Setting up a Euro rod

dbaken

Life of the Party
Forum Supporter
I was the lucky winner of an Echo Shadow II 10' 3wt in the Bronco/Seahawks passing yards contest (thanks again PNW!) back in September. I want to set it up as a Euro nymphing rod, but I haven't done this style of fishing before. I was wondering if anyone had recommendations on reels and line for Euro nymphing with this rod. Hoping for quality at a reasonable price. Thank you in advance!
 
I think you'll enjoy that, congrats. I just had my Echo Carbon XL euro rod out yesterday.
For starting out, any 0-5wt reel will work, however try to balance it out where you will hold it as it is less fatiguing and easier to handle. I have the Echo Base 3/4 which is a fine little reel for this.
You don't need a euro line, see troutbitten for a mono rig. I prefer a euro line. I started with 1/2 Rio level line, but now have a DT from cortland which handles well and I can actually fly cast a fair distance. You could probably make do just fine with a light fly line to start, even the back end of a worn out WF line. Most of it seems to be in the leader.
I had just reset up my leader per Devin Olsen's Tactical Fly Fishing. 12' of 20# Maxima (chameleon), 3' 12# Amnesia ( I used 12# bright yellow stren), 18" .012" sighter material (I have 20" 0.011" cortland bi color sighter), to a tippet ring.. From that you'll run like 4' of tippet, 4x down normally, however I run a lot of 3X to the first fly as it is easier to overhead cast and swing a fly along the way.
 
Last edited:
A lot of people will recommend that you get a cheap standard reel, such as a Lamson Liquid. I strongly suggest not doing that; there are many budget euro reels available now. Good euro reels have the following attributes.
  • Tight tolerances; stops line slipping through the frame.
  • Full frame; stops line slipping through the frame.
  • Narrow spool; reduces probability of line crossing over itself and getting caught.
  • Very large arbor; reduces leader and line memory.
The best budget reels that I know of are listed below.
  • Greys Tail (3/4?)
  • Greys FIN
  • Vision Hero Nymph & Dry
  • Danielsson DryFly
Unless you plan to compete, I don't recommend using a euro line. Instead, I suggest just using a regular 3wt line and a mono rig. That will enable you to use the same outfit for dry fly fishing and other light conventional rigs. Look up the Troutbitten standard mono rig, for an explanation of how all of this works.

Do not use a factory made euro leader; they're all garbage. If you want an off the shelf solution, buy a hand tied leader from Troutbitten or Tactical Flyfisher.

Despite being a Troutbitten fanboy, I don't actually recommend the Troutbitten formula(s), for beginners; Chameleon is hard to see and all the different rigs are overwhelming. Below is a formula that I recommend.
  • 24ft+ 30lb green OPST Lazar (0.017in)
  • 24in 12lb orange Sufix Superior (0.014in)
  • 18in 8lb green Sufix Superior (0.011in)
  • 12in 8lb Cortland Tri-color (0.009in)
  • Tippet ring
  • 1-5ft 5x Rio Fluoroflex Strong (0.006in)
You can make that work for the vast majority of tight-line techniques; nymphs, dry-dropper, streamers and tight-to-the-indicator.

As you get better at casting, without fly line, you will probably want to experiment with lighter formulas. Below is what I run, now.
  • 24ft 10lb green Sunset Amnesia (0.012in)
  • 40in 10.5lb Cortland Tri-color (0.011in)
  • 20in 2x Umpqua Perform X Indicator (0.009in)
  • Tippet ring
  • 1-5ft 3-6x Fluoroflex Strong (0.008-0.005in)
 
Last edited:
Thank you Tom and Jared for sharing your knowledge, especially the leader recipes! I've ordered a Greys FIN reel, a floating line. And to start off, I'll get a couple of the hand tied leaders from Troutbitten.
 
Those two have you covered. And reel tolerance is a VERY good call out, nice reel choice you made. I’d casually recommend 25/20lb amnesia and run it 75ft or more to a loop connection at your next leader material.

Giving you the option on river or on a whim to use a 150gr Skagit head for larger water coverage. Think cutties and small mouth near Portland…Plus even if you don’t use the shooting head it’s less junctions for the fish you’ll be catching. Seldom does something in a 3wt take you on runs outside a couple rod lengths. Mono is also easier managed than backing at that length, save that junction for further down (75ft).

My echo carbon xl 3wt gets used 95% in the latter setup, I love having zero false casts or using single spey magic.
 
20lb Amnesia is probably good for heads, but no good for euro; it's far too thick. From memory, it clocks in at around 0.020".
 
When I cared to euro more I had no problems throwing 2.8t points on 20lb amnesia running. Casual reminder, stretch your amnesia.

Edit: I will say the OPST Lazar is bomb stuff, it’s expensive though and I have a hard time justifying $35 when that’s getting closer to shooting head price.
 
Last edited:
Casual reminder, stretch your amnesia.
Same as the Chameleon, good reminder. The Euro lines seems to be pretty memory free, but I give it all a stretch to straighten and check knots to begin.
 
When I cared to euro more I had no problems throwing 2.8t points on 20lb amnesia running. Casual reminder, stretch your amnesia.

Edit: I will say the OPST Lazar is bomb stuff, it’s expensive though and I have a hard time justifying $35 when that’s getting closer to shooting head price.

Once you get down to 10-12lb Amnesia, it doesn't need to be stretched anymore (assuming you're using a huge arbor euro reel). Other than sag reduction, it's the main reason that I like thinner leaders.

The cost of Lazar is hard to swallow, for sure. I think that it is only justifiable to beginners that need the visibility. It made a huge difference for me, personally. I may not have stuck with the euro trash, without it.
 
I was the lucky winner of an Echo Shadow II 10' 3wt in the Bronco/Seahawks passing yards contest (thanks again PNW!) back in September. I want to set it up as a Euro nymphing rod, but I haven't done this style of fishing before. I was wondering if anyone had recommendations on reels and line for Euro nymphing with this rod. Hoping for quality at a reasonable price. Thank you in advance!
I have this rod and just used a Redington Zero (4/5) and that reel was not heavy enough to balance the rod tip up. I bought the competition kit and used the weights, it made a huge difference on balance. I've never tried the extra rod sections.

So I'd try the reels that help balance the rod, they will be heavier than you think if you haven't used a euro rod.
 
I feel like I must be missing something, but why aren't all euro rod reel seats down-locking? Getting the reel as far back as possible would allow a lighter reel to still balance. And maybe the difference wouldn't be much, but when I've got to hold the thing up in the air all day, I'd take any weight savings I could get.
 
I feel like I must be missing something, but why aren't all euro rod reel seats down-locking? Getting the reel as far back as possible would allow a lighter reel to still balance. And maybe the difference wouldn't be much, but when I've got to hold the thing up in the air all day, I'd take any weight savings I could get.
I think your point is logical, and that 3/4" on the short end of the lever could make a difference. So many combo's possible with todays offerings probably why some reels and rods come with weights, just like up and down seats. My Echo balances perfect right at the front of the grip, like the rod and reel were designed as a set almost. The rods only 3.4 and reel 5.1, so 1/2lb, plus or minus, isn't much overall, even for this old fart. When it balances it really is light in hand, if it's tip heavy then it gets tiring on the wrist and forearm. I've been watching Devin's casting videos and really focusing on proper form and with the balanced setup it really doesn't take much to cast.
20221108_gear.jpg
 
Last edited:
I feel like I must be missing something, but why aren't all euro rod reel seats down-locking? Getting the reel as far back as possible would allow a lighter reel to still balance. And maybe the difference wouldn't be much, but when I've got to hold the thing up in the air all day, I'd take any weight savings I could get.

Down-locking reel seats cost more, because they are niche and there are less economies of scale. I think any (euro) rod over $250 should have a down-locking reel seat. That said, the Shadow II is a special case; (AFAIK) it was the first fly rod to ever have an adjustable weight system, built into the reel seat. I would still prefer that, over a down-locking reel seat.
 
Last edited:
My first ever fly rod had a down locking reel seat. I really liked that for a set up. But that was in 1957. That fly rod is in a land fill someplace in Washington state. That was before I ever heard of warranties. It was a 2 piece rod that broke above the middle. I just shit canned it and bought another.
 
Back
Top