What leader should I be looking at for steelhead?

C

Chinookie

Just Hatched
Is this going to work for steelhead? Or do I need to be looking at something else?

For the length of the leader... if I'm using streamers/nymphing on a floating line, I want the leader to be about the same length of the rod I'm using? And if I'm using a streamer on a sinking poly/versileader, I'd attach the streamer with about 2' to 4' of 0X tippet on that versileader?
 
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Don't buy that leader. Save yourself some money and just by a spool of Maxima Ultragreen, in whatever lb test you'd like.
12-15 lb would be a good choice for steelhead. You can just add 2-4' of leader to the end of the poly / versileader and be in business, assuming it is a sinking type.
Maybe tell us about what poly / versileader you intend to use so on your floating line so we can better help you.
SF
 
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Stonedfish said:
Don't buy that leader. Save yourself some money and just by a spool of Maxima Ultragreen, in whatever lb test you'd like.
12-15 lb would be a good choice for steelhead. You can just add 2-4' of leader to the end of the poly / versileader and be in business, assuming it is a sinking type.
Maybe tell us about what poly / versileader you intend to use so on your floating line so we can better help you.
SF
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Thanks for the reply.
If I'm going to nymph or not use the versileader for streamers, would I need to construct a tapered leader? I'm assuming I would need more than just the ultra green to make that leader?

Right now I only have a Rio Trout Versileader (12lb core/7' 3ips). I've only ever fly fished for trout so far. I'm open to any recommendations to transition to steelhead.
 
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Chinookie said:
Thanks for the reply.
If I'm going to nymph or not use the versileader for streamers, would I need to construct a tapered leader? I'm assuming I would need more than just the ultra green to make that leader?

Right now I only have a Rio Trout Versileader (12lb core/7' 3ips). I've only ever fly fished for trout so far. I'm open to any recommendations to transition to steelhead.
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In my limited experience nymphing, swinging, and even throwing dries to steelhead, I haven’t yet felt the need to use anything other than 15lb ug. Used to be 12, but I lost too many fish to it.
 
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Chinookie said:
Thanks for the reply.
If I'm going to nymph or not use the versileader for streamers, would I need to construct a tapered leader? I'm assuming I would need more than just the ultra green to make that leader?

Right now I only have a Rio Trout Versileader (12lb core/7' 3ips). I've only ever fly fished for trout so far. I'm open to any recommendations to transition to steelhead.
Click to expand...

Like most things, having just one leader really won’t cover you in my opinion for both nymphing and swinging.
You can go with a short, straight shot of leader on your versileader for swinging but you’ll want a longer leader for your nymphing.
YouTube would be a great place to look at various ways folks rig their leaders for how you are wanting to fish.
SF
 
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Regardless of the leader you decide to use please remember that it is of paramount importance that the length of your leader should at all times exceed the distance between your fly and the end of your fly line.
 
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Salmon/steelhead polyleaders are about 24lb.

trout PL are 12lb.

tippet should be less then the PL core strength so you don't loose the PL in a fight. Everything else you posted in #1 is typical way to do it.

some scandi guys do not use a PL but longer 15ft tapered leader for swinging so you can go that route. Don't nymph be a man! Swing it! A real man swings it on top.
 
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Chinookie,

The Rio leader in your link will serve just fine for floating line work fishing on or near the water surface. Add some 10# tippet and a fly and you're good to go.

Steelhead leaders:

Floating line on or near surface fishing, the above is a good fit as are many other tapered or hand tied tapered leaders. I normally use a tapered leader around 10' long (range 9 - 12', I'm not too picky) for wet and dry flies.

Floating line for dirty azz nymphing: I don't care for or use fluorocarbon, but many experts do. Such a leader needs to be constructed for the water depth you're fishing. Begin with a 15# butt section knotted to a 12# or 10# tippet section of 2' length. Two, sometimes three size BB split shot are affixed just above the knot to keep them from sliding down. The tippet attaches to either a weighted or unweighted nymph. A second piece of tippet can be attached to the bend of the hook of the first nymph and then a second nymph added. This works but will ordinarily result in more tangles. This is very much like a trout nymphing leader, only using stronger test leader material.

Sink tip or sinking line fishing: I use about a foot of 15# Maxima as a butt section attached to the end of my sink tip line. I then attach about 3' of 10# Maxima as my leader tippet. The reason I use two sections of leader material is because I haven't mastered a loop knot that doesn't break before the knot that I attach to my fly. This way I only have to replace lost tippet sections after snagging and breaking off.

These three types of leaders account for all the steelhead fishing I do, or have done since dirty azz nymphing ain't my thing.
 
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Salmo_g said:
Chinookie,

The Rio leader in your link will serve just fine for floating line work fishing on or near the water surface. Add some 10# tippet and a fly and you're good to go.

Steelhead leaders:

Floating line on or near surface fishing, the above is a good fit as are many other tapered or hand tied tapered leaders. I normally use a tapered leader around 10' long (range 9 - 12', I'm not too picky) for wet and dry flies.

Floating line for dirty azz nymphing: I don't care for or use fluorocarbon, but many experts do. Such a leader needs to be constructed for the water depth you're fishing. Begin with a 15# butt section knotted to a 12# or 10# tippet section of 2' length. Two, sometimes three size BB split shot are affixed just above the knot to keep them from sliding down. The tippet attaches to either a weighted or unweighted nymph. A second piece of tippet can be attached to the bend of the hook of the first nymph and then a second nymph added. This works but will ordinarily result in more tangles. This is very much like a trout nymphing leader, only using stronger test leader material.

Sink tip or sinking line fishing: I use about a foot of 15# Maxima as a butt section attached to the end of my sink tip line. I then attach about 3' of 10# Maxima as my leader tippet. The reason I use two sections of leader material is because I haven't mastered a loop knot that doesn't break before the knot that I attach to my fly. This way I only have to replace lost tippet sections after snagging and breaking off.

These three types of leaders account for all the steelhead fishing I do, or have done since dirty azz nymphing ain't my thing.
Click to expand...
I have had no problems in doing a loop to loop connection from butt to tippet by simply putting a perfection loop in the heavier butt and then making a doubled loop in the tippet by tying a spider hitch and then a triple overhand with the loop formed, kind of a quick and easy poor man's Bimini twist. Then the butt never or very seldom has to be replaced during normal fishing. If a new tippet is required just tie another spider hitch, create the doubled loop on your chosen tippet length and loop it on. Easy peasy and I have never had one fail. Break offs always occur at the fly.
 
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Salmo_g said:
Chinookie,

The Rio leader in your link will serve just fine for floating line work fishing on or near the water surface. Add some 10# tippet and a fly and you're good to go.

Steelhead leaders:

Floating line on or near surface fishing, the above is a good fit as are many other tapered or hand tied tapered leaders. I normally use a tapered leader around 10' long (range 9 - 12', I'm not too picky) for wet and dry flies.

Floating line for dirty azz nymphing: I don't care for or use fluorocarbon, but many experts do. Such a leader needs to be constructed for the water depth you're fishing. Begin with a 15# butt section knotted to a 12# or 10# tippet section of 2' length. Two, sometimes three size BB split shot are affixed just above the knot to keep them from sliding down. The tippet attaches to either a weighted or unweighted nymph. A second piece of tippet can be attached to the bend of the hook of the first nymph and then a second nymph added. This works but will ordinarily result in more tangles. This is very much like a trout nymphing leader, only using stronger test leader material.

Sink tip or sinking line fishing: I use about a foot of 15# Maxima as a butt section attached to the end of my sink tip line. I then attach about 3' of 10# Maxima as my leader tippet. The reason I use two sections of leader material is because I haven't mastered a loop knot that doesn't break before the knot that I attach to my fly. This way I only have to replace lost tippet sections after snagging and breaking off.

These three types of leaders account for all the steelhead fishing I do, or have done since dirty azz nymphing ain't my thing.
Click to expand...
10# tippet is enough for steelhead?
 
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Chinookie said:
10# tippet is enough for steelhead?
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Steelhead are the most over-rated game fish that I know of. According to some, 10# isn't near enough for steelhead. However, I used 8# Maxima on single hand rods from 1974 until I switched over to 2-handed rods for steelheading, where I use 10# Maxima, largely because the Spey rods allow me to easily cast larger flies. The one exception to 8# Maxima was the Thompson River in B.C. where the aggressive strikes from large fish would break the tippet on the strike. So I switched to 10# Maxima on the Thompson, and problem solved. Of course 8# Maxima is similar in strength to 10# by other makers. I used 8# Maxima when landing steelhead of 20 pounds and larger without issue.

Aside from that, I can't explain why some anglers have breakage issues with leader tippets under 15#. I only know that I haven't. I do not use 8 or 10# tippets by makers other than Maxima because they can and do break. With 8# Maxima I cannot break it using a single hand rod (8 weight) with the rod bent, only by a straight line pull, which is not how I play a fish. I can break 8# with some of my more powerful Spey rods, hence the use of 10#, which is also better for larger sized flies. With a single hand 8 wt I don't like casting flies larger than size 2. I can, but I'd rather not.

Is 10# heavy enough for steelhead? Thompson River and Dean River steelhead are the hardest hitting steelhead I have ever hooked. To date, I have never had one break me off using 10# Maxima (which probably tests similar to 12# by other makers).
 
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albula said:
I have had no problems in doing a loop to loop connection from butt to tippet by simply putting a perfection loop in the heavier butt and then making a doubled loop in the tippet by tying a spider hitch and then a triple overhand with the loop formed, kind of a quick and easy poor man's Bimini twist. Then the butt never or very seldom has to be replaced during normal fishing. If a new tippet is required just tie another spider hitch, create the doubled loop on your chosen tippet length and loop it on. Easy peasy and I have never had one fail. Break offs always occur at the fly.
Click to expand...
You have no problem because you have mastered knots that I have never heard of. Until you teach me those knots I will continue to use a short butt section that tests heavier than my tippet.
 
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Salmo_g said:
You have no problem because you have mastered knots that I have never heard of. Until you teach me those knots I will continue to use a short butt section that tests heavier than my tippet.
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Yes the butt section is always heavier. I look for it to be just slightly more "flexible" than the end of the fly line so as not to have a hinging effect. Depending on the fly line and the type of mono used for the butt it usually is 25 or 30 lb test. And the spider hitch is easy to tie. It can nearly be done with your eyes closed and is very strong. I have at times used it when tarpon fishing to connect shock tippet quickly when expedience necessitated a quicker change than having to deal with tying a tippet with 2 Bimini twists.
 
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More power to you if you never break off on 8 and 10 #.

A lot of the places I’ve fished there’s a lot of structure I want to keep fish out of. Also I like to be ready to land a photo-worthy fish when it strikes.
 
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Jake Watrous said:
More power to you if you never break off on 8 and 10 #.

A lot of the places I’ve fished there’s a lot of structure I want to keep fish out of. Also I like to be ready to land a photo-worthy fish when it strikes.
Click to expand...
I wanted to follow up with you to clarify. You aren't adding any tippet to the 15# ug? You're running level for the whole setup, swinging and nymphing?
 
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