Getting started with fly tying

Welcome @Dez ! A couple of suggestions, they are free...

Add these 2 items to your tying table, especially as a new fly tier. If you are tying and you get done and it's ugly or not what you want cut it all of and start again, saves on buying hooks, also after those big trout crush your caddis to many times, have a "recycle" little box (or old pill bottle), then when you get home shave it all of the hook and tie again.

Screenshot_20251218_094515_Brave~2.jpgScreenshot_20251218_094507_Brave~2.jpg

Also, Yellowdog ( https://www.yellowdogflyfishing.com/ )

And Canadian Llama ( https://www.canadianllama.com/?language=en )

Just have fun! Also maybe but some BIG hooks to practice on, then just tie tie tie!
 
I think patience and perseverance are the 2 most critical materials in a fly tying journey.

I tend to learn in fits and starts, with long pauses in-between. I'll see a platform I like and have materials for and dive into it. My current example is the dirty/skinny hoh platform. I struggled to get the rabbit to lie straight, to get the right size shanks and cones, make good, intentional compound loops. I've got it all down now except the half hitching of the hook to the bunny hide. Getting it all straight and lined up and how it should look in my mind has been a thorn in my side and it's really demoralizing to ruin a beautiful fly attaching the hook to it.

I've stepped way from that pattern multiple times for months for multiple reasons then see some video or idea and poof, light turns on and I'm back on it and they're 8% better. Whether it was the loop or the rig or whatever it was, they're slowly becoming something I enjoy tying and fishing and have confidence in.

So don't rush yourself, take the time you need to understand what it is you're trying to accomplish and what's holding you back. It's a game for and with yourself, so whatever time it takes is just what it takes.
 
I bought a Griffin vice and a little wooden workstation. I have a set of tools I want to buy (Togens premium set). I really just need to get some materials and get started. I want to start by learning to tie the elk hair caddis and the clouser minnow. Any tips on where to get materials?

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I harvested a few pheasants and partridge again this year (thanks to my pup!). If you can use a partridge skin and some pheasant tail feathers, send me your address by DM and I'll happily mail them out to you.
Steve
 
I harvested a few pheasants and partridge again this year (thanks to my pup!). If you can use a partridge skin and some pheasant tail feathers, send me your address by DM and I'll happily mail them out to you.
Steve

Not too many trout in our area that won’t eat a pheasant-tail soft hackle, of one size or another, but wire or tinsel will help. Add peacock and a hares mask and you could be set for a long time.

Beyond that: fine veevus thread and some 2x granny glasses have made a big difference for me. I also like sharp scissors.
 
I've been using 8/0 uni thread, and when tightening up the deer hair it's easy to break the thread. Very frustrating. Do y'all recommend a specific kind of thread for this, or is this a technique thing that I just need to work around (or both?)
 
I've been using 8/0 uni thread, and when tightening up the deer hair it's easy to break the thread. Very frustrating. Do y'all recommend a specific kind of thread for this, or is this a technique thing that I just need to work around (or both?)

I assume you are spinning the deer hair, so you are going to need a stronger thread. I use 8/0 a lot for my flies, though not spinning deer hair. You just can’t crank down very hard on 8/0.
Paging @RichS for thread suggestions for you.
SF
 
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I've been using 8/0 uni thread, and when tightening up the deer hair it's easy to break the thread. Very frustrating. Do y'all recommend a specific kind of thread for this, or is this a technique thing that I just need to work around (or both?)
I go with larger for hair, like 140D Danville flymaster, or GSP from 50D. With the GSP you have to be mindful of tension to prevent cutting through the hair.
I like Semperfli nano silk, Veevus only comes in white. GSP is slippery, a good hard wax helps a lot - Gunpowder Custom Tackle fly makers wax for example.
Thread tension is one of the skills you will develop. I break 8/0 Uni after using GSP 50D, it takes a while to readjust.
 
I assume you are spinning the deer hair, so you are going to need a stronger thread. I use 8/0 a lot for my flies, though not spinning deer hair. You just can’t crank down very hard on 8/0.
Paging @RichS for thread suggestions for you.
SF
Along with other factors, the more deer hair you have spun the easier it becomes to not break threads.
I like Veevus threads a lot and 6/0 Veevus is plenty strong for most trout flies like Goddard caddis or small muddler heads or elk hair caddis.
Bass size flies need strong thread. The Flymaster mentioned above is good. I like Veevus 240d for bass bugs and 140d for mid size flies like bigger muddlers and dragonfly nymphs.
The other controlling factor is how big the bundle of hair you are attaching to the hook. Big bunches need a lot of force and strong thread. With some practice 8/0 uni or the like is adequate for things like # 14 elk hair caddis.
 
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@Dez,

Welcome to the addiction, within an addiction.

Watch any of Tim Flaglers' Tying Videos, on his "Tight Lines Productions", You Tube Channel. His one on tying a Goddard Caddis, will get your deer hair spinning problem, mentioned above...squared away. Incredible Tyer. Great Explainer. Goddards are one of the hard ones and he makes it way, way, way more easier. His method can be used on almost all deer hair/elk hair patterns.

Speaking of Great Explainer(s), any of the Fly Fish Food Tying videos are also most excellent. Cheech is hilarious.....

Merry Christmas all.

Bob
 
A lot of good advise here. I usually order from Feathercraft or J Stockard.
Your flies don't need to be picture perfect, fish are pretty forgiving. They look for a reason not to eat, so close is good enough. Fish the ones you keep to fish with with confidence.
Pick a few proven fly patterns that you know work in you area for the fish you want to catch and focus on those. This will limit the materials you need. Your skills will improve by repetition. Use a razor blade and cut down the ones you don't like and try again. Just keep the ones you know you will tie on. You don't need a huge selection.
 
IMHO, best to start with easy flies that have different tying techniques and materials. It will help with 'muscle memory' and help you understand how much room they also take. When I was teaching my daughter, I would have her tie 10 flies of a specific pattern. We would put aside the first one and last one, then compare them. It is amazing how much better they got so quickly.

Even to this day, 40 years later, if tying a new, to me, pattern I will tie several flies to help me 'figure it out'. Makes a difference...
 
For tying something like the elk hair caddis or a pattern that you might really need to reef hard on thread or when your learning to tie. I would recommend Danville's 3/0 Waxed Monocord.


You can get it other places this was just a good picture.
 
Good morning @Dez ,I was just sitting down to tie and thought about your elk hair caddis.

Here are some tools that might help now and into the future.

Stacker, hackle/hair "pushers" and half hitch tool20251220_112045~2.jpg

Weighted dubbing loop tool and homemade dubbing loop "finger spinner"
20251220_112226~2.jpg
 
Good morning @Dez ,I was just sitting down to tie and thought about your elk hair caddis.

Here are some tools that might help now and into the future.

Stacker, hackle/hair "pushers" and half hitch toolView attachment 175083

Weighted dubbing loop tool and homemade dubbing loop "finger spinner"
View attachment 175084
Can you explain the second tools in your first photo? The "pushers"? I have no idea what I'm looking at and I've tied for years!
 
Hey @Northern,

What are those clips. Did you make them or did you buy them?

Thank you in advance.

Bob
They're literally just chip bag clips. These ones are nice because the silicone grippy edge holds materials well. The brand is "House Again" from amzn.

However - I try not to support amzn these days, and I have a ridiculous number of them because they came by the dozen and accidentally shipped me two packages a couple years ago

DM me an address and I'll send you a few! Three are just about right if you also make brushes on a standard brush table
 
They're literally just chip bag clips. These ones are nice because the silicone grippy edge holds materials well. The brand is "House Again" from amzn.

However - I try not to support amzn these days, and I have a ridiculous number of them because they came by the dozen and accidentally shipped me two packages a couple years ago

DM me an address and I'll send you a few! Three are just about right if you also make brushes on a standard brush table
@Northern,

Thank you so much for the kind offer but I figured out a workaround, with some clips, I already had. Maybe @Dez could use them.

If my idea doesnt work out, I will take you up on the offer. Shining example at why this is the best forum, by far, on the internet.

Merry Christmas.

Bob
 
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