Oar Upgrade for Clearwater

BeavInWashington

Smolt
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Looking for suggestions on oar upgrades for an Outcast Clearwater that I have on order. Cataract KBOs with mini mags seem to be the sweet spot from what I’ve read, but finding 7’ 1 piece models seems tough. Two piece is nice for portability, but I’d prefer a one piece oar if possible. Would a 7.5’ model be too long?

Also, any thoughts on the Outcast Stealth SSTs? They also look like a solid, similarly priced oar. Looking to float the Kalama, EF Lewis, Cowlitz, Clack and Sandy (Oxbow down) with some easier Deschutes sections thrown in for good measure.
 
Have you rowed one of these or a similar craft before?
 
Have you rowed one of these or a similar craft before?
Yes. I have rowed a scout and several water masters (pinned oars of course). Also have rowed pontoon boats and drift boats. Not taking on any crazy water but have never been a fan of cheaper aluminum oars.
 
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I've used those "cheaper" oars for over thirty years with no problem. Every where from the Skeena to the Deschutes and have never felt that my oars were a weak point. If you are in a place in that boat where those oars might fail, then you are in the wrong place.
 
Good to know. I’ve had watermaster oars break mid float before, so my confidence level in those two piece oars maybe isn’t as strong. But I’ll likely roll stock for awhile at least before jumping to a different oar.

Looking for options though.
 
I understand wanting super solid oars that you know you can rely on. I am with WW on this—The standard two piece OSG oars are pretty damn solid. They feel a lot stronger than those little pinned water master oars.
 
I really like the Outcast oars. I come from a significant whitewater background and do appreciate solid gear. However like was said before, in the Clearwater, I don’t believe that the oars are the weak link, rather the patch that holds the oarlock. The lack of having a solid frame also limits the force that can be applied to the oars. In a framed raft the oar becomes the weak link. The reason oarlocks are open at the top is to allow the oar to pop free rather than break. I’m not sure if the patch would tear first or the oar would pop first in the Clearwater.
I really like the portability of the breakdown feature. But what I really like is the weight. Look at the expensive and high quality raft oars out there and you’ll find almost all have a counter weight feature. That’s because they’re heavy in the hand otherwise. Heck the counter weight seeks to achieve the feel of the Outcat oars.
IMHO
 
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Great feedback from everyone. Really appreciate it. I bought the raft for portability and ease of storage. Had preferred the idea of a Freestone but was struggling to find one in good condition at my price point. (Sub $1500). Used the 20% off gift card sale at MRFC to score the Clearwater for $1320 w/o tax. Plus got a bundle of rewards points/credits from it.

Figure if it’s not my jam, I can always find something different and not lose a ton of cash.
 
Everything LBL says is 100% aligned with my experience using the Clearwater the last couple years on easier sections/conditions of the Quilleute system.

If you still want an upgrade, these come in the right length.

 
I've been very impressed with my Cataract KBOs with the Mini Cutthroat Oar Blades. Really nice in shallow water. Mine are 7.5' for my Striker raft. I have definitely put them through the ringer.

And you can't go wrong with the SSTs as well. I know a couple guys that swear by them. Congrats on the Clearwater!
 
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