Sure thing, no problem.
On a high tie, both the belly and wing are on the same side of the hook (non eye side), with the belly under the wing.
On a standard clouser, the belly is tied along the hook shank on the eye side.
SF
Coho from the beach fly suggestions
- Thread starter Gary Knowels
- Start date
Sure thing, no problem.
On a high tie, both the belly and wing are on the same side of the hook (non eye side), with the belly under the wing.
On a standard clouser, the belly is tied along the hook shank on the eye side.
SF
Lately I’ve been tying on 18 mm shanks instead of a sacrificial hook, largely because I hate clipping the sacrificial hook at the end and leaving a jagged edge. And because I saw some good beach fishers posting pics of the same. Although to be fair others swear up and down that the clipped hook edge doesn’t matter.
And by shanks I mean game changer type shanks if that’s not clear.
The very same.
I feel better about the second one
Now to tie a couple more then some other color combos
Now to tie a couple more then some other color combos
Looks terrific! I need to get to tying too.
So is that about the length (3”) we want for the migratory silvers next month?
Definitely agree with @KFCDAVE on getting brass eyes like Real Eyes Plus or Psuedo Eyes. The lead eyes sink well, but aren’t nearly as durable as the brass eyes and the paint on them is shit. Chances are you’ll ding the beach on your back cast like everyone else does and nobody likes a one or no eyes clouser. 
I try to carry stuff in my boxes from 2-4”. The small stuff covers when there are a lot of small, firecracker herring around. 3” is a good average size pattern. When fish are inhaling herring, it’s always worth having some standard, non stinger patterns in your box.
SF
I try to carry stuff in my boxes from 2-4”. The small stuff covers when there are a lot of small, firecracker herring around. 3” is a good average size pattern. When fish are inhaling herring, it’s always worth having some standard, non stinger patterns in your box.
SF
A couple standard and a couple more stinger. I keep mixing up the order and/or location of materials on accident and not realizing it until too late, but I'll get it dialed in eventually.
Another shank option are waddington shanks. The articulated shanks and cut hooks work great but I prefer the flat/uniform trying surface afforded by the waddington.
Edit: Another thing I played around with last year and this year are mono snelled stingers versus braid loops. I do not love how braid eventually droops. You loose the ability to swap out the hook but usually by the time that’s needed my flies are trashed anyway. Debating doing some tube type flies as an option this year too.
Edit: Another thing I played around with last year and this year are mono snelled stingers versus braid loops. I do not love how braid eventually droops. You loose the ability to swap out the hook but usually by the time that’s needed my flies are trashed anyway. Debating doing some tube type flies as an option this year too.
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This season I have just been tying a short length of 30 pound mono to the hook with a snell knot, and tying that to the end of the waddington shank with a uni. Works great, and easy to replace the hook and the mono when they wear out. My flies are all synthetic, so they last a long time.
I knocked the dumbbell eyes off of a couple of closures while the rest of the fly remained in good condition. I was exploring why and came up with a few ideas:
1) stop hitting rocks with my backcast
2) use more wraps of thread and SHHAN
3) 8/0 uni thread isn't strong enough (it was the only spool of chartreuse I had)
Mad a few adjustments and restocked the flies I ruined last time out. We'll see how they do tomorrow in MA9
1) stop hitting rocks with my backcast
2) use more wraps of thread and SHHAN
3) 8/0 uni thread isn't strong enough (it was the only spool of chartreuse I had)
Mad a few adjustments and restocked the flies I ruined last time out. We'll see how they do tomorrow in MA9
Are you using lead eyes? The lead ones are really fragile and don’t survive too many back casts hitting rocks. But the brass ones are very durable.
I've got some of both and lost both types. It looked pretty clearly like the figure 8 thread wraps broke releasing the eyes, not like the eyes broke and fell off.
8/0? Dang man, save that for trouts..... Even on my little stuff, sometimes I find 140 denier (I'm a Danville waxed fan) to be too light...210 works for everything but can add bulk quicker than you may want.
I've also found that adding some glue after tying in the eyes helps durability for me tremendously.
Here’s what I do on my dumbell eyes: Wrap a few wraps of 210 around them and get them straight, super glue top and bottom of the eyes, more wraps on top of that, and then when I wrap the diamond braid on the body I wrap it around the dumbell eyes and then UV resin on top and bottom of the eyes. I haven’t had one of my flies lose its eyes this season. Hope this can help! (Flies look great by the way!)
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Yeah I've been using 140 and 210 for everything else since I already had those colors, just that chartreuse.
ah, gotcha. lately, I've been having issues occasionally with some 140....haven't figured out if it's just a slightly more aggressive tying style or nicking the hook or there being a nick on my bobbin (most likely culprit) but I've been having no issues with the black 210 stuff I've been using for my more recent carp things (probably similar sized hooks/eyes to what you're tying. I use 210 for ALL of my bucktail work, so by default it's usually on one of my more used bobbins.
I just found one of my bobbins with a nick after popping thread a couple of times, that was a disappointment.
I used to only tie trout stuff, mostly smaller dries and nymphs for small streams on a 3 weight or SRC. Getting into bigger stuff now and trying to make do with what I already have on hand and avoid buying more materials.
I like to use fine mono thread for attaching the eyeballs. Do some wraps to set the eyes, then add super glue on the top and bottom of the eyes, making sure the area where the eyes meet the hook shank is well coated. A bodkin or toothpick are helpful for doing this.
I then put some more wraps over the super glue.
Add a bit more super glue on top of the eyes, then add a short piece of flat diamond braid over the eyes, securing it well in front and back of the eyes. I also do some helicopter wraps to really tighten things down as well as a couple of wraps each way over the diamond braid. Since I’m using mono, you can’t see those wraps over the braid. Once the fly is finished, I put a coat of UV or SHHAN over the braid. I haven’t lost any eyes or had them come loose in years.
As far as 8/0 thread, I use it on nearly every local salt flies I tie. I like how little space it takes, rarely breaks when tying, good color selection and its going to get coated with either UV, super glue or SHHAN so no worries on my part about it failing. The goal is to try and make as durable as possible beach flies which take a beating over time, thus the reason for all the glue, hardener or cure. Just not a fan of thick thread.
SF
I then put some more wraps over the super glue.
Add a bit more super glue on top of the eyes, then add a short piece of flat diamond braid over the eyes, securing it well in front and back of the eyes. I also do some helicopter wraps to really tighten things down as well as a couple of wraps each way over the diamond braid. Since I’m using mono, you can’t see those wraps over the braid. Once the fly is finished, I put a coat of UV or SHHAN over the braid. I haven’t lost any eyes or had them come loose in years.
As far as 8/0 thread, I use it on nearly every local salt flies I tie. I like how little space it takes, rarely breaks when tying, good color selection and its going to get coated with either UV, super glue or SHHAN so no worries on my part about it failing. The goal is to try and make as durable as possible beach flies which take a beating over time, thus the reason for all the glue, hardener or cure. Just not a fan of thick thread.
SF
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