Line Modifications

Long_Rod_Silvers

Long_Rod_Silvers

Elder Millennial
Forum Supporter
One thing I'll openly admit I'm not very knowledgeable on is how to manipulate lines. I buy a line out of a box and if I like it great, if not I move on. If it has an issue I usually throw it in a pile and replace it. No idea how to splice or DIY a welded loop or customize them in any way...

Curious if anyone out there has any tips or tricks on how they customize lines. I kind of want to start tinkering with some of the older lines I have laying around and see if I can come up with something fun.
 
If I'm welding, it's always with Airflo. They just weld far easier than anything else. The worst is Rio (they seem to come in last for a lot of things). I just have some shrink wrap, heat gun and go to work. Then very carefully cut the shrink wrap off. There are a couple of youtube videos that I based it off of. great for making tips with Airflo's T material with loops.
 
 
Long_Rod_Silvers said:
One thing I'll openly admit I'm not very knowledgeable on is how to manipulate lines. I buy a line out of a box and if I like it great, if not I move on. If it has an issue I usually throw it in a pile and replace it. No idea how to splice or DIY a welded loop or customize them in any way...

Curious if anyone out there has any tips or tricks on how they customize lines. I kind of want to start tinkering with some of the older lines I have laying around and see if I can come up with something fun.
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I've been modifying and building lines for a long time now. Here are some thoughts.


Tools of the trade.

A good adjustable heat gun.
A grain scale
Polyolofin tubing of various sizes
Digital micrometer
Lines of all coating type
A knowledge of what you need and want coupled with disposable time and income

My thoughts

While at one time this was a necessity for not just niche fisheries but for any angler wanting something specific. It is not really necessary anymore though. Why? Well about any taper and line combo is made commercially available anymore. The skill is very beneficial for mending lines though so it's not for nothing. If you have specific questions I'll do my best to answer them.
 
An unpopular opinion for single hand setups, so your mileage may vary:

I cut off a lot of the back of the running line, unless it’s a sinking line and I actually need or want the ability to get down stupid deep or troll behind a boat far, far away (and even then I’ll probably cut off some). Some lines (especially you, Airflo) are too long in my book (seriously, 120+ feet for a trout line?), and I’ve never cast that far in my life, let alone to a fish. I’d rather save the weight and reel capacity.

If it’s a 7-13wt line, I’ll cut it down to 90’ (10 on the rod, 80 out the tip.) I can’t cast with much accuracy past that (or even at that), especially with the biggest rods, and if a fish is that far away I can wait or pass on it.

If it’s a 4/5/6 weight line, I usually cut the back off until I’ve got a 80’ line. (10 on the rod, 70 out the tip)

If it’s a 1/2/3 weight line, I would cut it down to 50 or 60’. I can’t remember the last time I needed or wanted to make a 60’ cast with a 3wt, but if I had to I could shoot some backing.
 
Dr. Magill said:
I agree with Chromers. You can buy just about any kind of line you want nowadays
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For sure. I think the allure for me is that I have quite a few lines laying around that I've always wondered if I could turn into an arsenal of short heads to single hand spey w/ the little rods via a few splices. Sure I could just go buy a bunch of commando heads, but I've got the lines and most of the tools around so hopefully I can put some of the old lines to use as fun little single hand spey heads.

Like you and @Dustin Chromers mention, I need a grain scale. That will get me in the door to cut/splice some lines.
 
cole_p said:
@clarkman would the diy welded loop technique using shrink wrap and heatgun/ lighter work with a sink tip? Specifically the airflo streamer max short from last year.

Airflo line: https://airflousa.com/airflo-streamer-max-fast-sinking-fly-lines.html
Welded loop diy: https://globalflyfisher.com/fish-better/welding-your-loops
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Yeah, it works fine (heat gun is much better than a lighter), but on my streamer max short, I ended up just tying a short section of 30lb fluoro via albright once I cut it back. Tied properly, it's just as smooth as a loop (if not smoother) going through the guides with less work.
 
Jake said:
An unpopular opinion for single hand setups, so your mileage may vary:

I cut off a lot of the back of the running line, unless it’s a sinking line and I actually need or want the ability to get down stupid deep or troll behind a boat far, far away (and even then I’ll probably cut off some). Some lines (especially you, Airflo) are too long in my book (seriously, 120+ feet for a trout line?), and I’ve never cast that far in my life, let alone to a fish. I’d rather save the weight and reel capacity.

If it’s a 7-13wt line, I’ll cut it down to 90’ (10 on the rod, 80 out the tip.) I can’t cast with much accuracy past that (or even at that), especially with the biggest rods, and if a fish is that far away I can wait or pass on it.

If it’s a 4/5/6 weight line, I usually cut the back off until I’ve got a 80’ line. (10 on the rod, 70 out the tip)

If it’s a 1/2/3 weight line, I would cut it down to 50 or 60’. I can’t remember the last time I needed or wanted to make a 60’ cast with a 3wt, but if I had to I could shoot some backing.
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you could just cut them all back to 60', then you can brag to your friends how often you have to cast to your backing while you're fishing.
 
clarkman said:
Yeah, it works fine (heat gun is much better than a lighter), but on my streamer max short, I ended up just tying a short section of 30lb fluoro via albright once I cut it back. Tied properly, it's just as smooth as a loop (if not smoother) going through the guides with less work.
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How much do you typically cut back your streamer max's? I know it's relative to the rod...
 
Long_Rod_Silvers said:
For sure. I think the allure for me is that I have quite a few lines laying around that I've always wondered if I could turn into an arsenal of short heads to single hand spey w/ the little rods via a few splices. Sure I could just go buy a bunch of commando heads, but I've got the lines and most of the tools around so hopefully I can put some of the old lines to use as fun little single hand spey heads.

Like you and @Dustin Chromers mention, I need a grain scale. That will get me in the door to cut/splice some lines.
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You’ll enjoy the journey
Lots of learning
 
mcswny said:
How much do you typically cut back your streamer max's? I know it's relative to the rod...
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depends on the rod. For example, the 7wt, I cut ~4' off to match with my BAG Quickshot 7wt. Works VERY well. Fortunately, it actually works great with my uber fast graphite 7wt too (just have to adjust my stroke a touch). It works oddly well with my 6wt bamboo rod too...

I didn't touch the 10wt version, but it was only a 380gr head, which I already knew would be great on my primary tiger musky rod.
 
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clarkman said:
on my streamer max short, I ended up just tying a short section of 30lb fluoro via albright
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Then do you have a perfection loop the end of the 30lb fluoro? That’s what Im running with now. I’d prefer having a welded loop but wasn’t aware one could DIY the loop with relative ease.
 
cole_p said:
Then do you have a perfection loop the end of the 30lb fluoro? That’s what Im running with now. I’d prefer having a welded loop but wasn’t aware one could DIY the loop with relative ease.
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I generally do a non-slip loop because I can get it smaller and the tag end comes off at an angle instead of 90 degrees out to the side, which can catch on the guides.

but yeah, it's really easy to do the loop. If you go that route, buy some T material from them and get your technique down before diving into the actual line you want tot use.
 
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