Grayling & Cutts Up in the Hills

A buddy and I have been planning on doing this trip for about 4-5 years, maybe longer. It's the one and only place in Washington that has grayling, and we both enjoy a little backcountry time, so it was a good fit for what we like out of a trip. We tried it a few years back, but the major stream crossing was too high so we bailed and said we'd come back again in the next year or two. This last weekend it was time.

The hike starts as an old logging grade for the first mile(ish). Nothing too special. Then you get to the first stream crossing. The crossing is about waist deep, and its a very steep gradient stream which was running pretty high. From there, you've got about 6 miles (roughly 4k feet of vertical gain), which is almost all bushwacking up an old overgrown logging grade - brutal. There were patches where there'd be 50-75 yards of somewhat open area to walk through, and you'd think "hey, this is nice".... But then there were long stretches of getting your ankles and face destroyed by thick underbrush, branches, sticks and fallen logs. Not to mention the mosquitoes were out in full force.

It wasn't all ugly though. After you get off the old logging grade, you get to the first lake. The first lake is a small gin clear lake that is full of small cutthroat. There's a camp site at this lake, so if you wanted to break the trip into two legs, this would be a decent spot to setup camp.
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From that first lake, the hike opens up into old growth. You're done with the heavy bushwacking. The route from the first lake shoots up about 650 feet in about 700 yards scrambling on a boulder field. It was steep, but it was fun - all old growth and just breath taking scenery.
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Once we finished bouldering up the slope, we hit the summit. From there it was a nice walk down through old growth with frogs and snakes and woodpeckers and all other sorts of wildlife that made the walk down to the camp by the lake enjoyable.

All in all, it took us just over ten hours to go 8.2 miles, up 5000 vertical feet to get from the truck up to our camp for the next couple days. We don't hike fast, but that was slow for us.

I brought the packraft because it was a decent size lake, and I wanted the ability to move around on the lake and not be limited by lack of back casting room along the shore. While it did add some weight, I was glad I brought it. It got us access out to the drop off by the inlet, and there was another really nice bay not to far away from our camp that we were able to access w/ the pack raft that we wouldn't have been able to fish very well had we opted not to bring the raft. So even though it added about 7 pounds, it was worth it (IMHO).
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We got unpacked, got the packraft inflated and started by fishing the drop off along the inlet w/ a olive BH soft hackle. Was just using it as a searching pattern as I wanted to 'check the box' of catching a grayling and didn't care too much about how it happened, just wanted to get one to hand. Didn't take long before the first grayling was hooked.
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Caught several more the first afternoon, we were mostly just sight fishing along the drop off. The water was so clear (I'd guess I could see 30-40 feet deep) that with the sun out, the fish cruising along the drop off were easily spotted. A cast out in front of their general direction of travel would typically lead to a fish on. It was a freaking hoot.

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After catching a handful of grayling and cutts, we set up camp and relaxed and did some searching around camp - found a really cool back bay with a channel moving through it that was full from all the water coming from the inlet. There was quite a few fish that were in the channel. We sat for a while, sipping on whiskey watching the fish eat and do what they do.

1721062479440.png
(yes, those are all fish swimming back and forth in the channel).

After that we headed back to camp and rested up. The mosquitoes were out in full force, but it wasn't so bad that I ever really got annoyed with them. They were just always around and on you.

The next day we tried a little bit of everything, dries, streamers, chironomids, etc. It all worked. Everything worked. It was sight fishing heaven.

This fish moved about 15 feet to take the black ant.
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Thought the bobber community needed to represent, so spent some time with the bobber on.
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Got into the streamer game. Had some fish move a really long way to hit the streamers.
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The water was so clear it was almost distracting. You could see 100% of the take and the fight, which was really cool. This fish hit at the drop off where it goes from about 10 feet down to 40 feet (quickly).
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Spent some time stripping nymphs along the drop off.
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We even got into a few that were in a little bigger size class.
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The fish really weren't very particular about what they were eating. As long as you got the fly in front of them without spooking them, you had a pretty good chance at catching one. With the exception of the chironomids, it was 100% sight fishing in crystal clear water. The fish would spook if the cast was sloppy, but if your cast was good you'd probably get a look from the fish. We fished on and off for the day, along with some general exploration of the lake in the raft, some swimming and exploring around the camp. Wind picked up a bit in the late afternoon, which was a nice short reprieve from the mosquitoes. Went back out in the raft and caught a few more that evening. Had a fantastic meal, drank some whiskey by the fire and hit the sack, overall it was a pretty epic day.

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Next day we got up, ate some breakfast and packed up for the long hike home. It ended up going a lot better on the way back down because we had flagged our trail on the way up, so it was quite a bit quicker getting back out. Even the long stretch of bushwacking didn't suck as bad on the way down.
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All in all, while it was a fantastic trip. While the hike up had long stretches that wasn't that great, there were portions of it that were fantastic. The view from camp was pretty slick (below), and the fishing was fantastic. The fishing was so good it got to the point where I felt like I'd had enough and was completely content going home (which is rare for me). Was a bit of a bucket list trip for me and my buddy, so we're both stoked we got 'er done.
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Great report and pictures, thanks! I've never been there and certainly won't even try so it's wonderful to live vicariously through your report!
 
The story behind the stocking of the grayling in 1946. Ole Eide worked for the Department of Game from 1934 to 1969.

[Ole Eide] got 55,000 1-inch grayling fry from Tokul creek hatchery and rented a plane at Bellingham. They (sic) he rigged uo (sic) some parachutes and made a pass or two at the large xxxxxxx, dropping some fish by parachute. He also tried some free drop, but due to lack of proper equipment to release the fish, some of them missed the lake, and others he wasn't sure exactly what happened. At any rate, he persisted until he finally concluded that he had most of his fish in the lake. Ernie Walcott, 6 March 1956 letter to John Ward.
 
The story behind the stocking of the grayling in 1946. Ole Eide worked for the Department of Game from 1934 to 1969.

[Ole Eide] got 55,000 1-inch grayling fry from Tokul creek hatchery and rented a plane at Bellingham. They (sic) he rigged uo (sic) some parachutes and made a pass or two at the large xxxxxxx, dropping some fish by parachute. He also tried some free drop, but due to lack of proper equipment to release the fish, some of them missed the lake, and others he wasn't sure exactly what happened. At any rate, he persisted until he finally concluded that he had most of his fish in the lake. Ernie Walcott, 6 March 1956 letter to John Ward.
That's awesome!
 
That’s an amazing trip! Awesome pictures of scenery, gin clear water and of course the fish! Your whiskey breaks sounded perfect……made my old body hurt reading of the hike!
 
Cool post. Thanks for sharing. Beautiful fish and such a beautiful spot. Looks like a hike I need to prepare for.
 
Great report, know 2 guys that hiked into some lakes in the 90's that had Graylings. Said it was about 4-5 K up and a brutal walk. I know the road was opened a few weeks ago by some guys on another site. Then someone chopped a tree down to block the road again?

Any way this place these guys went to was talked about on a hiking forum maybe 10 yrs ago. There is or was an old video of a Ultra lite landing on the upper I think. Sketchy, I rode over the lower part of the river/stream last week it was flowing good. I looked up in the Mtns I thought about the Grays.

Sounds like the same place, the J lakes.
 
Sometimes tough hikes are just tough hikes with no real “payday” other than the satisfaction of completion. It’s awesome when the struggle has a real reward at the end of it. Thanks for sharing.
 
A buddy and I have been planning on doing this trip for about 4-5 years, maybe longer. It's the one and only place in Washington that has grayling, and we both enjoy a little backcountry time, so it was a good fit for what we like out of a trip. We tried it a few years back, but the major stream crossing was too high so we bailed and said we'd come back again in the next year or two. This last weekend it was time.

The hike starts as an old logging grade for the first mile(ish). Nothing too special. Then you get to the first stream crossing. The crossing is about waist deep, and its a very steep gradient stream which was running pretty high. From there, you've got about 6 miles (roughly 4k feet of vertical gain), which is almost all bushwacking up an old overgrown logging grade - brutal. There were patches where there'd be 50-75 yards of somewhat open area to walk through, and you'd think "hey, this is nice".... But then there were long stretches of getting your ankles and face destroyed by thick underbrush, branches, sticks and fallen logs. Not to mention the mosquitoes were out in full force.

It wasn't all ugly though. After you get off the old logging grade, you get to the first lake. The first lake is a small gin clear lake that is full of small cutthroat. There's a camp site at this lake, so if you wanted to break the trip into two legs, this would be a decent spot to setup camp.
View attachment 121283

From that first lake, the hike opens up into old growth. You're done with the heavy bushwacking. The route from the first lake shoots up about 650 feet in about 700 yards scrambling on a boulder field. It was steep, but it was fun - all old growth and just breath taking scenery.
View attachment 121253

Once we finished bouldering up the slope, we hit the summit. From there it was a nice walk down through old growth with frogs and snakes and woodpeckers and all other sorts of wildlife that made the walk down to the camp by the lake enjoyable.

All in all, it took us just over ten hours to go 8.2 miles, up 5000 vertical feet to get from the truck up to our camp for the next couple days. We don't hike fast, but that was slow for us.

I brought the packraft because it was a decent size lake, and I wanted the ability to move around on the lake and not be limited by lack of back casting room along the shore. While it did add some weight, I was glad I brought it. It got us access out to the drop off by the inlet, and there was another really nice bay not to far away from our camp that we were able to access w/ the pack raft that we wouldn't have been able to fish very well had we opted not to bring the raft. So even though it added about 7 pounds, it was worth it (IMHO).
View attachment 121254

We got unpacked, got the packraft inflated and started by fishing the drop off along the inlet w/ a olive BH soft hackle. Was just using it as a searching pattern as I wanted to 'check the box' of catching a grayling and didn't care too much about how it happened, just wanted to get one to hand. Didn't take long before the first grayling was hooked.
View attachment 121255

Caught several more the first afternoon, we were mostly just sight fishing along the drop off. The water was so clear (I'd guess I could see 30-40 feet deep) that with the sun out, the fish cruising along the drop off were easily spotted. A cast out in front of their general direction of travel would typically lead to a fish on. It was a freaking hoot.

View attachment 121260

After catching a handful of grayling and cutts, we set up camp and relaxed and did some searching around camp - found a really cool back bay with a channel moving through it that was full from all the water coming from the inlet. There was quite a few fish that were in the channel. We sat for a while, sipping on whiskey watching the fish eat and do what they do.

View attachment 121261
(yes, those are all fish swimming back and forth in the channel).

After that we headed back to camp and rested up. The mosquitoes were out in full force, but it wasn't so bad that I ever really got annoyed with them. They were just always around and on you.

The next day we tried a little bit of everything, dries, streamers, chironomids, etc. It all worked. Everything worked. It was sight fishing heaven.

This fish moved about 15 feet to take the black ant.
View attachment 121256

Thought the bobber community needed to represent, so spent some time with the bobber on.
View attachment 121257

View attachment 121259

Got into the streamer game. Had some fish move a really long way to hit the streamers.
View attachment 121258

The water was so clear it was almost distracting. You could see 100% of the take and the fight, which was really cool. This fish hit at the drop off where it goes from about 10 feet down to 40 feet (quickly).
View attachment 121277
Spent some time stripping nymphs along the drop off.
View attachment 121276

We even got into a few that were in a little bigger size class.
View attachment 121262

The fish really weren't very particular about what they were eating. As long as you got the fly in front of them without spooking them, you had a pretty good chance at catching one. With the exception of the chironomids, it was 100% sight fishing in crystal clear water. The fish would spook if the cast was sloppy, but if your cast was good you'd probably get a look from the fish. We fished on and off for the day, along with some general exploration of the lake in the raft, some swimming and exploring around the camp. Wind picked up a bit in the late afternoon, which was a nice short reprieve from the mosquitoes. Went back out in the raft and caught a few more that evening. Had a fantastic meal, drank some whiskey by the fire and hit the sack, overall it was a pretty epic day.

View attachment 121288

Next day we got up, ate some breakfast and packed up for the long hike home. It ended up going a lot better on the way back down because we had flagged our trail on the way up, so it was quite a bit quicker getting back out. Even the long stretch of bushwacking didn't suck as bad on the way down.
View attachment 121263

All in all, while it was a fantastic trip. While the hike up had long stretches that wasn't that great, there were portions of it that were fantastic. The view from camp was pretty slick (below), and the fishing was fantastic. The fishing was so good it got to the point where I felt like I'd had enough and was completely content going home (which is rare for me). Was a bit of a bucket list trip for me and my buddy, so we're both stoked we got 'er done.
View attachment 121278
I’ve been in there twice, always from the Illabot Rd side. Once via Whale Lk and another via Jordan Lk. Both these routes were brutal 10 hours plus with cliffs requiring ropes for safety.

The grayling were stocked in 1947 and have remarkably resilient. There’s a gentleman from the Udub school of fisheries who lived at the lake for the summer at the lake in a wall tent. He performed gillnet sampling on the grayling for his masters thesis. I believe he got in there by helicopter. That would my choice now if legal. I don’t believe it is.

The inlet stream provides perfect habitat for spawning grayling. It’s a remarkable ecosystem that wouldn’t sustain much pressure but given it’s remote inaccessibly, it should remain the alpine jewels that it is.
 
How did I miss this thread when it was posted? BEAUTY! What a delightful looking trip.

Grayling are on my bucket list to catch someday. I know they aren't exactly difficult on the fly. But it's more that I want to get somewhere that has them, and that's nowhere particularly close to me (as far as I know).
 
Grayling are on my bucket list to catch someday. I know they aren't exactly difficult on the fly. But it's more that I want to get somewhere that has them, and that's nowhere particularly close to me (as far as I know).
This is how I feel about West Slope Cutts.
 
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