Jon Boat Oar Lock Sockets

plaegreid

plaegreid

Steelhead
Been needing to replace the sockets on my jon boat; anybody have a bead on aluminum ones like this? I've found a ton of steel ones, but don't want to corrode my boat. Could have sworn I found some that were almost an exact match like, last year, but foolishly didn't pick em up, now I can't find them again.
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greenriver said:
question- would there be corrosion with steel sockets if boat is only in fresh water?
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I'm pretty sure it still happens, just not as aggressively as in the salt? The internet has told me that it's both crucial to not mix metals and that it's not a big deal, so 🤷‍♂️
 
It looks like you might have some play there. Could you put an aluminum or nylon insert in there and still have the oar lock fit in the hole?
SF
 
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Stonedfish said:
It looks like you might have some play there. Could you put an aluminum or nylon insert in there and still have the oar lock fit in the hole?
SF
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"some" is doing a lot of heavy lifting there! :ROFLMAO: I've got some nylon inserts, and they work ok. More of a vanity thing than a functionality issue; got the boat from my dad and I'd like her to be back in fighting shape, ya know? She's older than I am by about 25 years, so she's lookin' pretty ok, all things considered.

SurfnFish said:
since you're likely not rowing against heavy river pressure, a set of Allen bros nylon oarlocks?
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The oarlocks I've got, it's the sockets that I'd like to replace!
 
Fourbtgait said:
Typically, if you have a barrier between aluminum, steel/stainless steel, you won’t have corrosion unless the barrier breaks down. IE, a thin plastic insert.
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Something like some 4 or 6 mil plastic? Or perhaps a thin epoxy layer would be more durable?
 
get a couple blocks of delrin; cut a lip deep enough to bolt to transom and drill for your lock? Benefit is you can get a block big enough to adjust the oarlock height if necessary, and it's not going to corrode no matter what you do with it.
 
ptychocheilus said:
get a couple blocks of delrin; cut a lip deep enough to bolt to transom and drill for your lock? Benefit is you can get a block big enough to adjust the oarlock height if necessary, and it's not going to corrode no matter what you do with it.
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Now there's an interesting idea; might be nice to have a little more clearance while rowing...
 
Maybe just lubricate with dielectric grease? If electrons can't flow there won't be galvanic corrosion.
 
You could also get oarlocks that stay on the oars, so when you put them away the oarlocks aren’t in contact with the boat. The corrosion that happens when you are actually using the boat would probably take a lifetime to be noticeable.
 
nwbobber said:
You could also get oarlocks that stay on the oars, so when you put them away the oarlocks aren’t in contact with the boat. The corrosion that happens when you are actually using the boat would probably take a lifetime to be noticeable.
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The locks are actually clamped on to the oars! It's great cuz I can just toss 'em in the car and throw the boat on the roof. I'm looking for the sockets, as 60 years of use has worn them down a bit.
 
I had a 12 foot ted Williams Jon boat when I was a kid. It was amazingly light. Wish I still had it. A machinist might be able to fabricate something pretty cheap. I like the idea of delrin bushings that you can replace. That would cure the squeaky oarlock syndrome.
 
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