Highway to Headwater

This trip has been in the works (at least in my brain) for almost two years. A few years back my son and I started fishing some roadless stretches of our new home water and we fell in love with it. That was also about the time I got exposed to backpack hunting. It kicked off a phase of my life where spending time in remote places was all I could think about. I was and still am looking for any excuse to put on a pack and disappear for a week. After our second trip up there I started poking around on OnX to see how much roadless or remote fishing there was available on our new home river. Based on the maps it looked like there was around Twenty five to twenty seven miles of river that was either totally roadless or very little road access. I had no idea how much of it held fish but I really wanted to find out and I didn't want to piece it together one stretch at a time over three or four summers...I wanted to fish it all in one shot.

Over the course of the next few months I started asking anyone who had spent a lot of time up there, if they had ever fished the entire length in one trip or had they ever heard of anyone doing it. The consensus amongst the people I checked with was, they had never considered it themselves, never heard of anyone doing it, and most asked why I would want to. Many warned me that the trail leaves the river for long sections or that the trail was really high above the river and some of the upper sections didn’t have a trail at all. Trails, or lack of trails, was totally irrelevant to me. I had no intention of using any trails. My plan was always to stay in the river and fish it all. Lots of folks questioned wether or not you could walk/wade/fish effectively with a pack the size that would be required for a six day trip. I had already decided I was going to do this trip. The more people implied I was crazy, the more excited I became. All I needed was a partner for this trip and I knew who I wanted.

I called my son in the fall of last year and laid out the plan. It took him five seconds to say yes. All we had left was to find the time in his schedule. He’s getting married in early July and moving to Arizona in early August. We had a two week window to fit it in but that window would have been my first choice anyway so we chose June 2nd as our launch date! One of the fun parts of a big trip is the discussion and planning in the months leading up to the actual trip. My son and I were talking weekly about our plan, it was awesome. I had a couple of big hunting trips this spring and many days I found myself sitting behind my glass dreaming of this trip when I should have been focused on bears.

Finally June 1st arrives, the day we shuttle a rig and actually find out if all of the planning has a shot of working. I was pretty anxious as we left for the three hour drive. The plan was to leave a rig as close as we could to our intended ending point. It looked like we could get a rig within a mile or two of that spot but neither of us had ever been up there and maps can be wrong. There were a few things things that could have derailed the plan and the big one was getting a rig close to the end point. We were going to be dropped off at the launch point on Monday morning so there wasn’t any rig to come back to. We had to get to the end and there had to be a vehicle there when we arrived.

We made our way to the pin I dropped on OnX with zero problems! One stress relieved. On Saturday night I decided I would stash a cooler with some sausage, tortillas and a stick of butter at one of the two places the road crossed the river. I assumed we would arrive there late day two or early day three and something fresh with high calories might be nice. I hate freeze dried meals! On the way back we stopped at that spot and found a good hiding place for the small Yeti. All we had left to do was to was get home, double check packs and attempt to sleep. The stoke level was on 100.

There was one more variable to this trip that I had never dealt with and that was a cinematographer. My son and I had planned on documenting this trip ourselves. We have the equipment to do it and my son is a really good film editor but during the planning process I decided that I didn’t want to fuss with that part. There is a chance we won’t get to do something like this for quite a while and I really wanted to focus on fishing with my boy. There were already some new variables to deal with and I didn’t want more but I wanted our experience captured. I had met Jeff a year ago when I was a guest on a podcast that he filmed. The podcast is hosted by a good friend so I contacted him about hiring Jeff when I had the idea of contracting the filming. Jeff’s work is awesome, he has filmed lots of hunts in brutal conditions and he spent some years as a fishing guide in Bozeman so he seemed like the right guy for this kind of trip. He turned out to be the perfect guy for us!
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We had agreed to leave my place at 7:00 am Monday and Jeff arrives ten minutes late, typical artist behavior. I bust his balls a little until he tells me that his Sunday noon flight arrived at 3:45 Monday morning and he was going on two hours of sleep. That knowledge had me rethinking the day one plan as my future daughter-in-law drives us to our drop off point. I really didn’t want to kill a guy I barely know on the first day of a trip that doesn’t have an exit plan. He assures me he’ll be fine and I assure him that we’ll ease our way into the trip. We can make up time later if need be.

We arrive at the spot by 10:00 am and by 10:15 we’re packs on and heading upriver. The weather is about as god as you could ask for, the flows are perfect, excitement is high, but there’s also a little anxiety for the unknown. Our ride has left and my rig is 24 miles away with us on foot. I have only seen about nine of the twenty four miles ahead of us. I’m responsible for my son and a dude I don’t really know who has a young family. He looks the part but you never know.

None of us has ever done what we’re attempting to do. Neither my son nor I have done a backcountry fishing trip of this length. Jeff and I have done plenty of hunting trips like this but never fishing. Jeff has never filmed anything fly fishing related, my son and I have only filmed each other and Jeff has no idea if either one of us can fish a lick…what could possibly go wrong.

I wasn’t worried about catching fish but I wasn’t sure what fishing with a 50# pack would feel like. I assumed walking the river with that pack was going to suck a little. The plan was that we would basically hole hop and that would allow us to drop our packs to fish that hole/run etc. as well as give Jeff the opportunity to get set up to film. We would sacrifice some water that we would normally fish if we were just fishing for the day without heavy packs. After all, we had 24 miles ahead of us and lots of days to fish. It didn’t take long before we forgot all about our packs and were fishing everything we could, running and gunning as if we weren’t wearing packs.

The fishing wasn’t stellar on day one but we soon cracked the code and were catching fish. We even caught a couple really nice 17-18” fish with great colors. By late afternoon we were beginning to find a rhythm with each other and it was starting to feel like we could be embarking on something epic. Around 3:00 I slipped on some rocks while carrying the net and snapped that sucker right at the basket and handle joint. What a jack-wagon! IMG_9469.jpegDODD1090-2.jpegIMG_9377.jpeg
 
Around 6:00 pm there was a pretty solid hatch of several different mayflies and fish were feeding. I hooked a decent fish and almost had it to the bank when another fish of significant size attacked it. Keel was upstream from me and Jeff was between us. I was gong nuts trying to get the words out to describe what I was seeing. On the drive up I had told the guys that I really wanted to witness a Bull Trout attack. I can’t honestly say that’s what I saw because I didn’t get a great look at the chasing fish and I have seen cutties chase as well, especially when you’re fishing a tandem fly rig, and I was. On quite a few occasions I have had a fish eat the top fly and a second fish try to eat the bottom fly while fighting a fish.
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At that point in the day I had scratched the fish itch and I was thinking about where we might camp. I offered Jeff my rod while I looked at OnX to see where we were. He gladly jumped on the opportunity to fish. I had a hunch there would be a decent camp spot close to where we were presently as we had popped out of a canyon and into a small meadow. I watched Jeff and Keel catch a few fish before we headed for camp.

I told the fellas I thought we were only a quarter mile from a good spot to spend the night. Keel pipes up, “Jeff, you’re going to hear, it’s only another quarter mile at least fifty times this week, don’t believe him”. My family calls me the “quarter mile guy”. They claim that’s my standard response to any question regarding distance to anything while hiking. They also claim that I’m not telling truth and the insinuation is that I’m completely aware of my lies. I admit that sometimes things are indeed farther than a quarter mile but in my head I believe that statement is true at the time I make it…whatever. Maybe I’ve earned the title of “quarter mile guy” but I have never deceived anyone on purpose. In less than 300 yards we wind up at the perfect camp spot and I let everyone know about the distance.

Keel gets on the fire while Jeff and I put up the shelter. We get camp set fairly fast and we’re waiting for freeze dried meals to reconstitute when I remember that I had heard the Northern Lights were visible again. Jeff tells us he’s never seen the lights and asks us to awaken him if we see them because as soon as he’s done eating he’s hitting the sack. Jeff finishes his bag of poop dinner and heads to bed. Keel and I stay up poking the fire while listening to music and discussing the next day.
Oh yeah, we have a Bose speaker! One luxury of having a twenty-two year old ex-college football player on a trip is that they make packing decisions based on wants, not needs and weight is of zero concern. He asked me if I wanted to bring a speaker. Our family’s second language is music but I told him that was weight I was unwilling to carry and neither should he. If it doesn’t warm you, feed you, or hydrate you, don’t carry it. He laughed and threw it in his pack. The kids say, “it’s a vibe dad”. I’m understanding it now as we listen to our favorite tunes in the background of a crackling fire while recapping dry-fly eats from earlier in the day…it is a vibe!
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It’s around 10:30 when I begin to notice that it’s not really getting dark. This is what happened the last time I experienced the Northern Lights while in the backcountry, it started by simply not getting dark. We walked away from the glow of the fire and allowed our eyes to adjust. Sure enough, it was faint, but we could begin to see some color and our phones were the proof as they capture light we couldn’t see. Keel asks me if we should awaken Jeff. I didn’t feel like what we were seeing warranted awaking a dude who had been through the gauntlet over the last 48 hours so we let him sleep. The lights never intensified but we both saw the coolest shooting star either of us had ever seen.
We hooped and hollered about that for another ten minutes and turned in ourselves. As we were turning our headlamps off and zipping up bags I asked Keel what he thought about the first day. He told me it was awesome. I replied back to him with, the best part is we’re going to do this over and over all week.
 
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Great write up so far, really enjoying it and I love fishing that system. Hoping you do a little bit of a breakdown of your gear if you have time or things that you would do again or not do. This is perfect timing though, I'm headed out there tonight and staying till Tuesday evening. My buddy is not much of a hiker though so just going a few miles in. Excited to read the rest!
 
In typical old man fashion, I’m up with the light, re-lightning the fire and making coffee. One of my backcountry “hacks” is to carry an insulated water bottle. They make some that are just as light as a Nalgene but keep hot hot and cold cold. I like to have hot coffee with breakfast but the timing sucks if you can’t keep your coffee hot while waiting for breakfast to finish hydrating. An insulated water bottle serves as a one liter coffee carafe keeping the coffee hot for as long as necessary. They also double as a roller for stiff IT bands and glutes.

I get a pot of coffee and eat breakfast while enjoying the sun and wood smoke. I bust out my own camera and take a few photos expecting to hear stirring from the shelter at any time. I have been up for over an hour at this point. I’m chill but also a little eager to get the day rolling so I set a cup of coffee just inside the door of the tent, go back to the fire and bust out the speaker. When the kids were all at home and I decided it was time for everyone to get up on a Saturday, usually after I had made breakfast, I would start raising the volume on the music until they got the point. Eventually, these dudes figured it out as well.

Jeff was grateful for the coffee, extended rest and music selection. He barely had the sleep out of his eyes before he was behind his camera filming. He worked hard like this for the entire trip. We discussed the plan for the day and began to break camp. I had been through today’s section and knew what we were in for as far as some tough river walking. We would enter another canyon section where there would be no walking the bank. The rock would be big, the water would be deeper, and the drop steeper, it’s a slog without heavy packs. I knew it would be slow going with our packs. However, I expected the fishing to be really good and it did not disappoint, at least not for Keel. I spent a good part of the day on the struggle bus.

I have a tendency to get bull headed at times when I have decided how I want to catch e’m. This trip was all about dry flies and I decided I’m going to catch them how I want or not at all. Keel is more open minded and is ok catching fish any way necessary. I was up first on a super nice long run. I was fishing a Goddard Caddis with a Parachute Adams trailer. I got rejected by big fish on my first 3 drifts…hmmm. Keel is fishing a chubby with a nymph dropper so I let him give it a go and he’s chubby down five feet into his first drift and it’s a big one! We are landing fish with the basket of a net with no handle due to my spill the day before. Every fish is a goat rope but I can honestly say that the net never cost us a fish for the whole trip. I lost my fair share of fish but never due to the net. The fish on Tuesday was very hit and miss for me but Keel smashed e’m that day and I was happy to watch him do it and be his net boy!DSC_2441.jpeg
We end up making it to our stashed Yeti around 6:00 pm that day. We snatch the goods and continue up stream for another half mile or so to what will be our next camp site. On the way we get sidetracked by a sick spinner fall that had a ton of fish up and feeding. We caught a few more fish and climbed out of the river to get everything setup for the evening. There was one more luxury item that we would have on this night. I had packed a pint of tequila that would mix with our Lemon Lime Mountain Opps Ignite. Dinner would be sausages on buttered hot tortillas and Mtn. Opps margaritas with some tunes riverside. At this point I had really settled into the trip and was feeling pretty damn fortunate to be where I was.DSC_2369.jpegDSC_2372.jpegIMG_9472.jpeg
 
When I get up Wednesday morning, I know we’re behind schedule for mileage but I also know that this day will put us in my favorite section of thesystem so far. I haven’t seen it all but of what I have seen, this is my favorite. I tell the fellas that we’re going to fish hard but faster and at the end of the day we might have to put our heads down and skip some water or we could end up two days overdue. We’re only seven miles into the trip starting day three. I believe we have 18-19 miles remaining but that’s an estimate and I also know nothing about miles 14 through 26. My strategy is that we should enjoy this section to it’s fullest but be prepared for a sucky grind in the dark in order to get back on track with days remaining and mileage.

This leg of the trip has an extended meadow section with some steep canyons at the top. It also has some mind blowing rock formations and scenery. It’s a photographers paradise and a fisherman’s dream. The meadow section feels like you’re fishing a magazine and the top end feels like you’re fishing Jurassic Park. It’s an absolutely stunning contrast.

We roll up to the first run and I get smoked on my first cast of the day. Jeff was over my left shoulder and got the eat on 60 frames per second slo-mo. The lighting was perfect, the eat was classic and it was a really nice heavy 16” fish. That was a microcosm of the day. It was big fish after big fish all day long. The fishing became so predictable that Jeff was able to capture some 200 frames per second eats but that takes up a ton of memory. At one point Jeff made us stop in the early afternoon so he could delete footage. He had filled a 1 terabyte card but 2:00 pm that day. DODD1737.jpegDSC_2469.jpegDSC_2461.jpeg

At some point during that day I had my fill and dug out my camera to start taking my own photo’s. It was a fun day but in the early evening I looked at the map and reality struck…we hadn’t gone very far. We had a powwow and devised a plan to get up the river. We set some rules for fishing which immediately got broken by me. We were in new water and I simply couldn’t help myself. Finally around 6:30 we all dropped the hammer and covered some ground.

We go hard for a couple of hours and I’m beginning to feel something akin to a shin splint in my right leg and my left Achilles is starting to hurt pretty bad as well. These are not new sensations to me but nothing I have dealt with in recent years. I’m in pretty good shape and have done some serious miles this year while chasing bears but this walking through the water was an entirely different deal. I knew it would be but I didn’t know how it would affect me. Around 8:00 pm I told the fellas we were setting up at the next flat spot regardless of aesthetics, I was gassed. Fortunately we stumbled onto an amazing spot on the far side of the river and we set up shop for the night.

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Sitting around the fire that night was awesome! We had an amazing day of fishing. We had emptied our tanks and got ourselves back on schedule as far as we knew and we were having a great time getting to know our new friend Jeff.

That night was cold but morning came with blue skies and the anticipation of fishing brand new water for the remainder of the trip. The day started out slow as the canyon walls shaded the water for the first half mile. We eventually broke out into a new big meadow section and the water began to look different for the first time. You could really see and feel the changes of the last 12-15 miles. The water was also noticeably colder despite the air temp being warmer than the days prior. We had fished most of the morning without so much as a sniff from a fish. We saw no bugs to speak of and with the lack of bugs there were no risers to tip us off.

I crossed the river and wandered ahead with some pace as I was starting to wonder if we had ventured far enough upstream that the fish would be far and few. I saw some S curves ahead and as I was approaching I saw a nose break the surface of an oily current along a grassy bank. I sat there for a second and started noticing a bunch of really small pale yellow stones. These were like size 16 or smaller. I don’t carry anything like that. I’ll be honest, I have never seen that variation of stonefly. I see the fellas headed upstream and let them know they are about to walk up on a riser.

I go way back down stream and get on their side as that’s the side that you would have to be on to fish to this fish. We sit there and watch him rise and then we start to see additional fish in the pod. They all look like good fish but nothing giant. Secretly, I’m hoping they’re picky and make us work to catch them. I get my way! Jeff says the lighting and set up is perfect for getting those slow cinematic type eats so we set up and settle in to work on these fish. After an hour goes by I finally get a bug that makes one eat and we land it. Amazing footage. A few fly changes later and another 30 minutes goes by and Keel get the biggest one in the bunch to eat and he misses the hook set. It was so much fun to work those fish in such a unique setting from the previous three days. The stoke level was back to 100 and we’ve only netted 1 fish by noon.

The rest of the day was nothing short of spectacular. We caught a quarter of the numbers we had been catching but the quality of the fish, the kind of eats we were getting and the settings we were catching them in was as much fun as I’ve ever had. A skated Crain Fly wound up being the MVP of the day and that busted net was honorable mention. DSC_2504.jpegDSC_2513.jpegDODD1687.jpeg
When a cutthroat’s skin begins to develop wrinkles you know it’s an old fish and they tend to be on the larger side.

Unfortunately, due to the epic fishing we found ourselves giving back all the progress we had made from the day prior and we were back to being behind schedule again. It was time to make up ground in the evening again. With all the excitement of the days fishing I hadn’t noticed my legs feeling worse and worse. I mean, I did but I didn’t care because we were having so much fun. Now that we were back in hurry up mode, I was slowing the operation considerably. I hate being the weak link but I was hurting so half speed became full speed. We eventually covered the ground we needed to and made our final camp. IMG_9373.jpegIMG_9387.jpegIMG_9389.jpeg

Turned out to be the most mosquito infested places I have ever been in my life! I got chewed to hell despite using spray. The boys wore their rain jackets til dark when they backed off a bit.
 
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The morning of day 5 started just like the previous 4. I got up, started the fire and made coffee. It was really cold that morning. I was pretty dang sore and moving gingerly.I made no attempt to awaken the boys as I sat drinking my coffee and replaying the hi-lights of the previous 4 days. It was a really enjoyable time to reflect on the trip.

This is the last trip I will do with my son as our relationship has been up to this point. He will soon be married, they’re moving to Arizona where his wife will spend the next four years in vet school. Right before we left he was notified he’d been selected for the job he’d interviewed for 5 times since late April. It’s a real big boy position in a real career field and he’s going to be hustling his ass off for quite a while. We won’t get to see much of each other for a few years. I couldn’t be more proud of him and this trip turned out to be everything we could have possibly hoped for. This kind of activity was what I always dreamed of doing with my boys. Football put it off for a while but we had finally done it. All that was left was to complete the final leg and catch fish as high as we possibly could.

We were 20 miles up river and things had changed quite a bit. The river had narrowed significantly but the depth was still amazing with lots of deep buckets. There was beginning to be a lot of deadfall spanning the banks and travel was slow. That was fine with me because I was hurting pretty bad. The water was quite a bit colder even from the day before and the bugs were very sparse. We scratched and clawed our way up river for a few more miles and we caught a handful of fish but they were the smallest of the trip. There was a point where the river came back to the road were were parked on and I made the suggestion we finish the last mile on the road and see what we could catch above where the truck was and without packs. Everyone reluctantly agreed. We were at the point of the trip where we were continuing to fish only because that’s what we said we were going to do.

My vehicle was a sight for sore eyes and it had a cooler of cold water in it. We took a final photo and headed for the closest establishment that was two hours of FS road away. Keel would have to sneak in to the tavern as he lost his Croks on day 3 so all he had were his wading boots. He was certain the “no shoes no service” rule would be enforced on him. They served him despite being barefoot.
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This is awesome! What did you decide on for footwear?
Thanks!

I wound up buying the Simms Freestone with a rubber sole and I screwed in studs. I bought a size smaller than normal since I was wearing wading socks rather than waders. I didn’t want them to be sloppy on my feet. The toe box on that boot is wide and the length of the smaller size was good. I also put a pair of Danner fatigue fighter insoles in the boots. That’s the same insole I put in my Crispi’s for hunting.

I also wore backcountry skinz and I loved them. The mornings were cold and the water was colder. We also had to go through a ton of Devils Club at times. Mosquitoes were also a non factor on my legs. I bought a pair for Keel and he liked them too but they made him chafe really bad. I remember the days of having quadzillas but my muscle mass has shrunken with age and those days are gone for me so chafing wasn’t an issue.

My shin splint issue and Achilles pain were simply a function of my feet being put through continuous ranges of motion that they aren’t accustomed to. All those trail miles I did in April and May were nothing like walking the river for 24 miles.
 
Great write up so far, really enjoying it and I love fishing that system. Hoping you do a little bit of a breakdown of your gear if you have time or things that you would do again or not do. This is perfect timing though, I'm headed out there tonight and staying till Tuesday evening. My buddy is not much of a hiker though so just going a few miles in. Excited to read the rest!
If it was just me and another guy I would have left the big shelter at home. A backpackers tarp and sleep system would have saved me a few pounds and made camping sites easier to find. The teepee is nice but its a bigger footprint so requires more space. I brought the teepee as the camera man requested it so he could pack more battery power and additional lenses.

We set out to do something specific. Now that I have done that I would do the same number of days over fewer miles. We walked by some really good fishing.

A backpackers backpack would save some weight as well. We used our hunting packs as that’s what we have. Hunting packs are built to carry heavy loads. My pack is made by KUIU and it’s a 6000 cubic inch bag. My son’s is an XO K4 with a 5000 cubic inch bag. I like his better than mine but I also know mine inside and out. Hunting packs are lighter than ever but not as light as a through hiker’s pack would be.

I would also stash some more supplies along the way. I’m stubborn and I like to do things the hard way. I really wanted to do this unsupported because I’m an A-hole but having done it now I would have carried less and stashed more supplies where I could. That’s said, if you have everything you need on your back, you’re free of a schedule and that’s liberating.
 
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The last photos remind me of a favorite high mountain Cuttie stream back home. Favorite stretch was a couple miles of wading; once you entered there was no getting out. Thanks for triggering those memories.
 
The last photos remind me of a favorite high mountain Cuttie stream back home. Favorite stretch was a couple miles of wading; once you entered there was no getting out. Thanks for triggering those memories.
Sounds like an amazing place.
 
Glad you were able to make it happen and share an incredible adventure with your son. I am sure you two will be talking about it in the years to come.
 
Thank you so much for this fantastic report. The picture you painted in our minds shows your great skills in writing.

It brought back some of my forest stomping memories, long forgotten.
 
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