What's in your vise?

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The Grima
 
Muddler (variation)

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hook - WFC Model 6 #10
thread - SemperFli Nano Silk 30d black
shuck - yarn sunburst
rib - small wire gold
body - Ice Dub pheasant tail hackle - brown/orange
shoulder - pheasant body feather
collar/head - deer hair

Regards,
Scott
 
Caribou Kate Muddler

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hook - WFC Model 6 #10
thread - SemperFli Nano Silk 30d black
shuck - yarn sunburst
rib - small wire silver
body - hare’s ear/Starburst dubbing black
hackle - black
shoulder - mallard neck black
collar/head - caribou hair dyed sunburst (1 Tbs Rit Golden Yellow/1 cup water)

Regards,
Scott
 
adamcu280 said:
Never too soon to be thinking about Baja. I still have a mountain of sardina patterns from last year that never got used but I'll be tying more because why not!?
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This video shows an interesting trick to keep the upper wings from fouling on unweighted versions. I have a hard time keeping mine from fouling so I will be using this UV trick in the future. Just wondering how durable it is.

 
CanoeGuy said:
This video shows an interesting trick to keep the upper wings from fouling on unweighted versions. I have a hard time keeping mine from fouling so I will be using this UV trick in the future. Just wondering how durable it is.

Click to expand...

I like how he uses the Krystal flash with resin to create a sort of spine that keeps the upper wing material from fouing.

On another note, not sure getting UV resin on bare fingers is a good idea. Maybe I'm just paranoid having to deal with similar industrial chemicals at work, but nothing about these "photo initiator" catalysts are good - or even the resins themselves for that matter. I know using gloves is a PITA, but I always wear nitriles when tying with UV cure resins. Vapors also no bueno. Using a respirator seems overkill but adequate ventilation at the bench is just common sense. We all get enough nasty chem exposure as it is, just say'n.
 
Zak said:
Fly refurbishment. This hard wet ant has caught more than a few trout over the last 10-12 years. I should have taken a "before" photo, but all the legs were broken off, the hard coating (SHHAN) was broken apart, and the thread body was starting to unravel. I put it back in the vise, laid another layer of black thread over the body, added new starling legs, and reapplied a few coats of SHHAN.

New life for an old fly!

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Love wet black ants for the high lakes. Retrofit flies always deserve top marks.
 
SilverFly said:
I like how he uses the Krystal flash with resin to create a sort of spine that keeps the upper wing material from fouing.

On another note, not sure getting UV resin on bare fingers is a good idea. Maybe I'm just paranoid having to deal with similar industrial chemicals at work, but nothing about these "photo initiator" catalysts are good - or even the resins themselves for that matter. I know using gloves is a PITA, but I always wear nitriles when tying with UV cure resins. Vapors also no bueno. Using a respirator seems overkill but adequate ventilation at the bench is just common sense. We all get enough nasty chem exposure as it is, just say'n.
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I know. I see a lot of guys touching that stuff - even super glue. I am going to try it wearing gloves.
 
CanoeGuy said:
This video shows an interesting trick to keep the upper wings from fouling on unweighted versions. I have a hard time keeping mine from fouling so I will be using this UV trick in the future. Just wondering how durable it is.

Click to expand...

pretty slick trick...
 
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