Ayakulik River, Kodiak Island - Solstice Kings

June 2019

Recently back from a trip to the Ayakulik River on Kodiak Island to swing flies for chinook. A few lessons learned:

1) Weather wins when traveling in Alaska, get used to waiting.
2) Big bears always have the right of way and get the best fishing spots
3) Small flies also catch big fish
4) I want a helicopter

Flew into Anchorage and caught a connection to the busting Kodiak City airport.

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Weather was beautiful. Locals were walking around in shorts and tank tops.

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The next morning, not so much. Got back to the airport and found we were on indefinite fog delay.

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After about 3 hours, the ceiling lifted enough for the small R44 heli to fly under the clouds. The original plan was to have a small plane haul all the gear and a few people to the little village of Akhiok which is closer tot he Ayakulik the shuttle the gear and people from there to the lodge with the little heli which only seats 4 people. Ended up having to do all the shuttles via heli but the lodge added a trip with a bigger Bell Ranger for the gear and supplies. I rode in the R44 all the way to the lodge.

Here's a short video of the heli ride to the lodge and heli/plane back which has some views of Kodiak Island:


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After arrival, we ran down the river close to the lodge to wet a line before dinner. it's a prime sockeye spot with a deep slot that also holds chinook. Unfortunately, it almost always holds bears too.

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Got started in earnest the next morning. The routine was a 60-90min hike upriver early. The group would split with 2 fishing the upper pools with the guide and the other two fishing the lower pools on their own, meeting up at the lodge pool at the end of day. One day I decided to grab a sandwich and just wander around alone which was a little spooky with all the bears but ended up being a really peaceful meditative experience.

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The Ayakulik is fairly small, 70-90 feet across and low gradient so I never had to cast more than my shooting head and 15-20 feet of running line unless I was trying to be sneaky casting and a sharp downstream angle. The wind, however, was brutal at times.

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First fish went to me, a smallish 'jack' which was a good bit bigger than a Washington springer jack...

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I was using a Sage Method 8119 and a Sage Evoke 8-10 with an Airflo 540gr skagit head and a MOW tip of 7.5' floating and 2.5' of T11. I tried a 5/5' tip in a few spots but it was in the rocks a little too much due to the slow current. I used pretty much the same fly all week, a simplified version of my confidence fly for all anadromous fish - "black and blue makes them chew" as Jim Kerr often says.

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Bear poop, half fish bones and half grass. We often saw them grazing like cows.

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Another nice fish...

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Big sky up there with no trees to be found.

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Down toward the tailout of a favorite run I noticed a big roll and eased down into the zone which resulted in a strong tug and a nice chinook.

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A smaller but bright one taken by my buddy on a sparse clouser.

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Saw these guys every day.

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This sow and cubs were often in this area which meant no fishing for kings in the far bucket.

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This was the most tense situation. Most of the bears would move away when they saw you but these two just kept coming down the trail we needed to take to get to back to the lodge. I just moved off into the grass and they walked on by but it was a little stressful.

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Dammit, low holed again...

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View from the lodge with a bear waiting on the heli pad. Pretty sure he won't fit in the R44.

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My last fish of the trip. A bit darker but reasonable size. I had to get up on the back and run him down to keep him in the pool. The bigger fish that went downstream were all lost with one very near spooling event by one of the other anglers.

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Uninvited guest to the beach cookout...

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Wildflowers were blooming everywhere. It was a very different environment than western WA and very beautiful. I really enjoyed just sitting and taking in the quiet, only the sound of the wind through the grass.

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The trip back went according to plan. We took the R44 heli to the Akhiok International Airport and caught an ancient Islander back to Kodiak City. Had dinner at a nice Japanese restaurant in town then back to Seattle the next day.

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Overall, it was a great trip. The fishing was a little slow by the lodge's standards and the river actually closed to catch and release fishing for kings the last day we were there. So we were the only group to fish for them in the lower river this season. I think they said about 1,300 had passed through the weir they use to count sockeye. Still, it was better than swinging flies for winter steelhead in the PNW... Over 5 days I think I hooked 10 and landed 4. Also caught two pretty steelhead and a 20" resident rainbow. The lodge is a family affair run by an extended family from Wisconsin. They were super nice and great hosts. The lodge itself is very rustic but completely comfortable. I never wanted for anything other than the sun to set before 11PM...

http://www.ayakulikadventures.com/
 

Replicant

Steelhead

So, I need to thank you for posting this. It brings back some pretty amazing memories. Oddly enough, my family used to own that spit and the hillside from what is now the lodge. This was back in the 80s, before there was a lodge (obviously), and I was a teenager at best. I had only been there once. The only human inhabitants were a couple of biologists up the river a bit, who lived in a camp tent. I think all they did was count fish at the weir. There were two of them, and I believe they were getting tired of each other. I had never seen so many fish in my life. I'll need to dig around and see if I can find the old photos.
 

brownheron

corvus ossifragus
Very cool! Still tons of sockeye and pinks but chinook were scarce.

The camp at the weir is still there but it's now a small house and outbuilding or two. You can just barely see it on the left edge of one of the photos. It's still manned by two staff in sockeye counting season. My best guess is that they split their time smoking weed and sitting on top of the weir with the clicker counter thingy. They were super nice but I don't think they were 'biologists', more a couple young kids with a really easy and boring summer job.

That weir was fascinating. I spent a lot of time watching myself. There were tons of downstream kelt steelhead that would stack up on the backside waiting for them to open it so they could brave the seal gauntlet and get back to the ocean. I wish our PNW steelhead had such high repeat spawner rates.

It was a great trip and I wouldn't mind going back someday. Fall steelhead would be killer but the weather would be a lottery at best.

The helicopter ride low over the island was a highlight. The damn chopper was smaller than the pilot's truck... And his texting back and forth with his wife about dinner or the kids homework or whatever was a little nerve wracking given we were barely off the deck.

 

Replicant

Steelhead
Very cool! Still tons of sockeye and pinks but chinook were scarce.

The camp at the weir is still there but it's now a small house and outbuilding or two. You can just barely see it on the left edge of one of the photos. It's still manned by two staff in sockeye counting season. My best guess is that they split their time smoking weed and sitting on top of the weir with the clicker counter thingy. They were super nice but I don't think they were 'biologists', more a couple young kids with a really easy and boring summer job.

That weir was fascinating. I spent a lot of time watching myself. There were tons of downstream kelt steelhead that would stack up on the backside waiting for them to open it so they could brave the seal gauntlet and get back to the ocean. I wish our PNW steelhead had such high repeat spawner rates.

It was a great trip and I wouldn't mind going back someday. Fall steelhead would be killer but the weather would be a lottery at best.

The helicopter ride low over the island was a highlight. The damn chopper was smaller than the pilot's truck... And his texting back and forth with his wife about dinner or the kids homework or whatever was a little nerve wracking given we were barely off the deck.


What a great video! Those pilots are truly a different breed. When I was there, I didn't see any kings, but the place was chock a block full of reds. We arrived, via a 190 foot fish processor of my dad's business and anchored a ways off of the spit. I think we had come from Sandpoint (Popoff Island, further down the Aleutians), and were on our way to the city of Kodiak, before going up to Prince William Sound. My dad had acquired the property in a unique way, and had to literally put up signage of ownership and take pictures of the signage on the property to show proof of ownership. Yeah, weird. Regardless, when we anchored, we could see so many fish in the air at one time, that it felt like you could walk across them to get to land. We learned later, that this was a result of closing up the weir, when the biologists were taking a break. Those fish get antsy. I didn't see any bears at that time, but someone found an old gold pan (there were no structures around), and other than the camp tent, there was nothing else. I remember going up to the weir and watching a guy sit there with one of those counters, and just clicking away. My God, what a boring job, but then again, we were working 12 hour shifts with no days off unless we were underway. Just heading, slitting, gutting, scooping the bloodline, sliming, grading, packing and freezing. Talk about monotony. That river was solid fish, though. One of the coolest things, i'd ever seen.
 

Dekartes

Kill Pebble Permanently
Nice report! I helped put in the new runway at Old Harbor, Kodiak. Was a USMC IRT community project. They can land a C130 there now! Pretty damn impressive. I want to go back there and hike from there back to town. I think that would be awesome and give some incredible fishing opps.

I kept a fly rod strapped to my quad and would fish the river at the end of the runway whenever I could. We hiked their back 40 to some 'swimming holes'. Some beautiful small streams. I pulled out my fly rod and proceeded to start landing nice dollies. I want to talk to the village elders and get permission to spend a bit of time in that area. So nice. If you are military Kodiak seems like a no brainer. The Coast Guard base has boat rentals, crab and fish processing, etc. Anyway. This thread is bringing it back to mind that I have another trip to plan. Need more time!
 
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