Switch Rod or Not?

R

Run-n-Gun

Just Hatched
New here and 1st post. Looking for some opinions. Getting into PS Sea Run Cutthroat fly fishing and want a better rod for more casting distance. I have been a few times the last month with no luck yet. I fish with a Sage 590 Graphite III which works great for lakes and small streams but am disappointed with it on the beach. I borrowed my buddies 10' Sage 5100 RPL and loved it. My question: Would / could a 4-5 or 6wt switch rod in 11 or 12 ft length be even better than the 10 footer? I know nothing about switch rods and haven't bought a fly rod in years, but do like casting the longer rods and do own a spey rod and know how to cast it. Would hate to buy and find out I don't like or need a switch. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
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A 11-12' switch rod would likely give you more distance, but at the expense of possibly missing fish following in close. A singlehand rod allows you to strip as much of the head in as you like, then, with a few false casts, making a full cast again. With a switch rod, you retrieve to the start of the head, leaving 30+' of water in front of you unfished before casting again, as you generally don't false cast with a two-hander. My own experience is that I pick up more fish on the beach with a 9'6"-10' sh rod than with my switch rod. This may also be because airborne casts create less disturbance than waterborne two-hander casts. I had also noticed that the most successful beach fishers I know all use sh rods. The fact that you loved your buddy's 10' sh rod helps answer your question. I would suggest a med-fast 9'6"-10' sh rod for your beach fishing....not too willowy, as you'll want to be able to punch the line out on breezy days.
Having said the above, I should mention that casting a longer sh rod isn't for everyone..ie: poss shoulder issues, etc. In short, there is no wrong answer re: sh vs two-handers. Look through the discussions and choose the options that suit you best...and don't look back.
 
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Herkileez said:
A 11-12' switch rod would likely give you more distance, but at the expense of possibly missing fish following in close. A singlehand rod allows you to strip as much of the head in as you like, then, with a few false casts, making a full cast again. With a switch rod, you retrieve to the start of the head, leaving 30+' of water in front of you unfished before casting again, as you generally don't false cast with a two-hander. My own experience is that I pick up more fish on the beach with a 9'6"-10' sh rod than with my switch rod. This may also be because airborne casts create less disturbance than waterborne two-hander casts. I had also noticed that the most successful beach fishers I know all use sh rods. The fact that you loved your buddy's 10' sh rod helps answer your question. I would suggest a med-fast 9'6"-10' sh rod for your beach fishing....not too willowy, as you'll want to be able to punch the line out on breezy days.
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Great point. That last 30’ or so is valuable real estate when it comes to catching fish off the beach. It’s a shame to give it up. I wish I had a $1 for every cutt or coho I’ve caught over the years close to the rod tip.
SF
 
Run-n-Gun said:
New hear and 1st post. Looking for some opinions. Getting into PS Sea Run Cutthroat fly fishing and want a better rod for more casting distance. I have been a few times the last month with no luck yet. I fish with a Sage 590 Graphite III which works great for lakes and small streams but am disappointed with it on the beach. I borrowed my buddies 10' Sage 5100 RPL and loved it. My question: Would / could a 4-5 or 6wt switch rod in 11 or 12 ft length be even better than the 10 footer? I know nothing about switch rods and haven't bought a fly rod in years, but do like casting the longer rods and do own a spey rod and know how to cast it. Would hate to buy and find out I don't like or need a switch. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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You might consider changing how you've lined the rod to get the distance you want. Are you using a heavy shooting head line?
 
No. I need a new line also. Haven't got that far yet. Thought I would find a rod 1st, then try to match a line to it. I made a list of 10', 5 wts available. Wish I could find that Sage 5100 RPL. No luck on the used front yet. Are the cheaper brands like TFO, Reddington, Echo or Techo worth a try. I see Orvis has a Clearwater 10', 5wt for under $300. I am willing to spend more, but would really like to test cast a more expensive rod before pulling the trigger. I don't think I have to spend $1000 or more to get what I'm looking for. Thoughts?
 
All of those bran
Run-n-Gun said:
No. I need a new line also. Haven't got that far yet. Thought I would find a rod 1st, then try to match a line to it. I made a list of 10', 5 wts available. Wish I could find that Sage 5100 RPL. No luck on the used front yet. Are the cheaper brands like TFO, Reddington, Echo or Techo worth a try. I see Orvis has a Clearwater 10', 5wt for under $300. I am willing to spend more, but would really like to test cast a more expensive rod before pulling the trigger. I don't think I have to spend $1000 or more to get what I'm looking for. Thoughts?
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All of those brands are fine. I prefer a 6wt for the beach out here, but a 5wt works fine for SRC. The Echo Boot Blue is a fine rod, throws an OBS great. I second what others have said about the 2 handed rods for beach fishing. I have a Boost Beach, I like it a lot, but having a long rod plus keeping the head out of the guides is a bit of a pain.
 
Just a thought, I’ve got a 10’ 6wt tfo rod that I use as a boat/float tube, indicator and single hand spey rod. It might be just the ticket for SRC. It’s a great Shad rod.
 
I have zero experience fishing PS, but it sounds like a 6wt Echo OHS with an integrated line shooting head might be right up your alley.
 
Run-n-Gun said:
No. I need a new line also. Haven't got that far yet. Thought I would find a rod 1st, then try to match a line to it. I made a list of 10', 5 wts available. Wish I could find that Sage 5100 RPL. No luck on the used front yet. Are the cheaper brands like TFO, Reddington, Echo or Techo worth a try. I see Orvis has a Clearwater 10', 5wt for under $300. I am willing to spend more, but would really like to test cast a more expensive rod before pulling the trigger. I don't think I have to spend $1000 or more to get what I'm looking for. Thoughts?
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I'm no beach expert, but I've heard enough of them say the opposite thing, where they find a line they like and match a rod to it.

Maybe one of them can correct me if I'm wrong, but beach fishing equates to making as many long distance casts in your time window as possible while also stripping in to the leader mosts casts. Also steep beaches, looky-loos and trees impede back casting.

For me, that sounds like the shortest shooting head that loads your rod is the path, with the lightest running line you can still strip with, so something integrated ideally.

I'm not sure what line that is, but when you find it, your current rod will work if it's weighted appropriately.
 
Run-n-Gun said:
No. I need a new line also. Haven't got that far yet. Thought I would find a rod 1st, then try to match a line to it. I made a list of 10', 5 wts available. Wish I could find that Sage 5100 RPL. No luck on the used front yet. Are the cheaper brands like TFO, Reddington, Echo or Techo worth a try. I see Orvis has a Clearwater 10', 5wt for under $300. I am willing to spend more, but would really like to test cast a more expensive rod before pulling the trigger. I don't think I have to spend $1000 or more to get what I'm looking for. Thoughts?
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This guy has a 10’ Z-Axis 5 wt. One thing to consider about buying older Sage rods is the cost to repair them. A RPL or similar is going to run you $195 unless it is specific serial numbers and you’re the original owner. They also keep adding models to the unrepairable list. I see the beloved XP is now on the list.
So if you break a $575.00 used rod, you are looking at having $800 in it with shipping for repair.
You can have two new Echo, Redington or TFO rods for that price or for $20 more, a new Loomis IMX - Pro ($595.00)

If you plan to fish long sessions on the beach, something shorter than a 10’ rod would be my recommendation.
Good luck in your hunt.
SF
 
I don't know much about two handed fishing but I agree not stripping to the rod tip is going to cost you fish. I knew one guy who was dedicated to it but he knew it wasn't the most effective method. It will give you one advantage at high tide when there isn't any back cast room. If you're really set on it maybe one of those integrated single hand spey lines you could also overhead might work? I have used rods from 8'-10' and it might not seem like it would make a difference but when casting all day I notice more fatigue with a longer rod. My preferred rod is a 9' 4 weight with a shooting head. I can't cast it as far but it's more fun to fight the fish with.
 
I think you need to learn your targets and pick tools accordingly. A switch rod works perfectly and you can always back up. In fact doing so results in more fish caught close. I'll target SoCal corbina that are caught right in the skinny water with both 2 hand and SH rods. SH tires me out. 2 hand is what I like for beach. Best beach 2 handers are optimized for overhead casting but can spey cast too. Think beulah opal. A switch is going to be more optimized for spey just because of the length but a swtich can overhead too. That's why they are switch rods. Spey casts are also not all water borne. Spey casts are waterborneor or touch&Go and their are even aerialized waterborne casts that double spey or snap-t never water borne. The surf is the perfect place, if not using traditional water borne casts, to use hybrid and touch and go casts. In beach tough and go your cast can be just as good T&G on the wet sand as it can on the water. The head bump does not bother me. I make small connections and point my rod so the bump is barely felt. But if the connections bug you then use an integrated line. I happen to like the versatility of heads and tips. I mostly stay out of the water for my local prey. Some guys are nipples deep. That means their 9ft rod is 2 ft closer to the water and my 11ft. rod is casting more like a 9ft rod casting from dry sand.
 
Stonedfish said:
This guy has a 10’ Z-Axis 5 wt. One thing to consider about buying older Sage rods is the cost to repair them. A RPL or similar is going to run you $195 unless it is specific serial numbers and you’re the original owner. They also keep adding models to the unrepairable list. I see the beloved XP is now on the list.
So if you break a $575.00 used rod, you are looking at having $800 in it with shipping for repair.
You can have two new Echo, Redington or TFO rods for that price or for $20 more, a new Loomis IMX - Pro ($595.00)

If you plan to fish long sessions on the beach, something shorter than a 10’ rod would be my recommendation.
Good luck in your hunt.
SF
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Thanks for that true warrantee statement. I own the Z-Axis 7136-4, which is my fav steelhead swing rod. Also have the old Sage 7100 RPL I have used lots in AK. I borrowed that Sage 5100 RPL on a Missouri R. trip from the same buddy and I broke the tip off. I delivered to Banbridge for repair in person, posing as the original owner and got it fixed under original owner warranty, no cost without issue. Warrantee or not, I'm still, I'm hooked on the Sage brand in my repertoire, and would buy that 5100 RPL at the drop of a hat, warrantee regardless.
 
To me, this is a question you can only really answer by trying it out yourself and seeing what you prefer. I think this is just one of those things that some people prefer and others do not. Years ago I thought I would benefit from a switch rod and got one for beach fishing. Ended up preferring a single hander; just didn't like overhand casting it as much as a single hander. Spey casting it presented its challenges too. I live near a very popular fishing beach and you need room to set up your spey cast, so if space is tight it doesn't really work. Also, way more opportunity to pick up kelp when spey casting. I actually use spey casts to set up my single hand casts when space and salad allow in that once I retrieve all of my line, I loop my line back out of my rod a couple times (kind of an exagerated snap T) and then make an initial spey cast but transition to overhand casting right after that. For me, that seems to be the most efficient method. Learning to double haul correctly should minimize the number of false casts you need and help with your distance using a single hander too. When I do it properly, rarely the case, after the initial spey cast to get some line out, I only need one false cast to shoot the rest of my line out. My line spends more time in the water, I don't get tired as fast, and the difference in the distance, at least for me, is marginal between either rod.
 
Stonedfish said:
This guy has a 10’ Z-Axis 5 wt. One thing to consider about buying older Sage rods is the cost to repair them. A RPL or similar is going to run you $195 unless it is specific serial numbers and you’re the original owner. They also keep adding models to the unrepairable list. I see the beloved XP is now on the list.
So if you break a $575.00 used rod, you are looking at having $800 in it with shipping for repair.
You can have two new Echo, Redington or TFO rods for that price or for $20 more, a new Loomis IMX - Pro ($595.00)

If you plan to fish long sessions on the beach, something shorter than a 10’ rod would be my recommendation.
Good luck in your hunt.
SF
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I bought a 10' 6wt that @Wetswinger built on a North Fork Composites blank with saltwater-ready components. It is a really nice rod, but I find that the extra foot torques my wrist more than I like.

I might be willing to let it go for the price that I paid for it (I forget exactly how much, but about $100). Or trade it for something that I want more.

@Run-n-Gun , if you are going to go to the swap n meet in May, I could bring it with me for you to try out. Or we could meet somewhere near Mill Creek and you could try casting it on a soccer field or something.
 
Run-n-Gun said:
Thanks for that true warrantee statement. I own the Z-Axis 7136-4, which is my fav steelhead swing rod. Also have the old Sage 7100 RPL I have used lots in AK. I borrowed that Sage 5100 RPL on a Missouri R. trip from the same buddy and I broke the tip off. I delivered to Banbridge for repair in person, posing as the original owner and got it fixed under original owner warranty, no cost without issue. Warrantee or not, I'm still, I'm hooked on the Sage brand in my repertoire, and would buy that 5100 RPL at the drop of a hat, warrantee regardless.
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I have a friend who is also a member here that has a 10’ 5wt 3 pc RPL 5100-3 he is looking to sell.
PM me if you are interested and I’ll give you his contact info.
SF
 
Well there ya go, opinions all over the place. Good luck! For what it's worth, I would reline your SH rod and try that first. (and buy another rod, then another............)
 
Buzzy said:
Well there ya go, opinions all over the place. Good luck! For what it's worth, I would reline your SH rod and try that first. (and buy another rod, then another............)
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I own the Sage 590 Graphite III, 9', 5wt.? What brand and type of line would you match to it, for PS SRC beach casting? So many options out there to sift through. Thanks.
 
Run-n-Gun said:
I own the Sage 590 Graphite III, 9', 5wt.? What brand and type of line would you match to it, for PS SRC beach casting? So many options out there to sift through. Thanks.
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The Rio Outbound Short is probably the most popular line out there for SRC. Short shooting style head and it cast really well. I use them on a 6wt Echo Boost Blue and now a Scott Centric and it works great. They come in floating and intermediate.
 
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