. Ended up buying some lead pyramids from someone on the old site.

The other thing I learned, that everyone else probably knows, is that you have to let out enough rope that you’re pulling sideways on the anchor and it’s able to dig in.
...called "scope". A 6 to 1 ratio (length x depth) is standard while using a regular marine anchor that has some chain on the line to reduce the angle of pull.
 

Jim in Anacortes

Life of the Party
I am a big fan of the "kedge". It is a small weight or anchor that is shackled to the chain a few feet above the main anchor. This small addition of weight will drastically improve the holding power of an anchor. In essence, it is a way to improve the angle of the anchor line, much like letting out more scope. If your life depends on your anchor holding, utilizing a kedge is almost always a good idea.
 

Pescaphile

Steelhead
I am a big fan of the "kedge". It is a small weight or anchor that is shackled to the chain a few feet above the main anchor. This small addition of weight will drastically improve the holding power of an anchor. In essence, it is a way to improve the angle of the anchor line, much like letting out more scope. If your life depends on your anchor holding, utilizing a kedge is almost always a good idea.
What you are describing is known as a "kellet." A kedge is the traditional style anchor sometimes called a "fisherman's anchor."

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Jim in Anacortes

Life of the Party
Thank you Pescaphile, I stand corrected. Nautical terminology is often confusing and contradicting. From the East coast to the West coast terminology is often debated. A "Kedge anchor " used with a "Kedge warp" can be used as a "kellet"..... But all I know (now, thanks to you) is that a kellet makes the "pick" stick.
 
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