Bow Anchor Mount

Old406Kid

Old406Kid

Legend
I'm looking for an extended anchor mount similar to this for my mod vee boat.
I've searched Dierks and others but haven't found one with that much reach.
I run this 25# river anchor when I'm on moving water so it's a pretty good pull plus the diameter in itself requires a longer arm to clear the hull.
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Any suggestions or sources?
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Sorry for the grainy pictures.:(
 
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This one works for my 25 lb Columbia River anchor. There is a roller on the front. Hope you are doing well. Mark

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I have two LeeLocks that I purchased last summer for my 15' Klamath modified v-hull. Really like them.

But, I'm using them for 25# pyramids. So, not as large a diameter as your anchor. The owner, however, may be able accommodate your needs.

BTW, that is a LeeLock pictured in your photos. Looks like it might be one of Brian Chan's boats.

Cheers,

Bryan
 
My Modified-V boat came with Dierks. It was too short so I sent it back to the manufacturer and he welded in an extension piece of. Great service.

I then replaced the bolt in n jam cleat with a LeeLock rope lock. It’s the same hole pattern.

Best of luck
 

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Bryan said:
I have two LeeLocks that I purchased last summer for my 15' Klamath modified v-hull. Really like them.

But, I'm using them for 25# pyramids. So, not as large a diameter as your anchor. The owner, however, may be able accommodate your needs.

BTW, that is a LeeLock pictured in your photos. Looks like it might be one of Brian Chan's boats.

Cheers,

Bryan
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Bryan, you nailed it. I first noticed these on Brian's G3 as well as Phil Rowley's and Jordan Oelrich's boats. Both Phil and Jordan said they had them custom made so I didn't bother Brian. Maybe I missed it but didn't see anything similar on the LeeLock site.
 
Jeff Dodd said:
Here is a photo
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Jeff, that's as close as you can get to what I want. I did more snooping last night and found that Fisherman's Marine sells individual Dierks parts soI ordered a rope cleat and nose pulley for 75$ shipped. We have an aluminum supplier that sells small pieces/remnants of various extrusions cheap so I'll go through their bins for the arm and some flat plate to mount it. Then it's twist my fabricators arm to weld it up. All in all I should be in it for 125$ or so.
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In retrospect, I like the LeeLock rope cleat better for safety reasons but I have a bow cleat similar to your's for extra security.
I also need to make it easily removeable so it doesn't interfere with my cover.
 
Old406Kid said:
Jeff, that's as close as you can get to what I want. I did more snooping last night and found that Fisherman's Marine sells individual Dierks parts soI ordered a rope cleat and nose pulley for 75$ shipped. We have an aluminum supplier that sells small pieces/remnants of various extrusions cheap so I'll go through their bins for the arm and some flat plate to mount it. Then it's twist my fabricators arm to weld it up. All in all I should be in it for 125$ or so.
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In retrospect, I like the LeeLock rope cleat better for safety reasons but I have a bow cleat similar to your's for extra security.
I also need to make it easily removeable so it doesn't interfere with my cover.
Click to expand...

My pulley does not have a flange, so I pull the anchor inside when I run the boat.

Is there a proven method for running with a pyramid anchor hanging off the bow?

Possibly a leash the anchor rode passes through that is attached to the bow eye? When the pyramid anchor is up tight to the pulley, the leash is tight to the bow eye?

I’m wondering if there is a safe method for this problem. I don’t want the pyramid anchor swinging up and denting my hull, or worse!
 
Jeff Dodd said:
My pulley does not have a flange, so I pull the anchor inside when I run the boat.

Is there a proven method for running with a pyramid anchor hanging off the bow?

Possibly a leash the anchor rode passes through that is attached to the bow eye? When the pyramid anchor is up tight to the pulley, the leash is tight to the bow eye?

I’m wondering if there is a safe method for this problem. I don’t want the pyramid anchor swinging up and denting my hull, or worse!
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All good points...I wouldn't run in rough water or rapids without using the backup cleat. Mine is like this so pretty quick and easy.
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I'm also hoping to get it extended out enough and high enough that I don't have to pull the anchor up on the bow each time like I'm doing now.
 
I just got myself a fancy new anchor caddie for my boat. Then realized I need to figure out how to get this one off. Those screws have nuts on the bottom, and can only be accessed from the small hatch at the bottom of the photo. My arm can barely reach as far as the cleat in there. So I'm going to tape a wrench up to an old 12wt handle and see if I can make that work. (if anyone wants that old roller, lemme know)

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Evan B said:
I just got myself a fancy new anchor caddie for my boat. Then realized I need to figure out how to get this one off. Those screws have nuts on the bottom, and can only be accessed from the small hatch at the bottom of the photo. My arm can barely reach as far as the cleat in there. So I'm going to tape a wrench up to an old 12wt handle and see if I can make that work. (if anyone wants that old roller, lemme know)

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I'm assuming that those are individual nav lights in the picture. Mine is currently a removeable pole so would be well above the height of the anchor mount I'm planning but is currently dead center. My choices would be to off set the anchor, which I don't want to do, or possibly offset the light receptacle. If neither looks clean I'll look into individual lights.
 
Old406Kid said:
I'm assuming that those are individual nav lights in the picture. Mine is currently a removeable pole so would be well above the height of the anchor mount I'm planning but is currently dead center. My choices would be to off set the anchor, which I don't want to do, or possibly offset the light receptacle. If neither looks clean I'll look into individual lights.
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Mine had a center unit with lights. It was an easy switch to individual lights.
 
Even with the Leelock rope locking mechanism, which is easy for me to engage and disengage, yet is secure, I don't run with my 25# pyramid hanging off the bow. I'm less concerned about the rope lock mechanism releasing rope (and yes, I could assure that by installing a cleat as a backup), but I'm more concerned about the potential of the pyramid hitting the hull. It's swing radius suggests it won't do that, but . . ..

When i'm pulling anchor to move to a new spot that is either close or is further away but to which I'll be motoring slow, then I'm comfortable not pulling in the pyramid. Even in those situations, I probably should install and use a cleat as a safety backup. But then, it's just one more thing for anchor line or possibly fly line to find and hug when I don't want it too!!

Cheers,

Bryan
 
Kudos to Fisherman's Marine in Portland. I got exactly what I wanted for what I thought was a fair price in three days.
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I sketched out a plan and should be able to make it clear the existing nav light socket and be easily removeable with just one clevis pin.
 
My doodlings which are subject to change. ;)
If I'm thinking right the angle piece on the bottom left will hook under the vertical part at the back of the bow. One pin near the front shouldn't allow it to move and I can easily remove it should it get dark and I need the nav light. (This pic has been lightened but we were well into dark)
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