Fishing eggs—what’s your approach?

[Matt B]

I know that there have got to be trout and char eating eggs in the rivers I like to fish, but I haven’t gotten out there to try to catch them this fall…yet. I need to re-stock my egg fishing supplies and thought I’d see what people are doing.

I feel like fishing eggs down here is different than Alaska. There just aren’t the numbers of fish here (usually) and it seems like maybe they are less picky about the exact right egg imitation and presentation. Agree?

In Western Washington, I have tried weighted and unweighted yarn based egg flies, and also pegged beads. Always under indicators, because I’m usually covering kind of a lot of water. Seems like the flies and beads may all have their place. I find rigging yarn flies to be less fussy than beads but I’m willing to bead it up if that’s the hot ticket. I’ve always used toothpicks but I’ve been wanting to get some of those TB Egg Pegs. Do you use those? Do you trim them closer than this guy does, or does it not matter? What about peg color? I’ve also used a weighted egg fly rather than split shot to drag down the bead, which can sorta complicate things…especially if any tangles happen.

How do you fly fish eggs in the PNW during the spawn, including later on in the spawn like now?

 

[G_Smolt]

PSA: If you choose to fish egg imitations ANYWHERE (AK, WA, etc), please do the fish a favor and throw away your yarn flies/Iliamna pinkies/glo bugs/round yarny shit ad nauseum, and fish a properly pegged bead.

Egg flies tied on a hook kill fish. It's just that simple. The fish are literally INHALING the fly, and as a result, many are hooked in critical locations.

Properly pegged beads (≤2" from BARBLESS hook, but more than 1.5") accomplish 2 things: they look like a real egg (ie they don't look like an egg with a hook coming out its ass), and they allow the fish to get its food inhale on while hooking them in non-critical locations, usually mandible/maxillary and generally close to the corners of the mouth.

To the OP's original Q - if you are using troutbeads brand beads, use .065" monofilament (should be 200#-250#) as pegs. Cut it in a bit less than bead diameter sections with one flat end and one angled 45°-60°, insert the angled side in the threaded bead, and push in until flush. Sz8 hook for 6mm, sz6 for 8mm/10mm. 12"-18" leader from weight to bead, and unless the water is too shallow and slow, always use a weight - it provides both a "disconnect" to the bead allowing you to mend without moving the bead unnaturally, and a "connect" to the flyline, taking advantage of the difference in flow speed at surface vs depth. Indicators are more properly described as bobbers for beading purposes, but they allow for a true dead drift at distance that isn't efficiently possible without.
In terms of "matching the hatch" - it is less about a true match and more about matching up to metabolic cycles of fish. Doesn't really matter what zipcode they live in, fish feed when food is available, until they can't eat anymore. After a period of food-induced torpor and digestion, they beging feeding again. If there isn't enough food to start the gorge cycle, they just keep feeding. Where I'm going with this is - find a reasonable facsimile of an egg in the stage you'd expect to see in your time window (Chum? Humpy? Coho? Fresh-dropped? Fertilized? Nonviable/Dead?) and fish it to as many fish as possible. Something is gonna eat it.

 

[Matt B]

Egg flies tied on a hook kill fish. It's just that simple. The fish are literally INHALING the fly, and as a result, many are hooked in critical locations.

I was hoping you’d weigh in. Thanks!
But—This hasn’t been my experience in Washington. However, point taken. There’s a reason I asked for input. My sample size is limited and I value hearing from folks who do a lot (or a little) of what I’m trying to do.

To the OP's original Q - if you are using troutbeads brand beads, use .065" monofilament (should be 200#-250#) as pegs. Cut it in a bit less than bead diameter sections with one flat end and one angled 45°-60°, insert the angled side in the threaded bead, and push in until flush.

Good tip but definitely maybe on buying a chunk of massive mono.

Sz8 hook for 6mm, sz6 for 8mm/10mm. 12"-18" leader from weight to bead, and unless the water is too shallow and slow, always use a weight - it provides both a "disconnect" to the bead allowing you to mend without moving the bead unnaturally, and a "connect" to the flyline, taking advantage of the difference in flow speed at surface vs depth. Indicators are more properly described as bobbers for beading purposes, but they allow for a true dead drift at distance that isn't efficiently possible without.

Perfect guideline and explanation, thank you.

In terms of "matching the hatch" - it is less about a true match and more about matching up to metabolic cycles of fish. Doesn't really matter what zipcode they live in, fish feed when food is available, until they can't eat anymore. After a period of food-induced torpor and digestion, they beging feeding again. If there isn't enough food to start the gorge cycle, they just keep feeding. Where I'm going with this is - find a reasonable facsimile of an egg in the stage you'd expect to see in your time window (Chum? Humpy? Coho? Fresh-dropped? Fertilized? Nonviable/Dead?) and fish it to as many fish as possible. Something is gonna eat it.

I mean yeah, there’s also eleventy bazillion whitefish around which are pretty game little dudes. The details of the reasonable facsimile are helpful but also necessitate further close observation of what that stuff actually looks like…which it sure helps to have a lot of fish around to look at, to make those observations. Hurray for our relatively abundant chum (and coho) runs in PS this year. I’m ready to get back out and watch some fish for sure.

 

[Peyton00]

I was going to reply, but g_smolt took care of every thing you need.

 

[G_Smolt]

Good tip but definitely maybe on buying a chunk of massive mono.

A few places in WA sell bulk mono by the foot/yard, which is why I suggested that. I personally use Black&Decker (SUPER-famous flyfishing brand) .065" string trimmer cord - the soft version doesn't crush fluorocarbon line. As a bonus (and because it doesn't say "flyfishing" on the package), it's about 10 bucks for 30'

 

[FinLuver]

Add an orange tungsten bead at the head for a weighted version.

 

[Salmo_g]

When I saw the thread title, I thought, "what fly fisherman fishes with eggs?" OK, so it's imitation eggs you're asking about. G Smolt gave away a point I'd long ago been sworn to secrecy, don't use toothpicks to peg the bead. Weed whacker cord is much closer to the specific gravity of water than are toothpicks. Or heavy nylon monofilament is only slightly heavier than water. Allegedly makes for a slightly more natural drift. But doing the math, comparing volume to specific gravity and ratio, well, we're talking about exceedingly tiny differences, the kind that fishermen can make a big F'ing deal about.

My limited experience using beads in AK made me think beads should be illegal anywhere dynamite is illegal, as both seem equally effective. I caught my first two Arctic char before I made my first cast. I kid you not. I dropped my bead into the water about half way between my feet and my rod tip, and a char raced over and grabbed the bead. And then it happened a second time. Yeah, it was fun at first, but a greedy angler could go all Ira and easily catch a hundred of the damn things; they were so keyed in on eggs at that time and place.

Locally I haven't tried using beads for bull trout. Just seems easier to swing a flesh colored marabou or rabbit strip streamer, which they seldom pass up. Or a purple marabou - you'd think the dumb things could be at least a little selective, but I haven't found that to be the case.

 

[Matt B]

I am all about fishing the streamers, but there are places and fish that require a different approach.

Yes of course I mean egg patterns, @Salmo_g, stop being so literal and precise for once! Ha. But I think more generally I was talking about indicator fishing around spawning fish for the other fish that are eating the spoils of the spawning. That can include nymphs, too, I suppose, along with eggs.

 

[Salmo_g]

I am all about fishing the streamers, but there are places and fish that require a different approach.

Yes of course I mean egg patterns, @Salmo_g, stop being so literal and precise for once! Ha. But I think more generally I was talking about indicator fishing around spawning fish for the other fish that are eating the spoils of the spawning. That can include nymphs, too, I suppose, along with eggs.

When there are hordes of chum spawning, I'm too afraid of hooking a chum to drop a fly in there for an egg raiding bull trout. Many years ago when I fished the NF Stilly regularly, a vanguard of the chum run would move into the lower Fortson Hole before I knew about it. Fishing through, I'd unintentionally hook one of them, pretty much ruining my day. Then I'd have to catch 3, maybe 4, steelhead until I caught one that was bright enough to erase the chum demerit from my catch record. It was a rough business in those days when your fishing companions would razz you relentlessly for catching chum salmon.

 

[Matt B]

Locally I haven't tried using beads for bull trout. Just seems easier to swing a flesh colored marabou or rabbit strip streamer,

I fully understand wanting to take the easy route, it’s just that some of us are more traditionalist in our approach. No judgment, you do you and all that, but tradition is what I think of most when I rig up a plastic bead to sink with tungsten metal and suspend it all under a plastic floaty.

 

[Tom Butler]

I have nowhere near the experience of the others, but I do some bead fishing now and again. Bead choice pretty much follows what others have said, but a small clear bead with a red spot is my best producer. I use a bobber stop, and seat the bead above or on the stop, two fingers above the hook. No pegging. I like using a bottom bouncing slinky setup best, then a bobber dogging rig. I also fish them with sink tips.
Been fishing them lately because I can't fly cast where we've been recently, but any more an eggstasy egg with a hares ear tool fly, tightlined or swung or bobbered, is a better producer for me.

 

[Mossback]

Borax, jello and pro cure.

 

[Matt B]

I have nowhere near the experience of the others, but I do some bead fishing now and again. Bead choice pretty much follows what others have said, but a small clear bead with a red spot is my best producer. I use a bobber stop, and seat the bead above or on the stop, two fingers above the hook. No pegging. I like using a bottom bouncing slinky setup best, then a bobber dogging rig. I also fish them with sink tips.
Been fishing them lately because I can't fly cast where we've been recently, but any more an eggstasy egg with a hares ear tool fly, tightlined or swung or bobbered, is a better producer for me.

Just any old bobber stop or does it need to be a certain one? Does it just sort of barely hold the bead in place?

 

[SurfnFish]

while he was still guiding and owned Creekside, Rich Youngers introduced me to fishing eggs for coastal winter steelhead using salmon pink yarn with couple red dots, suspended below an indicator. Highly effective and do not recall ever finding the hook deeply embedded, being strip set time at the faintest dip.

for those who knew Rich, few tied better.

Rich Youngers | Northwest Atlantic Salmon Fly Guild

 

[Tom Butler]

Just any old bobber stop or does it need to be a certain one? Does it just sort of barely hold the bead in place?

I like the clear or red rubber stops. A bead can be worked over the hook and bead. The T stops, or adding a sequin above the rubber stop, requires a quick leader snip. Sometimes I have trouble threading a bead, hence the big needle. Not much more to changing beads than a fly.

 

[Matt B]

I like the clear or red rubber stops. A bead can be worked over the hook and bead. The T stops, or adding a sequin above the rubber stop, requires a quick leader snip. Sometimes I have trouble threading a bead, hence the big needle. Not much more to changing beads than a fly.

Pink worm and a needle, huh?

My man.

 

[Zak]

PSA: If you choose to fish egg imitations ANYWHERE (AK, WA, etc), please do the fish a favor and throw away your yarn flies/Iliamna pinkies/glo bugs/round yarny shit ad nauseum, and fish a properly pegged bead.

Egg flies tied on a hook kill fish. It's just that simple. The fish are literally INHALING the fly, and as a result, many are hooked in critical locations.

Properly pegged beads (≤2" from BARBLESS hook, but more than 1.5") accomplish 2 things: they look like a real egg (ie they don't look like an egg with a hook coming out its ass), and they allow the fish to get its food inhale on while hooking them in non-critical locations, usually mandible/maxillary and generally close to the corners of the mouth.

To the OP's original Q - if you are using troutbeads brand beads, use .065" monofilament (should be 200#-250#) as pegs. Cut it in a bit less than bead diameter sections with one flat end and one angled 45°-60°, insert the angled side in the threaded bead, and push in until flush. Sz8 hook for 6mm, sz6 for 8mm/10mm. 12"-18" leader from weight to bead, and unless the water is too shallow and slow, always use a weight - it provides both a "disconnect" to the bead allowing you to mend without moving the bead unnaturally, and a "connect" to the flyline, taking advantage of the difference in flow speed at surface vs depth. Indicators are more properly described as bobbers for beading purposes, but they allow for a true dead drift at distance that isn't efficiently possible without.
In terms of "matching the hatch" - it is less about a true match and more about matching up to metabolic cycles of fish. Doesn't really matter what zipcode they live in, fish feed when food is available, until they can't eat anymore. After a period of food-induced torpor and digestion, they beging feeding again. If there isn't enough food to start the gorge cycle, they just keep feeding. Where I'm going with this is - find a reasonable facsimile of an egg in the stage you'd expect to see in your time window (Chum? Humpy? Coho? Fresh-dropped? Fertilized? Nonviable/Dead?) and fish it to as many fish as possible. Something is gonna eat it.

Thanks for this lesson!

 

[clarkman]

Eggstasy chenille eggs are all I use in various colors...2-3 turns and call it good, no trimming required. Super easy. size 12 gami egg hook for trout/whitefish, size 6 for steelhead (also my favorite carp hook in 10 and 8).

I have yet to catch a fish that has completely inhaled one nor can I recall a single instance of a fish hooked in a critical location (I've got a pretty good sample size to draw from)....unless one considers the corner of the mouth a critical location for landing a fish. I also always crimp my barbs (used to do that when I fished beads too). Maybe AK fish are just dumber than lower 48 fish (hungrier? less discerning? more discerning?)....I dunno.

I prefer unweighted and tied ~6" off of a tool fly (if the fish eats the tool fly, very rarely does the weightless egg pattern stick anywhere on the fish), which is normally something like a properly weighted caddis (the latest is shown in the "what's catching you fish" thread).

 

[Brute]

When I saw the thread title, I thought, "what fly fisherman fishes with eggs?" OK, so it's imitation eggs you're asking about. G Smolt gave away a point I'd long ago been sworn to secrecy, don't use toothpicks to peg the bead. Weed whacker cord is much closer to the specific gravity of water than are toothpicks. Or heavy nylon monofilament is only slightly heavier than water. Allegedly makes for a slightly more natural drift. But doing the math, comparing volume to specific gravity and ratio, well, we're talking about exceedingly tiny differences, the kind that fishermen can make a big F'ing deal about.

My limited experience using beads in AK made me think beads should be illegal anywhere dynamite is illegal, as both seem equally effective. I caught my first two Arctic char before I made my first cast. I kid you not. I dropped my bead into the water about half way between my feet and my rod tip, and a char raced over and grabbed the bead. And then it happened a second time. Yeah, it was fun at first, but a greedy angler could go all Ira and easily catch a hundred of the damn things; they were so keyed in on eggs at that time and place.

Locally I haven't tried using beads for bull trout. Just seems easier to swing a flesh colored marabou or rabbit strip streamer, which they seldom pass up. Or a purple marabou - you'd think the dumb things could be at least a little selective, but I haven't found that to be the case.

After fishing in AK during the sockeye spawn a couple years, I now only go in June or Sept just to avoid fishing beads…but they are damn effective.

I’m going to plagiarize @G_Smolt flesh/egg streamer for my next visit to the Katmai in Sept ‘25…

 

[Matt B]

I just checked my supplies and I have the streamer thing pretty well covered. I don’t know what happened to all my 8mm Oregon Cheese beads but there are a few and that’ll probably be enough.



@Brute, another easy trick to keep your flies modular is just thread a bead in front of your flesh fly. I’ve even tried two beads in front, different sizes and colors. It’s the swimming buffet—how can they resist? Sort of along the lines of using 14 materials in a fly—maybe they’ll see something in there that they like.

Fancy fly storage—packs down small.