Trailer problem

the_grube

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3 year old Karavan trailer. Noticed this the other day while it was sitting in my driveway.
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This is a shot of one of the risers and mounting brackets for the bunks. All 4 are bent towards the stern of the trailer, and skewed like this. Anyone seen this before?
 
It kinda looks like the large nut has backed off allowing the that L bracket to tilt.. Maybe the bolts werent tightened all the way when built.
 
It kinda looks like the large nut has backed off allowing the that L bracket to tilt.. Maybe the bolts werent tightened all the way when built.
That's a great observation. I've been wondering how this could have happened. I think that nut is supposed to allow some rotation of the bunks, Maybe I need to replace with a ny-lock or a larger bolt and double nut assembly.
 
your bolts loosened up so the brackets got leveraged from the rearward boat weight on the bunks as the boat was launched and retireved...each year when preparing my boat for winter, I invariably find some loose bolts on the trailer from being driven on our mountain roads..
 
your bolts loosened up so the brackets got leveraged from the rearward boat weight on the bunks as the boat was launched and retireved...each year when preparing my boat for winter, I invariably find some loose bolts on the trailer from being driven on our mountain roads..
I agree but wonder if the boat was trailered a time or two without the bow being snug in the trailer's bow cradle?

OP - I agree, that 90 degree bent flat bar should rotate some with the bunks as they follow the hull when floating or trailering your boat. I wonder if a nylon washer between the flat bar and it's support piece would allow you to tighten the connection and still have rotation? Good luck.
 
Good info here. I also have a tendency to throttle off the bunks at times rather than get out and back the truck up further. I wouldn't think an outboard motor would have that kind of torque, but it is a 60hp. If that connection allowed the bunks to slide back and stress those connectors?

I plan to gingerly trailer the rig to a nearby lake, tie off to the dock and work on the trailer in the lot. I'll need to move the bunks an inch or so to get away from the worn out existing screw holes and will go with a ny-lock nut or longer bolt with double nut. With any luck I'll have time to chase a few planters around the lake. It'll be a good spring shake down cruise.
 
With the lag bolts being pulled from the bunks and the riser appearing to be bent toward the stern you may want to do a re-set of the bunks. The area of the lag bolts is compromised and will likely cause you a major assache at the worst possible time. Not sure the size of the vessel but based on 60 hp I’m assuming 16-18’ I doubt it was a launch or load issue. I’d buy a new bolt & riser kit from Karavan based on the “all four are like this” description and reset the bunks at least 8” from original location based upon the damage at the “below water level area.” I say this based upon my experience launching loading and delivering boats for some pretty high end manufacturers/dealers.
Good luck going forward. Cheap money vs an alternative issue.
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changing position of bunk boards can change how they support the hull, whereas replacing bunk boards is inexpensive. Douglas fir works fine, and topping it with poly skid plates instead of carpet makes launching and retrieving much easier.
 
Finally got parts shipped and fixed the trailer. I wound up swapping the bunks end-for-end so that the new new screw holes stayed on the original layout and well away from the old gouged screw-holes. Things went together well. I'll keep a close eye on it from now on.
 
@SurfnFish,

Morning.

Can you point me to a picture of the poly skid plates? Where can you get them? How do you apply them?

Thank you in advance.
what I call skid plates are sold as 'trailer bunk slides', the most common material used is HDPE (high density polyethylene).
Their sold on Amazon, Ebay, Bass Pro Shops, etc, usually comes in white, black and brown, very easy to apply, just screw down on top of the existing bunks boards, carpeted or not doesn't matter.
They are sold as either longer boards and shorter boards. The shorter boards are usually less expensive due to reduced shipping costs, screwed down with a gap between boards. Plenty of how to videos on line.
Since the boat will comes off the trailer much easier once applied, it's necessary to keep the bow winch ratchet locked as on steeper ramps boats will start to slide off the trailer while still backing down.
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what I call skid plates are sold as 'trailer bunk slides', the most common material used is HDPE (high density polyethylene).
Their sold on Amazon, Ebay, Bass Pro Shops, etc, usually comes in white, black and brown, very easy to apply, just screw down on top of the existing bunks boards, carpeted or not doesn't matter.
They are sold as either longer boards and shorter boards. The shorter boards are usually less expensive due to reduced shipping costs, screwed down with a gap between boards. Plenty of how to videos on line.
Since the boat will comes off the trailer much easier once applied, it's necessary to keep the bow winch ratchet locked as on steeper ramps boats will start to slide off the trailer while still backing down.
View attachment 112968

I bought these for my 16 foot aluminum lake boat. I like 'em.


The old bunks got punky due to soggy carpet. Replaced with 2X6s and the slides. Glides right on, no prob.
 
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I just bought a caravan trailer.. I'll bee keeping my eye on it... thanks for the thread.
I think the easiest way to monitor for this problem is to roll the bunks after each launch. If they roll too easily then those ny-lock nuts holding them to the clips on need to be tightened... once gaps develop in that connection things can go South in a hurry.
 
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