Alpine. Lakes. Wilderness.

Doesn't that sound wonderful? Recently I've been liking trips that require less driving, and to have this area as one's home range is such an extraordinary gift. Last weekend I did a lake loop that still has me grinning. It shouldn't be too hard to figure this one out, but the required effort ought to keep the traffic within reason.

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Day one; five-plus miles up a creek valley, then a steep 1200' to the first lake. I'd been here last year and expected a good population of healthy Cutthroat. While clambering uphill through a boulder field I met another party on their way out; including an 80 year old. Inspiring to say the least. His parting advice: “Just never stop getting out.”

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I was surprised to find fewer fish than expected. I did bring a nice one to hand and lost a few others, but not quite the action I was hoping for. Ah well, not a bad place to be. I had the whole lake to myself, and there was new territory to look forward to tomorrow.

From here my route ascended a waytrail 1200' to the ridge above. As I was crossing the lake outlet I was viciously attacked by surprised to see a family of Otters. I'd been hearing loud whistling chirps that morning, and couldn't figure out what bird it could possibly be. 'Turns out it was two adults and two juveniles conspiring to clean out the remaining fish population.

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At the ridge I joined the Packed Crowded Trail and continued north. There is a small lake just off the way that was absolutely swarming with trail runners and through hikers. I grabbed a prime campsite, caught a Rainbow (why not?) from my doorstep, and went to explore another nearby lake.

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This next lake I really liked. It had a decent population of fish that probably don't get a ton of pressure but gave me more refusals and short strikes than I've ever experienced on an alpine lake.

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It wasn't until I spotted some cinnamon flying ants on the water and matched them that I had any success.

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I'm confused; Golden Trout?

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While hanging out by the lake I was visited by a curious Pica. This it the first/only good photo of one I've managed in all the years I've been in Washington. Usually they're gone by the time you get the camera out.

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The following day's route crossed a steep cirque wall above my first lake on a trail often blasted into the hillside.

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After an hour or so, it was time to leave the established path to work out a way down another wooded ridge to the next lake basin.

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This one was more puzzling and I caught myself straying the wrong way into steep terrain. A course correction brought me back to the ridge and a welcome view of the lake, not far below. As I popped out of the woods and into the open I was surprised and a bit disappointed to meet another party ('looked like Dad and two young teens) camping in the basin. Oh well, there's enough room for everyone.

This lake had a lot of fish in it, as in A LOT. 'Biggest ones were around 11”, so – not bad, but I actually got bored with catching them. At one point while kicking back to camp I tried skating a wooly bugger on the surface 10' from my boat, and fish would fly out of the depths to hit it. Just silly.

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There is an outlet stream, currently almost dried up, leading to a shallow swampy lake.

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It's apparent that the fish here reproduce successfully as I observed sizes from fry up to... bigger than the main lake. Ah, a challenge! These guys were spooky as fish will be when they feel exposed. Did I mention the lack of back cast space? It took who knows how long, but I did eventually bow and arrow a fly in just so and landed a monster. Must have been at least a foot long, probably more. With that I packed up the rod and headed to dinner. Mmmmm, noodles.

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Later that evening I smelled smoke and was surprised to see an obvious plume rising from the other camp. The trailhead was clearly and profusely posted with BURN BAN signs, and these nitwits think they can just risk torching the whole valley? I had a debate with myself, but eventually did go over and tell them in no uncertain terms to put the stupid fire out. Way to be a good role model for your kids, you dweeb. Jeez!

The weather had been reasonably cool, but the next day's forecast was Heat Wave, so I got an early start and headed out. The trail out isn't bad, but very steep in places. I found myself a tad nervous a few times on loose ground where a slip could easily have led to serious injury. Back to the valley, through an impressive avalanche path, into the timber and miles of trail out. Just before getting to the last chunk of road walking I nearly stepped on this well camouflaged creature, about the size and shape of a grapefruit.

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Next stop; ice cream!
 

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Dave Westburg

Fish the classics
Forum Supporter
A wonderful experience. Some of the lakes on your trip look familiar. I caught a 3 lb cutthroat at the far end of the first lake you visited. :)

A flying ant hatch is one of the only times I've found high lakes trout to be really selective.
 
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Merle

Roy’s cousin
Forum Supporter
Wow, what a superb trip report Phil!

I'm stuck at work Saturday morning with little happening, so I fired up Google Maps and Google Earth and tried to figure out your route based on the clues. It took me a couple of hours but I finally figured it out!

Very cool, I love living vicariously thru these trip reports that you, Dave and Rex (Starman) post for us. Thanks, andy
 

goinoregon

Just Hatched
a few yrs ago, my gal and i did a horse pack in, from the cle elum side. we got dropped off, and stayed for about 5 days. brought fishing gear, but ended up mostly doing day hikes. great area. ran into my first bear on the trail.... he/she was more interested in the huckleberries and salmon berries. great area. i really liked the horse packers - and the cost is not bad in my opinion.
 

DimeBrite

Saltwater fly fisherman
Way to go, you covered a lot of territory!
 

Canuck from Kansas

Aimlessly wondering through life
Forum Supporter
Sounds like a wonderful trip. Great report and pics.

cheers
 

Peach

Stillwater Fanatic
Great report - will be in the area next weekend, but just a day trip into one lake, so my trip won't be nearly as intense. I see you have the Ultra Lite Wilderness Float tube. I will be using it for my trip next week and used it for the first time at the beginning of July. Great sturdy tube for backpacking and using on Alpine Lakes.

Peach
 

GAT

Dumbfounded
Forum Supporter
Obtaining a good photo of a Pika is no easy task. I tried taking one in the Eagle Cap Wilderness but never got one as nice as yours.
 

Chadk

Life of the Party
That is massive for a western toad! I found hundreds of fingernail sized ones last month - clearly a few days after climbing to shore after losing their tails. But I've never caught one bigger than a few inches in this state.
 

NukeLDO

Steelhead
Forum Supporter
We experienced folks starting campfires up in the backcountry of the Wallowa's in clear violation of the backcountry permit and posted signage. Also noted that some of the signage posted on approach trails to the lakes were no longer there. To their credit, when I approached the other campers and pointed out the permit regs, they promptly put out their fires. Still, I struggle to understand why people still think it's ok to start a fire in the backcountry in the middle of wildfire season. I also emailed the ranger district to let them know about the missing signage and to recommend they just send a day work party up there to dismantle all the fire rings around the lakes.
 

dflett68

Steelhead
thanks for this @Phil K - great report. i also find your confusing fish to be confusing - but my guess is either westslope or a westy-based cuttbow.
 
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