Can you weight an unweighted tube fly?

D

downriver79

Steelhead
I've never fished a tube fly but was thinking about giving them a go. If I get unweighted tube flies, can I put a conehead or bead in front of it to get down faster? Coming from a gear upbringing, I'm thinking of something very similar to fishing a plastic worm 'Texas rigged'. Would a tube fly still fish effectively like that? Thanks in advance for any insight any of you can offer!
 
Another option.
Add a rubber bobber stop to your leader. Then add a bead or cone in front of the tube. The bobber stop will keep the bead or cone pinned in front of the tube.
SF
 
The hole size on typical cones/beads is too small for most tubes. They’ll fit over microtubing.

For tubes fished in 12 lb test tippet, I nestle HMH microtubing inside of regular tubes, and leave some microtubing sticking out of the front to accept regular beads.

When fishing heavier 20 lb maxima for salmon, I just slip a worm weight on the line and don’t bother pinning it. Works fine
 
SSPey said:
The hole size on typical cones/beads is too small for most tubes. They’ll fit over microtubing.

For tubes fished in 12 lb test tippet, I nestle HMH microtubing inside of regular tubes, and leave some microtubing sticking out of the front to accept regular beads.

When fishing heavier 20 lb maxima for salmon, I just slip a worm weight on the line and don’t bother pinning it. Works fine
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This is why I moved over to Pro Tubes. They make beads/cones that match their tubes.
 
I like the pro tube stuff too. Used the flexi's for a long time, but they're expensive, and I wanted the hook to ride free. I use the 2.2mm (all the weights and cones fit on this platform) and I jam a non-slip loop (4-5 wraps fits snugly) into the end of the tube and let the hook ride back where I want it. I also like that the protube is softer than HMH, I think it's easier to get the thread to bite in and hold w/o spinning the tube on the mandrel.
WRT weighting a tube I've started balancing them with a small flexi weight on the back of the tube and a small turbo cone on the front, it sinks uniformly like a shank or hook rather than canting -- this is all for steelhead stuff.
 
Stonedfish said:
Another option.
Add a rubber bobber stop to your leader. Then add a bead or cone in front of the tube. The bobber stop will keep the bead or cone pinned in front of the tube.
SF
Click to expand...
I have been experimenting with this for tubes and for ties on hooks. It seems to work great and add versatility and less flys for me to carry. It also allows for different sized beads or cones to control how much weight I want or making things like an egg sucking leech with different color egg.
 
downriver79 said:
You mean just a regular bullet weight? I'm sure I've got some in my bass tackle, but not sure if I've got 1/32. Either way, that's a lot easier to come by than fly tying coneheads or special weights.
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heavier, too. ~ 14 grains is equal to a big lead eye or tungsten bead - it might be a handful on 6 wt spey rod if you’re just starting out. Also a bit much for a lot of steelhead water, depending on where you fish.

I use 1/32 and 1/16 (very very rarely 1/8) off an 8/9 wt spey, for chinook, in non-steelhead water.
 
downriver79 said:
You mean just a regular bullet weight? I'm sure I've got some in my bass tackle, but not sure if I've got 1/32. Either way, that's a lot easier to come by than fly tying coneheads or special weights.
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Easy to find at your SW, Cabelas, etc. I've tried the 1/16th and they work but it gets a bit heavy. Yes the coneheads work as well but I love the worm weights. Bullet weight/same as worm weights
 
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