Chironomid Tying

Wetswinger

Wetswinger

Beneath the surface of the mud, there’s more mud.
Forum Supporter
I’m asking some questions here, instead of on the tying section, because you are the chironomid experts.
What is the best size of wire to use for size 14 and 12 chironomids? I’m in need of new materials. Is there a source to by an assortment kit? How about the hobby stores? I’m getting more enthusiastic about chironomids after some little success with naked line technique.
Best of all, Dan.
 
I'll take a stab - keeping in mind that it's just my opinion, not the SME. I prefer 'small' Ultra Wire for chironomids for size 12/14 (13 since I like Alec Jackson covert nymph hooks). No clue about Hobby Lobby. Enjoy, Dan!
 
I don't tie them often anymore, but plan to start again. A third vote for the small wire.
You can also double the wire to give your patterns a different effect, say a black thread body with a silver and red rib wrapped side by side.
SF
 
FWIW last year, whilst tying Chironomids, I started using straight edged fingernail clippers for cutting the wire. Keeps those spendy tying scissors sharper, longer. The straight edge allows one to get in closer to the fly body for more precise removal.

Have fun.

Bob
 
Wetswinger said:
Thanks guys. The wire I have is way too thick. I like black also to give them that segmented look.
Click to expand...
One year three of us had hiked 3 km into a float tube lake in BC. A Kamloops native was fishing the lake and gave us a ride out (lifted 4x4, in right, out left). He shared his midge pattern with us and said "wine" coloured wire was mandatory (that's the word he used) for his pattern. I too like his pattern with wine (small) wire ribbing:
Fred Lake chromies.JPG

Body is antistatic bag
 
Whenever I have a question about tying "mids" I always look to YouTube's BCFlyGuys site for an answer - and inspiration as well. :):)
By the way, the new AquaTalon Chironomid hooks are the best I've found. Give 'em a try.
 
Consider using thread as your ribbing if you need thin and small. You can use two bobbins. One for the body color and the other for the rib color. Use the body bobbin to tie in the rib one at the back of the hook. Wrap the body color forward, wrap the rib color forward and tie off.

Another trick is to use white thread. Build the body back. Use markers to color the body. Let it dry, color the thread the rib color you want and wrap it forward.

Just an idea if you want to stay thin.

 
Irafly said:
Consider using thread as your ribbing if you need thin and small. You can use two bobbins. One for the body color and the other for the rib color. Use the body bobbin to tie in the rib one at the back of the hook. Wrap the body color forward, wrap the rib color forward and tie off.

Another trick is to use white thread. Build the body back. Use markers to color the body. Let it dry, color the thread the rib color you want and wrap it forward.

Just an idea if you want to stay thin.

Click to expand...

Good point, Ira. One year up in BCmy friend Keith tied up several white thread bodied midges then colored (coloured) them with his markers, added UV. They looked very cool and caught fish.
 
I wouldn’t use BR on any hook smaller than #12. Small is good down to #14. Below that use X-Small. As others have referenced there are some good ways to accomplish the ribbing effect without the wire. For ASBs I just gap the ASB material to let the color of the thread beneath serve as ribbing…this also makes for more durable flies once I coat with UV resin. Good for 30+ fish whereas the wire and thread flies are usually done after 10+ fish (even with UV resin).

IMG_1734.jpeg
 
Aaron Meredith said:
I wouldn’t use BR on any hook smaller than #12. Small is good down to #14. Below that use X-Small. As others have referenced there are some good ways to accomplish the ribbing effect without the wire. For ASBs I just gap the ASB material to let the color of the thread beneath serve as ribbing…this also makes for more durable flies once I coat with UV resin. Good for 30+ fish whereas the wire and thread flies are usually done after 10+ fish (even with UV resin).

View attachment 139784
Click to expand...
A little gasoline on the fire (;)): Any chironomids without beads? In another box?

A friend of mine finds legal ways to get his midges deep without beads (he's Canadian so WA fly fishing only rules "Anglers may not use: fixed spool reels, bait or WEIGHTS") doesn't apply. He just doesn't like beads, catches lots of trout.

IMG_3648.jpg


I have a few sans beads, a few. In another box there are more beadless midges but obviously I think beads help.
 
Got me with that bait! In WA weights are only prohibited on flyfishing only waters if the weight (bead) is affixed to the line or leader.

As for midges without beads....haven't tied any but I've certainly inadvertently fished them with some success when a fly has been reduced to no more than a bit of thread on a hook by ravenous trout. More than a few times I've replaced a raggedy fly that's catching fish with a identical new fly, only to find they don't want the new version. Scent maybe? I dunno..

Krusty emits all sorts of scents....or so Mrs krusty tells me.

Personally, I like the way a bead helps a chironomid plummet on a lake. Theoretically it keeps a tighter tippet between the fly and the indicator.
 
Last edited:
Aaron Meredith said:
I do have about 15 in the other side of the box, but I haven’t fished them in years. As SurfnFish mentioned, casting and drifting them through the shallows seems like the best application where they would be better than the beads/indicator combo.
Click to expand...
For me, there are lots of places where I fish midges for trout that I don't want a bobber/indicator. I love a long leader/floating line and an unweighted/unbeaded midge. Generally this is a shoal.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top