I hit the bad spots with a wire wheel. Mine mainly had surface rust (it lived in Eastern Oregon most of its life). You could sand or media blast it if its bad. I've used Master Series paint to coat rusty frames on vehicles and it seems to work really well. Its the original formula for Por-15 which also works well.
1982 Clackacraft
- Thread starter Irish11
- Start date
I was lazy and used Rustoleum rust remover. Sprayed it on and waited a half hour before hosing it off. Applied the Por-15 paint which states that it can be applied to rust. Two coats produced a hard finish and then applied their top coat for UV protection. Will see how long it lasts. I live in Eastern Washington so the trailer doesn’t see a ton of moisture.
Of course it floats; it’s a Clack. Everyone in the front looks happy and I like the life jackets. Mark
Por-15 is a new one to me and something I will likely use to stop rust on the painted trailer I haul my pram around on.
You and I live east of the Cascades where we don't see a ton of moisture but WSDOT and every other municipality we tow our rigs through use a variety of deicing products on the streets/highways (Ephrata uses that lovely white stuff we season food with). My nice white painted trailer and the wheels lost their nice white coating with rust spots appearing everywhere the paint surface was dinged, especially the wheels. I used "Total Solutions" on the wheels and on the trailer to stop the rust (it has sort of worked), but the top coat (Rustoleum spray paint) on the trailer sucks and needs to be redone.
Por-15 is expensive so time will tell if it is worth it. I brushed it on and for the most part it leveled out and one quart was enough to put two coats on the trailer with a little left over. Don’t get it on your skin. I wore gloves and still got some on myself but It wore off after a while. Also don’t leave any on the top rim of the can when you put the lid back on or you won’t be able to get the lid off next time. There are quite a few YouTube videos about using the product. The stuck lid was one.
Por-15 and Master Series are very solid choices for frames. They were designed to coat steel bridges and structures that are out in the weather all the time. Good point on not leaving any on the lid, it will seal them for sure, haha.
Got back out on the water this weekend. After some adjustments rowing seems way easier now, so thats good. I do have a question about oar lock heights. The boat is a high side. When rowing, to get the oars fully out of the water I keep rubbing the top of my legs with the handles. Does anyone have advice on oarlock risers to put in there? The locks have a very long shaft and I feel like a puck spacer could be added to the top to raise them up about an inch. Would this be a bad idea?
Picture of it in action as a reference.
Picture of it in action as a reference.
not at all, installed higher oarlocks (I'm 6'3) on my old High Sides Clack, which took the oars off my knees and provided a better 'dip' angle, so a puck spacer shold do the job.
Great pic!.
Hey guys what is a puck spacer and how does it work?
@SurfnFish would someone like Sawyer or Koffler carry the higher oarlocks you mentioned?
Thanks for the help/advice.
Bob
@SurfnFish would someone like Sawyer or Koffler carry the higher oarlocks you mentioned?
Thanks for the help/advice.
Bob
Another vote for Por-15, used it on exposed galvanized structural steel after welding. Much tougher and thicker than Rustoleum type paints.
Thanks for the info. I'm 6'2 and I think that would make a difference. Looks like Wille and a few other places carry kits to adjust them.
It was a good day out on the water (floated from Downtown Snohomish to Lowell park, about 6mi) and have to admit the water was a lot slower than I expected and now my arms are a bit sore. But everyone involved had a good time at least. It was good for practicing strokes, ferrying, etc. Cannot wait to get it out on some moving water, haha.
Debating changing boats to a 2005 WF. The 1982 is a great boat, but is missing a few things I think we would like to have. Walk around storage seats front and rear would be a lot easier for our dog (and for us/my parents), turns out 90lbs of dog jumping over the seats to move around causes the boat to shift a decent amount, haha. Also raised oar positions and a rear casting brace would be nice.
Anyway, the 2005 is not bad, but the bottom does not look great. I talked to PNW Fiberglass and to sand down what looks like wetlander or something and go back to gel coat isnt cheap. I was wondering people on here's thoughts on how bad the bottom looks in the two photos below. I was thinking of sanding it, MarineTex or gel coating the surface, then Wetlandering it. Or should I keep looking?
Anyway, the 2005 is not bad, but the bottom does not look great. I talked to PNW Fiberglass and to sand down what looks like wetlander or something and go back to gel coat isnt cheap. I was wondering people on here's thoughts on how bad the bottom looks in the two photos below. I was thinking of sanding it, MarineTex or gel coating the surface, then Wetlandering it. Or should I keep looking?
Looks decent. Mine had some chunks missing from the chine where the fiberglass mat was exposed. PNW Fiberglass did new gel coat on mine and they did a great job. If it were me I would use it as is and sell it when you are ready. Doubtful you could recoup the cost of having it redone.
Great stuff, well done, thanks for posting.
I switched my High Side out for a 2005 'Standard' and found it ran shallower and was more manuverable.
That bottom is just showing normal use scrapes, easy to fix...sand with an orbital, clean, lay down two coats of Sea Hawk Tuff Stuff High Build Epoxy Primer, followed by two coats of bottom paint, Rustoleum Boat Bottom a good one and reasonably priced.
My 85' Clackacraft Magnum looked just like yours when I picked it up, like this when finished. When I sold it a decade after refinishing, it still looked great.
Sounds like its nothing to run away from. Just maybe something to negotiate into the price. I need to go look at it in person, but it was a 3hr drive away so I wanted to get my research in on what I need to do before I get there.
@Eastside PNW Fiberglass did an awesome job on the interior of my 1982, looks brand new. I was going to tackle the bottom at some point too, but figured like you said I could just use it as is. It doesn't need to be a pretty boat, it just needs to float and work, haha. The 2005 I am looking at I feel the same way about. It would be nice if it were pretty, but then I would be afraid to use it.
@SurfnFish That looks really good. Good to know its not too much of a process. I have experience with autobody work, but fiberglass is still new to me. Sounds like thats not too bad, and turned out nice.
@Eastside PNW Fiberglass did an awesome job on the interior of my 1982, looks brand new. I was going to tackle the bottom at some point too, but figured like you said I could just use it as is. It doesn't need to be a pretty boat, it just needs to float and work, haha. The 2005 I am looking at I feel the same way about. It would be nice if it were pretty, but then I would be afraid to use it.
@SurfnFish That looks really good. Good to know its not too much of a process. I have experience with autobody work, but fiberglass is still new to me. Sounds like thats not too bad, and turned out nice.
