The Crown Jewels

First, let me say that I really do like catching fish, but here we go with another fishless trip report. This one was especially satisfying, because my wife and I got out with my old climbing partner and first true Seattle buddy, RZ. Somehow, with him moving to Oly-town and having kids, a career, and all that grown up stuff, we hadn’t hiked together for decades.

A series of big lakes sits in deep glacial cirques and drains north to SR2. To me this is the absolute Crown Jewels of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. In 2021 we did a complete traverse of the high ridge above. There may be a TR on some other random FF website; this would be a shortened version. The parking lot is at about 1600’ elevation, so there’s sure to be lots of type two fun to come. On the way in you pass an ancient Sitka Spruce, a reminder of what these forests must have held before logging.

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You pass a low lake and the work begins. There was smoke in the valley, but the forecast was for clearing by the end of the day.

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By good fortune we ran into another old acquaintance on the way in; someone my wife and I had climbed with and not seen for years. For good measure, it turns out RZ knew her from high school, so it was quite the reunion. There was no one else at the first lake so we grabbed the prime campsite, set up, and enjoyed our delicious dehydrated meals. After dinner I went prospecting for trout. There were a few good sized risers out in the lake, but nothing within casting range. I ceremoniously wet a line and sat taking in the view.

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By morning, the smoke was gone and breaking clouds welcomed the new day.

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We had work to do ascending steep brush, then open forest, heathered ramps, and a slightly sketchy dirt descent into the upper basin. We clambered about looking for crystals, but found no portable keepers.

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We considered staying here, but the only water this late in the year was a puddle from last week’s rain so we moved on to the next planned camp. More heather led to a brush choked gully and a long talus traverse. You skirt cliffs above and below then regain the ridge and drop into a beautiful saddle with tarns.

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As we set up camp here, clouds raced through. Darkness came early, and we turned in. We had whiteout conditions and light rain during the night, and I fully expected a wet hike out in the morning. Instead, we woke to clearing skies and a fine late fall day. Edible Aspen Boletes found the day before got the dehydration treatment.

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We ascended ~5900’ minor summits to the N and S and took in the expansive views.

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Two other friends on a long (!) day hike paid us a planned visit visit and brought a welcomed package of brownies. We did not share these with the local fauna.

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TBC
 

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I’ve found dozens of these blasted things over the years.

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We had beautiful evening views including this area that I visited a week or so prior,

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and “Hazardous Enigma” peak.

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All good things come to an end, in this case with a fairly long hike out. Faint smoke was visible to the east and occasionally scented the air.

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Down an endless 800’ rockslide to the head of this lake

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and several hundred feet of shoreline wading eventually got us back to the trail.

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We pass two more big lakes on our way out. I kept a careful eye out for shoreline cruisers but saw none. We stopped for a second lunch, and I made a few hopeful casts over the depths but it wasn’t happening. I later looked a stocking reports, and the last plant came in at a whopping 0.6 fish per acre. They are probably still out there, and may be well fed, but this ain’t no wild rodeo.

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Down, down, down. Third lunch in the valley while sitting by the lowland lake. There appeared to be dinks all over the place, but... nah.

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Thanks for sharing. "Rugged but breathtakingly beautiful country" falls far short . . .
 
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You know how to live Phil. Well done and thanks for those beautiful pics!
 
I too have passed that tree before, she's a beaut Clark!
 
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