What have you done for your boat lately?
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Jeff Dodd
Steelhead
This summer I purchased a 10’ Spratley Jon boat. It was a bare boat, and while it does fit in my truck bed, it’s damn heavy & I needed a trailer to tow it behind the Alaskan Camper.
I found a small King trailer nearby, converted it to carry a Jon boat, replaced the bearings and tires and it’s now ready and safe for I90.
The Spratley received some love too. New wheels for the transom, new seats and seat saddles to mount them on.
New oars from Mark Yoshida, are tucked away in the oar holders. I’m ready for fun in Central Washington this Fall.
Say Hi if you see me!
I found a small King trailer nearby, converted it to carry a Jon boat, replaced the bearings and tires and it’s now ready and safe for I90.
The Spratley received some love too. New wheels for the transom, new seats and seat saddles to mount them on.
New oars from Mark Yoshida, are tucked away in the oar holders. I’m ready for fun in Central Washington this Fall.
Say Hi if you see me!
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Very cool! Such solid boats, I saw a lot of them on my many trips to the Kamloops area. I can't tell from the photographs how you have the oars secured to the boat but it looks as if you're going to tow it at freeway speeds with the oars in their holders?
Jeff Dodd
Steelhead
I wasn’t planning on it until I got them all secured and they are very solid in the brackets. But really, there is no reason to try it, other than….. well, there really is no reason 
Nee starter relay on my Yamaha 40 4 stroke. The starter did a couple of runon events sdo I changed out the relay. I did a yamsha part instead of a far cheaper knockoff, just don’t trust the cheap electricsl parts.
How old is that motor?
Been 3d printing lots of fun dodads. Favorite so far are my cup holder caddies for my smaller boat. I was sorely lacking in convenient places to set things.
Sized it large enough to fit bigger water bottles and coffee mugs as well.
At some point I'll show how I'm actually mounting it. The white brackets at the top are just attached to the carpeted wood pad that's there to be a clamp spot for the rod holder. The clamps hold it up so the weight of the cup holder doesn't drag it down.
The back side of the cup holder caddy has two vertical dovetail slots. They slide onto a heavy duty (printed with carbon fiber filament) base and snap in.
Sized it large enough to fit bigger water bottles and coffee mugs as well.
At some point I'll show how I'm actually mounting it. The white brackets at the top are just attached to the carpeted wood pad that's there to be a clamp spot for the rod holder. The clamps hold it up so the weight of the cup holder doesn't drag it down.
The back side of the cup holder caddy has two vertical dovetail slots. They slide onto a heavy duty (printed with carbon fiber filament) base and snap in.
That's awesome. I feel like 3D printing will end up being one of the most useful inventions in the modern age.
LSDesignandCreate on Etsy is a dude from Bremerton that 3D prints rod, cup and pump holders. I bought his pump holder and liked the quality enough to buy his cup/phone holder. It can mount horizontally & vertically to the standard raft frame sizes. It's so simple, but so nice. It holds my 32oz Nalgene perfectly. This pic is from his site.
Let us know if you're taking orders!
Heck if people have ideas, shoot me messages. I enjoy coming up with designs.That's awesome. I feel like 3D printing will end up being one of the most useful inventions in the modern age.
LSDesignandCreate on Etsy is a dude from Bremerton that 3D prints rod, cup and pump holders. I bought his pump holder and liked the quality enough to buy his cup/phone holder. It can mount horizontally & vertically to the standard raft frame sizes. It's so simple, but so nice. It holds my 32oz Nalgene perfectly. This pic is from his site.
View attachment 194049
Let us know if you're taking orders!
It's a 2002. Once deferred maintenance was complete it's very nice...quiet, pretty good power. Pushes my 16' Lowe about 25mph at 5500rpm
I've got one of those that I bought new in 2019 with the pump on it which knocks it down to a 30 horse which is the max my boat is supposed to have. Looks like I should be set for a while.
Pescaphile
Steelhead
I posted a while back about removing my boat's engine because it had developed an oil leak. The leak wasn't anything bad as far as the engine was concerned, only a drip or two an hour, but it was enough to make the harbor look like a rainbow.
The mechanic who was going to help got hurt so I ended up doing the work myself. As usual with things with me, the schedule went out the window.
So the boat sat all sad and lonesome at the dock next to the crane the entire winter waiting patiently to get lined back over to the crane to receive the engine after it was finally repaired.
When I finally got things finished and the engine back sitting in the boat, but not yet dropped into the engine compartment, I decided that I really ought to paint the bilge/engine compartment. After all, I wouldn't have the opportunity (fingers still crossed) to do this work after the engine is back in place.
I of course should have waited to bring the engine aboard. Its presence now made my (expanded) project more awkward and more difficult. Fortunately I had a helper with much better flexibility, not to mention his reduced size, increased speed, better knees, etc. to help with the prep work.
The engine compartment looked good after three coats of bilgekote.
The installation and alignment went well. I didn't have any problems, didn't break or lose anything and additional expenditures were fairly minimal. The engine always ran well but the new motor mounts really have made things smoother and there's no oil dripping in the bilge.
The failed parts which necessitated the project were a rubber-coated sealing washer and an aluminum locking washer. These washers sealed the fitting where the oil extraction hose is attached to the bottom of the oil pan. Only about $15 total, plus $10 for shipping and some tax. A fairly minor expenditure as boats go.
But of course the part are inaccessible for service while the engine is installed, so then the extras
New motor mounts (4): $360
New Damper plate: $500
Machine shop/welding: $930
Paint, solvent, supplies: $200
Gaskets, fasteners, wire. $150
Crane rental (2). ... $30
So about $2,170 total for something that $25 in failed parts which instigated the project. An almost two orders of magnitude in additional costs.
I'm glad the project turned out well and is behind me. I can now get to all the projects that were delayed, i.e., new halyards, replace anodes, repair aft cabin sole and mizzen mast step. Plus take the things that just occured like the the light in the head.
Some projects are big. Most are small. Many are something completely new to figure out. The only certainty is there's never an absence of them. And then there's the house.
The mechanic who was going to help got hurt so I ended up doing the work myself. As usual with things with me, the schedule went out the window.
So the boat sat all sad and lonesome at the dock next to the crane the entire winter waiting patiently to get lined back over to the crane to receive the engine after it was finally repaired.
When I finally got things finished and the engine back sitting in the boat, but not yet dropped into the engine compartment, I decided that I really ought to paint the bilge/engine compartment. After all, I wouldn't have the opportunity (fingers still crossed) to do this work after the engine is back in place.
I of course should have waited to bring the engine aboard. Its presence now made my (expanded) project more awkward and more difficult. Fortunately I had a helper with much better flexibility, not to mention his reduced size, increased speed, better knees, etc. to help with the prep work.
The engine compartment looked good after three coats of bilgekote.
The installation and alignment went well. I didn't have any problems, didn't break or lose anything and additional expenditures were fairly minimal. The engine always ran well but the new motor mounts really have made things smoother and there's no oil dripping in the bilge.
The failed parts which necessitated the project were a rubber-coated sealing washer and an aluminum locking washer. These washers sealed the fitting where the oil extraction hose is attached to the bottom of the oil pan. Only about $15 total, plus $10 for shipping and some tax. A fairly minor expenditure as boats go.
But of course the part are inaccessible for service while the engine is installed, so then the extras
New motor mounts (4): $360
New Damper plate: $500
Machine shop/welding: $930
Paint, solvent, supplies: $200
Gaskets, fasteners, wire. $150
Crane rental (2). ... $30
So about $2,170 total for something that $25 in failed parts which instigated the project. An almost two orders of magnitude in additional costs.
I'm glad the project turned out well and is behind me. I can now get to all the projects that were delayed, i.e., new halyards, replace anodes, repair aft cabin sole and mizzen mast step. Plus take the things that just occured like the the light in the head.
Some projects are big. Most are small. Many are something completely new to figure out. The only certainty is there's never an absence of them. And then there's the house.
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August is house month for me.