How do you secure bead chain "eyes" or lead barbells eyes to a hook shank?

[Buzzy]

I'm having trouble keeping bead chain eyes and lead eyes in-place and where I want them to be. I typically build up a thin thread base then figure-8 thread around the shank and eyes, wrap several turns above the shank but below the eyes and give it a few more figure-8's. I add a bit of super glue to this, let it dry then tie the fly. Invariably after use the eyes rotate on the hook shank (hooking a fish might play into this). WTH!? Am I doing wrong?

Thread size? Waxed, unwaxed, a different winding of thread? Super glue type?

 

[G_Smolt]

I do a thread base, a dot of nail polish, set the eyes on the polish, start with 8-10 tight wraps in one direction then switch directions until the eyes are "torqued" back to center. Then I do a few figure 8s around eyes and shank, then some lateral figure 8s over the shank and under the eyes, and I finish with some "post wraps" laterally around the eyes above the shank. Unless I'm dubbing over the wraps, they get more nail polish.

I don't have an issue with eye migration on my flies.

 

[Zak]

"start with 8-10 tight wraps in one direction then switch directions until the eyes are 'torqued' back to center."

I do this, too, and I think it helps fix them in place.

I also use some Locktite blue gel super glue.

 

[FinLuver]

Thread base down, back to middle.
Set eye and figure eight from the get go.
About 6 - 8 times
Then stabilize with the horizontal wraps… over shank/under eye. These wraps are key to stabilizing the whole thing.
Set some liquid head cement, so that t seeps in and finish with some lighter figure eights, especially if not dubbing over. Hit it with another shot of head cement for good measure.

Remember, tighter wraps over the previously wraps will loosen the whole thing. Same with tying in hair wings and creating thread heads.

 

[clarkman]

Edit: looks like this guy beat me to it.

Figure 8s, then locking wraps (under the eye, over the hook shank if that makes sense). Alternate several times, several half hitches then glue (I use Sally Hanson's). Since doing several of the locking wrap/figure 8 alternating, I've never had the eyes come loose.

 

[Northern]

This, more or less depending on weight of dumbbell:
Lay down tight thread base, lock it in with a couple half hitches, then move thread to eye spot.
Wrap around dumbbell once and pull down into place
3-4 fig8s to center dumbbell on shank
2 around shank behind
2-3 around left eye (cocks to one side)
2-3 around right eye (pulls back straight)
3 fig8s
2 around shank in front
2 fig 8s
3 around shank tight behind eyes
2 fig8s
3 over shank/under eye base wraps
2 fig8s
3 around shank tight In front of eyes
Drop of loctite, spread over top, on underside, and down shank
3-4 fig8s over it and a few wraps down shank before it dries

 

[PhilR]

before you tie, hit the shank under the eyes with a file to rough it up a little. that plus a little super glue holds them tight

 

[Chucker]

before you tie, hit the shank under the eyes with a file to rough it up a little. that plus a little super glue holds them tight

But don’t do that if you are planning on using your fly more than once in saltwater, unless it’s an actual 100% stainless steel hook.

Tight wraps with Kevlar thread and lots of super glue works for me.

 

[Yard Sale]

This is how I do it and it has worked well for me.

 

[Stonedfish]

Besides what has already been mentioned, I put a piece of flat diamond braid over the eyes and lash it down on both sides. The braid on top of super glue really helps secure things and makes the pattern look a bit nicer than just thread between the eyes.
I like to use Loctite control gel whatever color braid matches the pattern. I also use fine mono thread.
SF

 

[Wayne Kohan]

before you tie, hit the shank under the eyes with a file to rough it up a little. that plus a little super glue holds them tight

I was watching one of those old PBS tying shows and they had Dave Whitlock on there. He used a file on the hook before very lightly before tying on the mono hook guard. Then hit it with super glue. I have always felt that the spinning eyes issue was due to the thread base spinning on the hook.

 

[rattlesnake]

I do a thread base, a dot of nail polish, set the eyes on the polish, start with 8-10 tight wraps in one direction then switch directions until the eyes are "torqued" back to center. Then I do a few figure 8s around eyes and shank, then some lateral figure 8s over the shank and under the eyes, and I finish with some "post wraps" laterally around the eyes above the shank. Unless I'm dubbing over the wraps, they get more nail polish.

I don't have an issue with eye migration on my flies.

I do the same thing process except I use zap thin at the end (no first dab)