Orvis Clearwater 1290 fly rod

Buzzy

I prefer to call them strike indicators.
Forum Supporter
Since I've thrown my name in the hat for a Westport tuna trip next summer, I'm looking at options for gear. A year ago I had a reel perfect for this but sold it, but that's digressing. I wonder about the Orvis Clearwater 12 weight (Orvis to me is quality - but then this is a "low end" rod in their line up). Thoughts?
 

Stonedfish

Known Grizzler-hater of triploids, humpies & ND
Forum Supporter
Pat,
I have a 9’ Loomis IMX 12 wt you are more than welcome to borrow.
Just let me know and I’ll ship it to you when you are ready for your trip.
SF
 

Buzzy

I prefer to call them strike indicators.
Forum Supporter
Brian - thank you! I will keep this generous offer in mind!/Pat
 

Matt B

RAMONES
Forum Supporter
IMHO you don’t need the latest and greatest graphite for a tuna pole. It ain’t exactly a game of subtlety, for the most part. The main thing is to sling the fly out there and have the fish pole not break at the rail, when the battle is usually straight up and down. I cracked a ferrule on my Sage Xi2 12 wt out there, but I bought a Ross Essence 12 wt rod on super closeout, I think from Sierra, for around $80 several years ago, and that rod has hooked and landed plenty of tuna with no issues. Having experienced the Sage breakage, I don’t like heading out there with no backup rod (even though @SilverFly brings like 4) and so I picked up a Cabelas 12wt (forget which model and that’s kinda beside the point of this post) on closeout—Also a fine tuna pole, with nice fit and finish actually.
If you like the Clearwater, I suspect it will work fine.
 

Jake Watrous

Legend
Forum Supporter
I'm sure it would work fine, but I strongly recommend a rod with an extra-long cork grip for when you're cranking them to the surface. I also prefer a short rod--but that's maybe just me.

I believe strongly in trying before buying--even a "low-end" rod. I'm just north of Seattle and am happy to loan you via meetup or shipping any of my rods whenever you want, and reels (Redington Behemoth & Tibor Pacific) and lines (Float or sink) to go with.

7'6" 11/12 G Loomis Short Stix
8'4" 13 Scott Sector
8'6" 12 NFC Iconoglass
 
Last edited:

Matt B

RAMONES
Forum Supporter
I'm sure it would work fine, but I strongly recommend a rod with an extra-long cork grip for when you're cranking them to the surface. I also prefer a short rod--but that's maybe just me.
^^Good advice. If I were going to spend more than say $200 on a tuna rod I’d look into shorter options, but by far the most common and therefore least expensive options tend to be 9 footers. And, they don’t look amazing, but I bought some EVA foam grips to slide onto the rods for foregrips, and they are perfectly functional. I guess I spend way more on the trips than the gear!
 

clarkman

average member
Forum Supporter
Pat,

the Clearwater will work just fine for you...or take someone up on their offer to borrow something. Count me in the shorter rod preference side of things. I especially like shorter for the boatside brawling (like what I have to do with muskies....also with some of those salty critters). My 8'3" Seele glass 12+ wt is an absolute fish tamer (not real fun to cast if you're having to do that a lot, so great for albacore). If you can't get anything else before your trip, you're more than welcome to borrow it although I'd rather not ship it (2pc), but if you're ever in the PDX area, lmk and we can work something out (I also have a Behemoth lined up with a 650gr line you could use too--really nice match for that rod if casting). I also use my 7'9" Steffen glass (listed as a 10/11 but more of a 12) and my 8'6" NFC Iconoglass 10wt (it's closer to an 11).
 

Buzzy

I prefer to call them strike indicators.
Forum Supporter
@Stonedfish, @Matt B, @Jake Watrous, @clarkman, @RichS - I'm grateful to you for your offers and may well take someone up on their offer.

* I too like to try before I buy but that's not easy living in Ephrata and wanting to try a 12 weight and the options are widely variable.
* I didn't think about shorter rods, interesting. I can see where a shorter rod is an advantage (stuck in the mud with thinking a 9 footer is best).
* Glass, huh!

I can't remember what rod Darc Knobel loaned me on a trip we made to Christmas Island; it was a high end Sage, a 13 weight (2009). I could not get that rod loaded with the line, nor could the guide but it bent into the cork when I hooked a small GT.

Matt - "break at the rail"? I like the idea of putting foam cylinder on the rod but did you use this as a softener on the rail itself?

Thanks again, gents. Your responses certainly show comradery in this forum. //Pat
 

Matt B

RAMONES
Forum Supporter
Matt - "break at the rail"? I like the idea of putting foam cylinder on the rod but did you use this as a softener on the rail itself?
Heck no, and I actually don't grab up there unless I feel like I just absolutely have to, I'm tired or the fish is a toughie or whatever. I don't think most rods are really made for that, but they're 12 weights so they can sorta tolerate it. No, "at the rail" is more a reference to when you have the fish close, you have a really short line pulling on that fish to gaff it, the bow of the rod is usually pretty extreme (careful how you're doing this) and that's usually the riskiest bit with a fly rod that really isn't made for getting tuna in, but is made for casting fly lines.
 

rattlesnake

Steelhead
Forum Supporter
@Buzzy I always felt ‘lower end’ rods were susceptible to greater variances in quality. So you may get a rod that is fine or you’ll break it, just depends on the individual rod. So a little bit of a crapshoot but not so much it’s not worth considering. I own a handful of clearwaters and like em all.

I have a Clearwater 1290 and think it’s a nice rod. First time out the top section snapped. Replaced that and I’ve only used it a couple other times and it’s been good. If you’re looking to buy a used one, pm me and we can talk.
 

Divad

Whitefish
Have you thought about having an IconoGlass built or building one yourself? You could pick the colors, grip style etc to really make the experience customized to your liking.

82B46D2A-315A-46AD-B760-65875298A334.jpeg
Maybe varying shades of blue wraps with a metallic silver trim band to resemble a tuna.

But if it’s a one trip sort of think, I would think lending a rod is more applicable.
 

Buzzy

I prefer to call them strike indicators.
Forum Supporter
@Buzzy I always felt ‘lower end’ rods were susceptible to greater variances in quality. So you may get a rod that is fine or you’ll break it, just depends on the individual rod. So a little bit of a crapshoot but not so much it’s not worth considering. I own a handful of clearwaters and like em all.

I have a Clearwater 1290 and think it’s a nice rod. First time out the top section snapped. Replaced that and I’ve only used it a couple other times and it’s been good. If you’re looking to buy a used one, pm me and we can talk.
Thanks, I'll keep this in mind.

Have you thought about having an IconoGlass built or building one yourself? You could pick the colors, grip style etc to really make the experience customized to your liking.

View attachment 96150
Maybe varying shades of blue wraps with a metallic silver trim band to resemble a tuna.

But if it’s a one trip sort of think, I would think lending a rod is more applicable.

I have thought about glass and building a rod but my wrapping skills really have deteriorated.
 
Top