7 Day Solo Smith River Float

I launched May 15th for 7 wonderful days (ok, some days weren’t wonderful) on the Smith. My trip was originally scheduled for May 13th, but I got lucky and was able to reschedule it for two days later (low water and some family issues). Afterwards, I planned to check out the Missouri for a few days but my 10 day MT trip somehow turned into a month and a half trip! I got home about 36 hrs ago - only to re-pack and leave for my next trip tomorrow. I think I will be home in early August. Or maybe not…

My Smith trip wasn’t originally intended to be a solo trip but it ended up that way when people couldn’t go and/or backed out for a variety of reasons: very low water, predicted bad weather, health, work, etc. I knew that one way or another, I was going even if it meant a solo trip. I have floated it before so I knew that it was within my abilities plus I am happy with my own company so I was totally comfortable with it being a solo trip. In the end, I had a great trip with no mishaps and I really enjoyed the solitude.

I launched at 138 cfs (which is really low). I took my 11’ cat with 18” diameter tubes for the added floatation. The weather bumped up the flows to about 240 at the take-out. I packed as light as I could but didn’t skimp on safety equipment and back-ups of critical gear. I hadn’t planned on hauling my boat on the car but @BDD stopped by just when I’d finished rigging it (to make sure I had everything) and he graciously helped me load it. Actually, he basically bench pressed it as I got in the way, lol!

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I spent the night at the Helena boat inspection station so that I could get inspected when they opened at 6 am. I got some special swag for being the first one in line!

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Since I had a short 4.5 mile float the first day, as suggested by the rangers, I arrived just as the last group was about to shove off. It was a beautiful day about 70 degrees with light W.

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I was often joined by wildlife, like these elk at my fist camp, but luckily I was never visited by bears (and I took all the appropriate precautions).

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The weather was good for the first half of the trip, with highs in the low 70’s. The caddis hatches were thick and fish were caught. I planned shorter days in the beginning of the trip so I got lots of fishing time in and enjoyed the gorgeous scenery.

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I also enjoyed the solitude and especially enjoyed slow starts in the morning. I am a night owl and river trip schedules always seem to get controlled by the early birds. So, I savored being on my own schedule and being able to relax by the river with an unhurried cup of morning coffee. I could fish the camp water before the other boats came through and then load my boat at a pace that ensured that nothing was forgotten and everything was loaded properly. I also kept things simple so setting up and packing up was easy. Here’s my floating “backpacking” style kitchen. I only used dehydrated food (PackIt Gourmet) and enjoyed the simplicity. I filled up with fresh water at springs when I could, using gallon jugs to reduce carry weight, and only had to drip-filter water once.


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Most of the campsites were so gorgeous, it was hard to leave in the morning. Here’s my tent hidden/sheltered in the trees at one of my favorite camps:

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Because the river was so low, bigger more heavily laden rafts had problems and most found themselves dragging their boats frequently. I only dragged twice, both times when I wasn’t paying attention to the channel. Most of the time, I could avoid dragging by shifting my weight forward and “Fred Flinstoning” it or just getting off the seat and walking inside the frame for a few feet. Often, when I arrived at camp, I found free firewood bundles, off-loaded by a raft that was tired of dragging through the shallows!


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to be continued…
 
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The first half of the trip was wonderful with warm temps and comfortable sleeping weather. While there are some cabins and meadows along the way, I really enjoyed the canyon section and took my time to soak it all in - and fish!

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Since we recently had a thread about the most scenic latrines, I couldn’t help but take a few photos of some of the gorgeous placements of the open-air latrines. This is the last year that they will be in use; starting next year, all waste will have to be packed out (like on all other permitted western rivers). Here are a couple up on high benches above camp. One definitely didn’t want to wait too long before making the long walk up to these latrines, lol.

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Speaking of latrines, I knew before leaving that halfway through the trip, the weather was going to go in the toilet. 50 mph winds with higher gusts and snow were forecasted. I was lucky to find a sheltered spot in the lee of a small bench and used as much vegetation and roots as anchors as I could, covering the tent with a spare tarp to keep it dry(er). I also managed to rig up a covered kitchen with an oar, cam straps and a tarp; thanks to huge rocks over every stake, it even managed to survive the wind. I purchased the blue tarp at the ranch store a few hours before and was glad for my last minute purchase! I awoke to snow that lasted until about 2 pm so I just hunkered down, safe and warm in my sleeping bag. When it stopped, I broke camp quickly and then had a 12 mile row to my next camp, all of it against an upstream wind. I arrived at camp with just enough daylight left to set up.

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I was joined at my last camp by a nice young man who was also solo and was pulling out a day early due to the weather. He was a Gallatin River raft guide and from my home state and we had a delightful evening visiting around a campfire. In the morning, a gal in an IK was sure glad to have a raft guide on hand when she got stuck on some rocks. He executed a perfect throw and quickly pulled her off the rocks with his throw bag.

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to be continued…
 
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The last evening had been cold and crystal clear and in the morning, everything was coated in a thick layer of frost. I took as long as I could to let everything dry before packing it up but alas, between the snow storm and then the frost, I found myself packing up lots of wet gear. The weather was cool but mostly sunny and on the river, I took my time, stopping to fish frequently. The scenery changed from canyons to ranch land and I said hello to lots of cattle and sheep.

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The next thing I knew, I found myself at Eden Bridge at 6 pm and much to my surprise, lol, no one else was there! I managed to get the frame on my roof by myself and cringed when I had to load all the wet gear in the rig as I knew that I would have to dry it all out.

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When I got a signal, I had a text from the young man who had shared my last campsite. He’d scored a site at Holter Dam and invited me to join him. I was grateful to be able to just head there and know I had a place to crash - and a place to dry and sort gear the next day. It looked like a yard sale and it was 5pm before it was all dry and ready to be packed up.

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Besides the weather, the other reason my new friend ended the trip a day early was that he had just been hired to be a new fly fishing guide. His wife was home hard at work and he felt guilty that he wasn’t on the river pre-fishing before the season. He decided that I might know a thing or two about fishing and invited me to pre-fish the Madison with him. That connection led to me meeting a guide buddy of his who invited me back up to pre-fish the Missouri with them for 3 days. Somehow, those 3 days turned into 6 weeks on the Mo and lots of new friends but that is a fishing story for another day.


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PS. I didn’t take a single fish pic on the Smith as I find it hard to responsibly get a good photo when I am by myself. YMMV. Next time, maybe I will bring my photo/landing platform and get some pics.
 
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That was so cool. Thanks Sue!
 
Way to network Sue! What a couple of cool dudes you became acquainted with. Thanks for sharing your story and the pics. Glad you had a very good time.
 
You must have lost my number.
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But this is great and I'm not surprised that you made friends. Montana has some of the nicest, most decent people you'll ever meet.

Very cool.
 
You must have lost my number.
JSDFwlvf_o.gif


But this is great and I'm not surprised that you made friends. Montana has some of the nicest, most decent people you'll ever meet.

Very cool.
I thought about sending you a PM when I was on the Mo but on any given day, I honestly couldn’t say how much longer I would be there. Everyone kept asking and my answer was pretty much the same “until I leave”! Next time I’ll try to plan it better.
 
Sue appears to have been born for retirement! She is very very good at it.

Troublemaker that I am I encouraged both her and Krusty to hang it up and live the good life. Both did and now their lives appear to be immeasurably better.

Mine too as now I get to fish with them far more often
 
Wow! Awesome trip & report!
 
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