Big Sky Hospitality

Bugmeister

Staying Gold
Forum Supporter
I wrote and posted this to that other forum (...) a few years ago, but decided today to pull it and post it here. Couple of reasons why, with the most notable being I realized that I am now the only one in the story who is still alive; revisiting this memory makes me smile.

Chapter 1: A Montana Morning

The other day I had to change a flat tire in the midst of a heavy rainstorm. I was hunched over the spare, cursing the fates - changing a tire in cold slushy rain is not my idea of a good time - when I suddenly laughed. Not sure if it was triggered by the tire, the rain or both, but for whatever reason I found myself thinking back to a summer day many years ago - a summer day in Montana.

Yesterday evening I resolved to settle down with a whiskey and try to capture that Montana memory. Here goes:

It began on a July morning in the mid to late 1980s, which would have put me at about +-10 years old. I probably didn't appreciate it at the time, but 10 was a great age: already passionate about fishing, still blissfully unaware of work (my first job, a paper route, was still a few years away), and old enough to spend summers on the river. Yep - as was the case every summer, I was camped with my Uncle R* and Uncle D* on our family fishing property in MT.

* = Brief note on Uncles R&D: while I won't go into depth on my uncles as I unspool this particular memory, suffice to say they feature prominently in many of my Montana memories, and they can be found in the pantheon of trout bums. Moving along.....

The morning had progressed like countless others during my childhood; waking to frost and the smell of the sage in the meadow, stumbling over from Uncle R's trailer to Uncle D's old VW camper for a breakfast of peanut butter on toast (toasted over a small cooking fire Uncle D had going to brew his coffee), and getting an early start on pestering my uncles on where we were going fishing that day.

With our property right on the river and lots of frontage, we would typically fish our home water at some point during the day, but we also usually mixed in another fishing spot daily as well. Some days it was small water for brookies (brook trout formed one of our key food groups, with potatoes, butter and onions making up the others and breakfast typically featuring the aforementioned PB+ toast). Other days we would hit big water looking for big browns, and on yet other days it was medium sized creeks for a grab bag of wild trout.

But every once in a while, a yen for stillwater would overtake my uncles, and on this
particular morning, my Uncle R strolled over to our campfire and announced we were going to explore a high mountain lake.

Uncle R had been to the lake previously, but it had been some years. He had some notes scribbled in his copy of Konizeski's classic book on MT fishing spots Montanans' Fishing Guide (two volumes - one for east of the divide, one for west). For whatever reason, Uncle R was determined that we should revisit X Lake to see how it was fishing. He noted that during his last visit, the lake had fished well for good-sized trout and that it wouldn't require wading tubes. He had me at "trout."

After we wrapped up breakfast and puttered around the property for a bit, we loaded up our gear and headed out. I could already picture a heavy cutthroat or rainbow hammering my go-to lake fare of woolly bugger with split shot....

A note on our rig: For many many years, our MT fishing rig was a 1976 Ford F-150 4X4 - the trout machine. Dark green, with primer here and there, a camper shell with carpeted bed and a family of mice living somewhere within, the rig was the stuff of legend. Oh sure - top speed was maybe 65 with a tailwind and it got about 6 miles per gallon, but with a quad barrel Holly carb, Rancho suspension and 4 on the floor it was nigh on unstoppable. Some years later I would learn to drive in it, appreciating the ridiculous amount of torque, forgiving clutch and gearing so low you could start it in second gear.

Uncle R said the lake was up a road not too far out of Melrose. According to him, the road was county maintained gravel (oiled down during the summer to lessen the dust) for some miles with a couple of small ranches, then broke off onto a forest service road that was pretty rough, followed by a jeep track of sorts that wound its way up to the lake. With the prospect of no hiking required and not a cloud in the sky, I remember all three of us opting for cowboy boots and going against our standard operating procedure by eschewing rain gear. Those choices would turn out to be meaningful.

To be continued.....
 
That sounds like the road up Trapper creek . It's smooth for a way and then rough and ends at a jeep trail. I drove as far up to the jeep trail. If I would of been on my ATV I would of gone all the way up there. My pick-me-up is two wheel drive on the back wheels. It's not built for mountain climbing.
 
That sounds like the road up Trapper creek . It's smooth for a way and then rough and ends at a jeep trail. I drove as far up to the jeep trail. If I would of been on my ATV I would of gone all the way up there. My pick-me-up is two wheel drive on the back wheels. It's not built for mountain climbing.

You are in the right general neighborhood/region
 
Chapter 2: Melrose

The drive from our property to Melrose seemed to fly by, with me flanked by my uncles in the front seat, Uncle R doing the driving, and all three of us eyeballing the river looking for rise-forms as we wound our way along the river. As usual, I was antsy to start fishing ASAP.

Soon we found ourselves in Melrose.

For those who haven't been....Melrose is a small sleepy village, right on the border between Silverbow and Beaverhead Counties. The Big Hole runs by in braids on the west side of town. It used to have a fair amount of rail traffic, but the rail heyday was already well behind it when we passed through on that summer mid-morning years ago.

Back then, Melrose sported one or two fly shops, but I had never been in one of them - until that morning.

I'm not sure what compelled my uncles to pull up outside the ramshackle building with the fly fishing signage that morning, but regardless of whether it was their love for adventure, or just our constant search for information (god knows we didn't need any fly fishing gear), I found myself trailing after them into the shop.

It turns out they had never been into that shop either, and we looked around with curiosity.

Even as rural 1980s Montana fly shops go, it was tiny. The property on which the shop was situated was your classic Montana-mixed-use: a collection of beat up rigs strewn haphazardly around the property, a small shanty-like retail shop (in this case a fly shop) connected directly to a small shanty-like house, and a somewhat less beat-up 4x4 rig likely owned by the proprietor parked out front.

The interior of the shop was a single narrow room, dark and smelling like an ashtray had been in a fight with a side of bacon.

The interior design theme would be characterized as ragged taxidermy.

When we got inside, we reverted to our classic fly shop visit MO, which consisted of me ogling the fly patterns and gear, and my uncles chatting up the owner and talking about shared acquaintances.

The owner, as it turned out, was a man named Phil Smith.

To be continued.....
 
Chapter 3: Straight Shooter

Phil Smith looked like Hell. Actually, I think Hell would be offended by being characterized as looking like Phil. He had the quintessential broken-down-Montana-cowboy-hard-living look: a look that suggested Phil had spent most of his life drinking and chasing women....and the rest he'd just wasted.

In fairness, though the bloom of youth had long since faded and though the broken blood vessels around the nose and cheeeks, the unfortunate teeth, some hard-won scars, the wrinkles, and the messed up hair made him look a bit like Charles Bukowski in his later years, Phil had a twinkle in his eye, a look of nobility about him, and, we could tell quickly, was really credible about fishing and hunting. Turns out he and my uncles had some mutual friends and acquaintances. That should have come as no surprise, since my uncles seemed to know almost everyone in Montana back then.

The shop was so small, and after all it was located in Melrose in the 80s, that my uncles had to be wondering how Phil was making a living. Finally, my Uncle D asked tactfully, "How is business these days?"

Phil's response made quite an impression. He fingered his beat up hat, grinned, and in a voice ravaged by smoking said:

"For years I drank a half liter of whiskey a day. I lived right on the Big Hole and had a wife and beautiful daughter, but I ignored the fishing and my family in favor of the whiskey and bar livin'. By the time I finally quit drinking, my wife had left me, but the river was still there like it'd been waiting for me. Then my daughter came back to stay with me and help out around the shop.

We don't have many customers these days, but I have some time to fish, I get to see my daughter every day, and as long as I can still shoot straight and stock the freezer in the fall, we make it just fine."

Just then, a woman emerged from the back of the shop and gave Phil a hug. She looked at him with affection and said, "Coffee, Dad?"

We made some more small talk. Phil mentioned that the lake we were heading to was kind of swampy at one end, had some nice cruising rainbows and that the road in was pretty dicey in spots. He also noted that we might be getting thunderstorms later in the day.

My uncles slipped me a bit of money for a few flies and a braided leader. I made my purchase, we shook hands with Phil and thanked him for his time, and we left him sitting in his shop as we headed off to explore X Lake. The weather was warm, with a zephyr just barely moving the American flag hanging out in front of Phil's property.

What could possibly go wrong?

To be continued....
 
And I sit here in anticipation just waiting for more of this story. Quite interesting to say the least.

I did a little driving around in that side of the Big Hole out of Melrose. Headed up toward Grant over around a bend in the road down a grade that was just wide enough for one vehicle. I drove down it at about 5 mph. As I'm kind of scared oh heights.. I was headed to some Charcoal kilns that were used about 100 years ago or so. Was gonna take some pictures, but I never made it there.
 
Don't mean to bigfoot Bugmeister's story. But to hopefully add content- the beautiful daughter's name is Georgia. Amazing blue eyes. Phil had her driving shuttles as soon as she could reach the pedals.
More Phil Smith content forthcoming provided Bugmeister doesn't mind.
 
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Chapter 4: The Lake

We headed out of Melrose, and not too long afterward we turned off onto the gravel road for the the lake.

As we had expected and as Phil had mentioned, after some miles the road gradually turned into....not a road. Rather, it was a high clearance, somewhat steep 4x4 Jeep trail with some boulder sections that looked ugly and a sharp drop off on one side that was not to be trifled with. On the hill that rose off to the other side of the gully, I occasionally glimpsed entrances to old mine shafts, long abandoned. Did Henry Plummer leave his treasure up there somewhere, confident he'd be back for it in due time?

I wasn't worried about the road in - we were in the trout machine, after all, and Willie Nelson was belting out a tune on the stereo - but my uncles did utter an occasional "Jeezus!" and "Oooh" that suggested the jeep-trail in was tricky.

Finally, we arrived at the lake. By the time we pulled up, the wind had freshened and some suspicious looking clouds had just started to form. We geared up, spread out and started to fish in earnest, sensing that we may not be staying as long as originally planned.

My uncles gave me a spot that was fishy looking and easy to cast from, and I went to work, slinging my weighted bugger with my normal mindless zeal. They wandered off in opposite directions around the lakeshore. My uncles didn't need an easy spot to cast from; either of them could snap the antenna off an old car, attach a beat up Cortland line to it and roll-cast a streamer 60 feet. While smoking a doobie, no less.

For a time I forgot my uncles existed. I worked my floating line/weighted bugger along a shelf that dropped off into deep water. Within a few casts, I had a bump that I missed, but that trout was the forgiving kind and he came back for a second pass; I hooked him cleanly and it was game on.

When I got him to hand after a pretty spirited fight, I found him to be a classic "snaky" rainbow trout - the head of a 14" fish grafted onto a skinny 10" fish girth with a body length of 12". Whether the altitude, some overpopulation, scarce food or some combination thereof, he looked a bit like a lot of trout I've caught in mountain lakes over the years.

I released him and kept working the drop off, confident my monster trout was lurking in wait.

During this time, the wind had come up and was gusting. So, too, had some very ominous clouds gathered. I heard my uncles calling me, and realized we were cutting our fishing short to try to get out of the storm. Damn - my monster trout would elude me that day.

We trudged back to the truck, comparing notes along the way. A few fish each for the uncles (dries and buggers) with one decent sized fish for Uncle R. When we arrived at the rig, we hurriedly stripped off our waders (neoprene back then if memory serves - indestructible but non breathable), slid our rods into the back and jumped into the cab.

We broke out the "lunch" (water, and though I don't remember it clearly, most likely a PB&J or bologna with mayo), ate quickly as we listened to the thunder, and then we backed the rig around and started down the mountain just as the first few drops started to knock the dust off the windshield.

To be continued.....
 
Chapter 5: Blow out

We hadn't gotten very far when the rain picked up in intensity. The rain made the trail even more treacherous, and I could tell even my unflappable Uncle R was getting concerned.

We had just navigated a section that would have high-centered a lesser rig when we hit a bump - hard. Something was definitely not right. We slid to a halt and stepped out into the downpour to take a look.

The left rear tire was shredded. It looked like we had a bad run in with a very sharp rock, which, combined with the tires' pre-existing condition (not great), had left us with a blow out.

One of the many great things about growing up with two irreverent, PhD-holding and borderline morally depraved uncles was the opportunity to learn about the lifecycle of a bird species in one moment, and in the next moment being treated to a smorgasbord of foul language the likes of which few kids ever got to hear. On that fateful day, as we attempted to change the tire on a boulder filled jeep-trail during a torrential downpour, I learned "Whorebitch!" - who even knew that was only one word?

In due time, we managed to swap on the spare. We clambered back into the cab, soaking wet and cold, and congratulated ourselves on managing the tire change on a 20 degree angle slope that had enough running water to resemble a strip mine. Sure, the spare was looking a little tired, but at least it was inflated and we got all the lugs tightened.

Our celebration was short lived. Five minutes after we had gotten moving again, the spare blew out as well.

Not good.

To be continued.....
 
Chapter 6: March(ing) Madness

We got out and stood by the rig for a minute, considering our options. The bad news was we were stuck on a narrow trail. The good news was that although we were blocking the trail, we knew there was no rig anywhere above us and we were pretty confident no one else would be foolish enough to be trying to head up to the lake in the Noah-ark-building deluge. Additionally, the thunder and lightning had let up slightly, so the chances of being electrocuted seemed slightly lower.

With no additional spare and with the blown spare tire far too gone to try to drive back down the mountain on it, we babied the truck a few dozen yards further to leave it in an area where we could get it hooked up for a tow (!?!) or get another tire change accomplished somewhat more easily than our last effort. We then killed the engine, pushed our hats onto our heads and started hiking down the mountain, crossing our fingers in the hope that one of the ranches we saw on the way up had someone home.
We were wet. We were cold. We were covered in mud. As a kid, I thought this was pretty much the best adventure ever.

My uncles probably didn't feel that way, but they were both resolute. As we trudged down the trail, they talked about the lake, speculating on patterns and approaches to find more and bigger trout and debating whether to bring up an inflatable to fish it sometime.

The spare tire hadn't lasted long, but as it turns out the hike down to the first ranch wasn't as far as we were privately fearing. The rain also let up. After about 20 minutes, the trail gradually improved to gravel, and in another 10 minutes we reached a driveway header. We marched down toward the ranch, hoping for a telephone.

We were in luck. We not only found a phone; we found that day's first great example of Montana hospitality as well.

To be continued.....
 
Chapter 7 part 1: Montana Rescue Operation

When we walked up to the porch and knocked on the front door of the ranch house, I was a little nervous. Two full grown men and a gangly kid, looking like drowned rats and showing up unannounced on a doorstep in the middle of the countryside. It sounds like the start of a story that involves rock salt and a shotgun...

In actuality, the knock on the door was met with a brief pause, then the door was opened by a smiling older woman.

Turns out the woman and her husband were Montana ranchers through and through; their kids had grown up and were living in Bozeman and Missoula with kids of their own, but the patriarch and matriarch were still running a couple head of cattle and apparently they also had some irrigated acreage with hay not too far down the valley (not riverfront - who can blame us for asking!?!).

I'm a believer that there are good people everywhere in the world. Oh sure, there are dirty ass nymphers too, but.....Where was I? Ah yes - good people everywhere. Though there are good folks spread all across our beautiful world, it is in Montana where my faith in humanity has been affirmed more than any other place.

Uncle R explained our situation, and rather than getting shotgunned or had a door slammed in our face, we were instead immediately invited in. Towels were brought out, and a lemonade appeared for me a moment later.

The couple offered us their telephone, but noted that there would probably be no place in town open - it was late Sunday afternoon by that point - with an extra wheel and inflated tire that would fit our rig. We tried to call the closest gas station/repair shop....no answer. Not a good sign.

Upon hearing about that setback, the husband then offered to drive us all the way into Butte where we would have a better chance of getting a wheel and tire. He noted that he could then drive us up to our truck and help swap out the flat.

As generous an offer as that was, the rancher's work truck looked questionable to be able to make it up the hill to our stranded rig and I suspect my uncles didn't want to burden the ranching couple any more than we had. They were pretty elderly.

As she shoveled a plate of cookies in our (mostly my) direction, the rancher's wife asked, "Any chance you have a friend in the area with a late model Ford who might have a spare that would fit your truck?"

My Uncle D shook his head, but Uncle R looked up and said, "Lets call Phil Smith."

"Oh sure. Phil's number is in the phone book. We've known the Smith family forever."

If you'll recall, we had only met Phil for the first time that morning. Phil had seemed like an ok guy, but he also looked like he'd had about 1000 years of hard living and physically he looked pretty worn out.

I'm not sure what my Uncle expected when we dialed Phil, but I know Phil Smith's actions that day left a profound impression on me.

To be continued.....
 
Chapter 7 part 2: Montana Rescue Operation cont.

Uncle R dialed the number listed for Phil in the phone book, and after a few rings Phil answered.

"Phil, this is R L. We met this morning."

"R how was the fishing up there at X Lake?" Phil asked, then laughed "You guys get s little wet up there in that squall?"

"We did. Fishing was OK. Phil, we we ran into some trouble on the way out. Blew two tires, and we had only one spare. Our rig is stuck up a few miles down from the lake. By any chance you know anyone in town with a wheel and tire we could buy or borrow?"

"That road is the shits, that's for sure. I hunted up there last year and remember thinking the road was getting worse every year. You had a Ford F-150 right? What kind of tires you have on it?"

My Uncle told him our tire size.

"Hang on a minute. I'll be right back."

After a few minutes had passed with silence, Phil returned to the line.

"Where are you calling me from?"

R relayed that we had hiked down to the Brown's place off the county road, and they were nice enough to let us in to use the phone.

"Tell em I said hello. Better yet, I'll tell em myself. I have a good tire and rim that will fit your rig on one of the trucks at my place. I'm gonna pull it off, run by the station to get a bit more air in it, then I will bring it up to you. I will pick you up at the Browns, run you up to your truck and we'll get you fixed up. We should be able to get off the hill before dark."

My Uncle tried to talk him into some lesser act of generosity, but I think we were still a bit in shock at Phil's selflessness. After a few more words, we hung up. Phil Smith was coming to the rescue.

We relayed the news to the rancher's wife. She noted that Phil's family had been living in the area forever. Apparently, Phil's mother was still living somewhere not too far away, and she was such a nice woman it was no surprise Phil was a good person as well. Cowboy wisdom, but it seemed to bear out.

We petted the family dogs, grazed on more snacks and made small talk while we waited for Phil.

To be continued....
 
Chapter 8: In Memoriam

After an hour or so, Phil pulled up outside the ranch house. We thanked our hosts and piled into Phil's 4X4.

The ride went quickly: Phil smoked nonstop, had musical tastes that revolved around outlaw country, and gunned it uphill like a bat out of hell.

We got up the mountain, and when we had gotten close to where we left our truck, Phil powered through a sphincter clenching multi-point turn on the side of the ridge so he could get his truck pointed back downhill. With that maneuver complete, he backed up to our rig, hopped out and helped us swap his wheel and tire for ours.

The rain had completely let up by that point, and the tire swap went quickly. When we wrapped it up, Phil wouldn't hear of any attempts to pay him for his tire, his time or even for gas money. He claimed to not even want his wheel/tire back, beyond "try to get it back to me by Fall." Phil shook our hands, said he'd take it slow on the way down just in case our rig or his ran into trouble, hopped into his truck and fired up the ignition and the Waylon Jennings.

We followed Phil all the way back to the highway and through Melrose, waving goodbye to him as he turned into his property and we continued back to our place.

A few days later, my two uncles drove back to Melrose. In the interim since our misadventure, we had gotten our tires fixed and pulled Phil's back off. My Uncle also invested in a second spare that we kept in the truck ever after.

When my uncles asked me if I wanted to head into Melrose with them, I declined in favor of a long multi-hour hike and fish downstream from our place. When I returned late that afternoon, they gave me a new fly line (my first new line! Court land 444 W5WF in green), some leader and tippet materials, a bunch of flies and a new net.

It turns out when they returned the tire to Phil, they did the only thing they thought they could to say thanks to Phil beyond additional handshakes - they sat down, bullshitted with him for quite some time, and then before leaving bought damn near all his stock, with the excuse that they had guests coming in and needed to outfit them. My Aunt and cousin would later get Winstons for Christmas, my Uncle D grabbed wading boots and waders, and my Uncle R grabbed a reel, a line and a bunch of stuff for me.

At least for that month, Phil didn't have to shoot straight to pay his rent, stock his fridge or keep himself in Marlboros.

I never saw Phil Smith alive again. About a year or so after he came to our rescue on that jeep trail, I heard Phil used a shotgun to take his own life.

I regret never fishing with Phil, or having him guide me on a hunt. I'm betting he would have been a great guide; the great ones always have a generosity of spirit that can't be taught.

Phil is gone, but he lives on for me as a paragon for Montana and Montana hospitality. Sometimes I'll be caught out in a rain storm, or rolling down a two lane highway, or - as was the case last week - changing a tire, and suddenly I will find myself thinking about Phil Smith and all the other Montana spirits out there in the Big Sky country.
 
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Quite a few of us Butte boys who frequented his shop attended the service for Phil in Hamilton. In honor of his everyday garb those who had red shirts wore them.
I want to say he did have a red shirt on when we saw him, but don’t remember. Good guy, and boy did he know the area well.
 
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