Trailer Blinkers/Lights Troubleshooting

Salmo_g said:
Is this one of those cases where when a relay is replaced, it needs to be re-programed, or its firmware updated? I'm told that with modern vehicles we're no longer driving a car or a truck, but rather we're driving 40 or 50 computers around, leaving me lost before I get started.
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Fortunately, probably not. A relay is a relay,…. But yeah, there are a lot of computers in a modern vehicle.

Glad you solved your problem. Sometimes it’s just the lowly connector.

Ps. Some one already prove me wrong so forget what I said about relay…
 
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Evan B said:
I'm happy to report that cutting off that old wiring harness and wiring in a temporary flat four adapter has solved the issue. Happy it was just that ☺

Given my super small time available to get this ready before I go, I appreciate all the ideas here.
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Flat four is the best connector. They are the smallest, most resistant to corrosion, easiest to connect a meter to, and the only godly connection for a trailer. The rest is heresy and witchcraft.
 
Sorry, late to the party. What sort of brakes does your trailer have? The seven pin connector has a backup light wire which powers a valve to disable/bypass your trailer brakes on a surge system. Otherwise if you back uphill you will be fighting your brakes. Some surge brakes may have a manual override. BTW, I'm no expert on this so take it for what it's worth.
 
Evan B said:
I'm happy to report that cutting off that old wiring harness and wiring in a temporary flat four adapter has solved the issue. Happy it was just that ☺

Given my super small time available to get this ready before I go, I appreciate all the ideas here.
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Not sure if I'm spelling this right but I try to use some dielectric grease on my connections once a year. You may need to use it more often around the salt.

Now let me tell you about my $1800+ windshield wiper problem. It's just a relay. However the relay is an integral part of the fuse box. Once the new fuse box is installed it then needs to be programmed and updated by some company back east. 2014 RAM 1500.
 
_WW_ said:
Not sure if I'm spelling this right but I try to use some dielectric grease on my connections once a year. You may need to use it more often around the salt.

Now let me tell you about my $1800+ windshield wiper problem. It's just a relay. However the relay is an integral part of the fuse box. Once the new fuse box is installed it then needs to be programmed and updated by some company back east. 2014 RAM 1500.
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Yeah I've only had this truck for a few weeks. Pretty sure the only salt it's seen are on the roads around NE Washington when my dad was driving it. I do tend to wash all such things with saltaway and use dialectric grease.
 
Dustin Chromers said:
I hate trailer lights. That said you should make an additional ground and connect it from the truck to the trailer. Alligator clips are sufficient. Just makes sure it's all clean. Ground is generally weak for trailers and the ball at the beginning of the season is often rusty and unclean resulting in bad ground. I have one trailer that functions similarly to yours unless I use the additional ground wire. With this it functions perfectly.
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I second this. I had the same problem last weekend.
 
Evan B said:
Yeah I've only had this truck for a few weeks. Pretty sure the only salt it's seen are on the roads around NE Washington when my dad was driving it. I do tend to wash all such things with saltaway and use dialectric grease.
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Wait, another new truck?
 
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