Smoked Out

I was last up this way 21 years ago... it seemed much easier then. That was before it became Instagram famous and we saw one other person the whole trip. Ah, the good ol' days.

We got a late start and hiked the first section in the afternoon. You gain about 1200' to net 600' over 4.5 miles. We camped by the river just before the trail turns right and heads uphill past this feature.

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The trail is fairly steep and rough, and it was too warm for comfort. The Trailblazers have built a few structures including this nice log bridge.

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Eventually you top out at the first of several lakes. A number of these, including this one, are on the WDFW Overabundant Lakes list.

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There was a nice log cabin. Again, built by the Trailblazers in 1950; now run down and a bit trashed. Still lots of ripe berries up here.

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We were feeling pretty beat, and decided to stop for the night; the next day we planned to gain another 1200' which gets you to an alpine upland with open views and some interesting lakes to explore. We found a fairly nice, though dusty camp spot overlooking the meadowy head of the second lake.

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After dinner I hung out on a rock ledge overlooking the lake, watching fish rise. The fish have plenty of spawning habitat and are plentiful though small. I was in no hurry to bother them. There was definitely a smoke layer higher above, but I thought we were far enough away from active fires not to be concerned. I saw a Plover type bird which I've never encountered before in the high country, but didn't get a good enough look to attempt an ID.

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About a minute after taking this picture, I heard a loud splash 50' to my right, and was surprised to see someone's large black dog paddling about. Usually we'll hear hikers approaching from some distance. As is my habit, I started talking to the pup; "Hey doggie, how'z it going?"

OH WAIT, THAT'S A BEAR!!

I really wish I'd gotten a picture, but we were both so surprised that the bear took off before I even had time to think about it. 'Good sized specimen from what I can tell. I made sure to hang our Ursack extra far from camp that night.

We woke the next day to Yuck, which rhymes with _ _ _ _. The smoke had blown in thickly, and we had waves of hot, ash laden air occasionally waft through. My wife knows way too much, including the fact that this is not healthy. I knew we were headed out.

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We did spend a few hours wandering around the lake we camped by, and I stopped to string up the fly rod. A size 14 Adams was eagerly consumed. I saw a Kingfisher; again- not something I'm used to in the high country.

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This is my backpacking kit: a TFO six piece rod, some cheapo reel : ) , a nice little belt pouch that Z-Packs used to make, a C&F fly box held together with duct tape, a 9' sink tip, 4x, 5x, 6x, nippers, flotant, and a roach clip. It all weighs 18.4 oz.

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A bit more sightseeing, a last cup of tea, and we headed out.

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I fished the lowest lake but wasn't really into it, and the fish were just playing chicken with my fly. My knees were not super happy with the rough downhill. Were it not for trekking poles, I'd have suffered greatly. We found some choice mushrooms in the valley and passed this cool cut log.

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Out before dark, chips and Limonata waiting in the car. I'm already thinking I might just go back.
 
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That is such a beautiful place. Too bad the smoke blew in on you. I've been there twice 39 years apart.

In 1974 my brothers and I visited & fished several of the lakes and climbed up the peak above the tarns at the head of the basin to the SW of the "pass" in your pic. We saw one other party of two hikers doing a North to South traverse heading up the glacier to the pass and beyond but they took a fall and had to cut their trip short.
My surviving brother & I took it easy and just fished a couple more of the lakes on the 2nd trip. I was just happy to be there again @ 60 yo. There was a traverse party rescue - medivac on that trip too!
 
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That is such a beautiful place. Too bad the smoke blew in on you. I've been there twice 39 years apart.

In 1974 my brothers and I visited & fished several of the lakes and climbed up the peak above the tarns at the head of the basin to the SW of the "pass" in your pic. We saw one other party of two hikers doing a North to South traverse heading up the glacier to the pass and beyond but they took a fall and had to cut their trip short.
My surviving brother & I took it easy and just fished a couple more of the lakes on the 2nd trip. I was just happy to be there again @ 60 yo. There was a traverse party rescue - medivac on that trip too!
I actually tired going in in here the first year I was in Seattle; mid 80s. A friend who I thought knew what he was doing planned the route, going up the W Fork and out this E Fork trail. We went with three other people who were OK trail hikers, but completely out of their element off trail. The trip nearly ended in disaster when one of the party slipped on a steep heather slope and would have crashed into the boulder field below had I not luckily been in perfect position to tackle her.
Yes, now I consider myself very fortunate to still be doing this!
 
@Phil K , the trail at 0.10 mile from the 1st lake has a tiny flattish spot on a curve then a short +40° grade section before settling back to 18° for most of the way to the lake. You can't see the lake from there and in 1974, even with a map and altimeter I couldn't tell exactly how far it was until the trail leveled out at the top.

After that 2.5 mile +2400' grind a HS friend of mine who came along with my brothers and I looked at that 40° "step", took off his pack and threw it down on the ground yelling "I'M NOT GOING ANOTHER STEP!"

My brothers; both fresh out of the Army (& I in the USAF, a Mountaineers member & climber) looked at me with grins. I stayed with my friend to... well, be a friend and make sure he was OK as my brothers started up the last section of trail and disppeared over the lip at the lake. My younger brother briefly appeared at the top of the trail again saying "The lake is right here!" then disppeared again.

My friend, rather sheepishly picked up and put on his pack, calling that spot "Swineboy Bend." :LOL: I've created a waypoint with that label in my Gaia acct and hence, it shall remain so until my brother and I are gone.

Feel free to carry forth with that waypoint.
 
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See, Instagram hasn't completely ruined this place because I have no clue where it is. Looks gorgeous though, hope I get a chance to do a trip like this before the snow moves in
 
See, Instagram hasn't completely ruined this place because I have no clue where it is. Looks gorgeous though, hope I get a chance to do a trip like this before the snow moves in
I agree to an extent; so far I believe it's not as bad as the Enchantments.

I learned about this place from a "100 Hikes in the... Cascades" Mountaineers publication (prior to the Wilderness designations in WA). I recall seeing 2 cross-country hikers/climbers over 4 days in 1974.

In 2013 during the same dates I saw 6-7 parties of multiple hikers in 3 days. I was deliberately vague here and didn't name specific landmarks but see dozens of photos on the web naming them.

One result of this is solo trail runners attempting the traverse I spoke of. This is a rugged and remote place. The medivac I mentioned was one of 2 "elite European climbers" as described by the Mt. Rescue team that passed by our camp who asked if we'd seen him. One started from the North, one from the South and they had planned to swap car keys when they met up in the middle. We saw the chopper heading out, and an hour later the Mt Rescue team passed by us again in the evening on its way out, over 8 miles to the parking lot, with about 2 hours of daylight left. I have been in that situation in Mt Rescue myself, IT IS NOT FUN.

Unlike the fictional Hans Brinker tale, the dyke has been breached, but I cannot bring myself to openly disclose it openly on a popular internet website.
 
Nice. Sorry you got ran out by the smoke. Beautiful area. Sadly with AI, anyone can know this lake name with just a few clicks. So for any true secret spots, be careful.
 
Looks like an amazing place to get away from the crowds. I'd love to pack a tube in there for a few days and fish a few of the larger lakes one of these years. Thanks for sharing the photos!
 
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