Rod Building The Rod Building Thread

Just a headsup:
I used a dark thread trim band under lighter wraps, burying it before doing one more band at the end. It didn't show through until I put the finish on the wrap...now a varicose vein as a reminder not to do it again....hopefully posting this saves others from making the same mistake.

View attachment 111644
Thanks for the heads up!
 
Just a headsup:
I used a dark thread trim band under lighter wraps, burying it before doing one more band at the end. It didn't show through until I put the finish on the wrap...now a varicose vein as a reminder not to do it again....hopefully posting this saves others from making the same mistake.

View attachment 111644
Just looks like a build "style" element. I have seen this done on purpose. You can even use it instead of the alignment dot.
 
What do you guys do to mark/sign your rods? My first build, I didn't write anything on it. But this one I'm working on now (just mounted the cork and taped the guides), I'd at least like to get the rod blank name on it.

thanks!
tim
 
What do you guys do to mark/sign your rods? My first build, I didn't write anything on it. But this one I'm working on now (just mounted the cork and taped the guides), I'd at least like to get the rod blank name on it.

thanks!
tim
I first bought custom labels online, then I bought a calligraphy pen. Tried all the tips and found one I liked from the kit. Then lightly sanded down the tip to not be so sharp and use Testors Silver Paint. If you get other colors they don’t flow correctly and you’ll have to mix in thinners. The silver and gold flow really nice on one of these pens.

https://a.co/d/ilTR7hs
 
Mark my rods? I’m more like this

IMG_1138.jpeg

On another topic: Do any of you have a source for eva upper grips? I want one like on the right (a little less than an inch OD) but I can only find the ones on the left.

IMG_1283.jpeg
 
Mark my rods? I’m more like this

View attachment 112475

On another topic: Do any of you have a source for eva upper grips? I want one like on the right (a little less than an inch OD) but I can only find the ones on the left.

View attachment 112476
Hmmpgh, a lot of help you are.

One thing I’m learning about with clear wraps. Make sure your hands and wrapping area is really clean. Any marks on the thread will show up once epoxied.
 
@mcswny I also grabbed some of the Liquidtex Acrylic paint for nib/dip pens the other day to try out from a recommendation. The Testors is some awesome stuff, I’ve done two labels with it. It does require acetone to remove and if you’re doing a painted blank that’s a no go unless you get it perfect on the first try.

Granted most blanks are not painted, and it doesn’t effect colored fiberglass rods at all or raw graphite.

I grabbed one of the Epson label printers too 🙄 comes today. I only have 1/2in thick white lettering on clear tape so far, but will probably get silver on clear as well in 1/2in. If you want one of those labels done I’ll snail mail you one.
 
I put the tag ends on the same side as the guides. I also put a tiny (micro) dot of krazy glue where the tag ends cross before trimming.

Btw: That is a cool colour combo..
 
What Herkileez said, I use a small amount of clear fingernail polish from my fly tying. It works well with Threadmaster on the wraps.
 
Same as Steve. Dot of Sally’s.
 
Is it an actual feather or real fancy thread work?
It’s a guinea feather 👍 I used FlexCoat Color Preserver thinned 20% with distilled water. And put on just enough to stick it down. Probably will thin it a tad more next go-round to help with working time before it drys. Then I cleaned up any excess around the edges with 99% alcohol.

It was good practice to work on uniform epoxy coverage over a long section. Falconer Custom Rods videos online really helped.

Also learned less fancy thread work is better on the final tip wraps as the blank starts to get thin. Transition fade wraps start to get a little ugly when not much blank is available. Better to do a simple trim band or 3-4 turn inlay band.
 
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